this morning car wouldnt start so ive spent about 16 hours today tracing possible issues and have not yet gotten lucky. its putting out code 21, theres no voltage to any of the 6 wires on the ignition amplifer when turning engine over. there is clicking coming from injectors but no spark from coil packs. earlier security light would flash fast while turning car over but have since gotten that to stop by unlocking car from passenger side. my best guess code 21 means no ignition reference is reaching the ecu. i am hoping someone here knows why???

 

Are you checking the pins from the ECU prior to the power transistor, or at the coil connectors? You'll either have to replace the ECU or the transistor module.

 

i checked with a test light at the incoming side of transistors. did not show power while engine turning over on any. center wire is grounded.

also what should be shown from each wire coming off cam sensor?
is it safe to say outside holes in plate are injectors and inner ones are spark?

 

U would have to check fsm for clarification. Are all the grounds for the harness clean & secured?

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/ec.pdf

Page 252, have fun testing between the engine bay and the ecu connector.

Or you could just replace the sensor and test it out.

 

Have you proved that the injectors are actually firing by using a noid light? Cause if the injectors are firing then the crank sensor is providing a signal.....upplug the battery and let it set for about 1 hour just in case it's your security system acting up...I had something weird like this on my VG but it didn't even crank....Does the VE have Cam sensors or that wasn' being used then?

 

so after buying a better meter i have discovered that the ignition coil relay isnt coming on. when i jump the switch side of relay car starts right up. both sides of the actual relay have power all the time with only a .2vlt difference between them. i have wire diagrams but it only says wires end up at ecu and a junction connectors that i havnt yet found. is this normal for the W/L AND G/OR wires to both have voltage all the time? an if not why do they? ill post a pic of diagram soon if anyone can haelp?

 

yes the ve has cans with springs, an electric solenoids that vary oil to adjust cams

 

im stuck not sure where problem is beyond ignition coil solenoid

 

solenoid removed


wire diagram (i have all the diagram but it takes forever to scan in hq)


ignition coil relay

 

That you are describing is the VTC solenoids. The answer is yes but the cam position sensor is on the back of the front head.(the round one next to the ignitor module) It is the cam and crank position sensor in one.

 

If you're getting voltage on the GND side of the relay coil, then you've got a bridge somewhere. The coil is grounded via ECU, so the fault is within the ECU itself, or less likely along the wire from the ECU to the relay.

 

that was my thought as well possibly somewhere along the way the factory security system applies voltage to the back side to prevent relay from working.
or ecu is got issues. thank you all for the help!!!

ps: i left relay out an placed jumper across terminals powering coils. i cant find any reason not to since with the key off there is no supply voltage. at same time this may have stopped the voltage loop on the other 2 wires. car actually seems to run better then before. i even got my extra sticky tires to chirp going into second

 

There you go, stick a staple in it

 

When they're firing properly you'll grab second gear everytime!!

 

the prblm is the relay! You know how to read the diagram and test a relay right? You can use a jumper wire for the meantime if it's the relay til you get another relay same color (junkyard has thousands of them). if the contacts aren't closing when applying 12v then there you go.....the relay has a schematic on itself!

 

relay is good its in the lead to computer... its getting voltage when it should be grounded. after jumping relay an still works i have given up tracing the cause. car runs better then ever btw. im told problem is either a fried transistor in computer or factory security alarm. either way theres 12vlts to the ground side of relay socket. i may replace ecu with a fully programable venom unit $300 in the future. factory ecu is $500 used at local yard. an may by aftermarket alarm with direct plug to factory alarm connector. its one or the other know that much.

 

Why not search the classifieds for one. They aren't really that sought after like discontinued performance parts. I've seen stock ecus go for $50.