Engine bay ?
#1
Engine bay ?
I was thinking about can spraying the engine bay black, has anyone done this before , and is there a certain spray can I should buy. I'm doing it the cheap way. Soon I plan to paint the car white or black. Thanks
#6
If you decide to paint it with can spray you'll have to spend a lot of time preping it for it to look good enough to satisfy yourself. There's many undercoats or flat black heat resistant can spray you can use that no preping is required.
#7
"no prep" paints are a joke, not because they dont work, but because people hear "no prep" and think they can just open this stuff up and start spraying...A 20 year old engine bay will HAVE to HAVE some sort of cleaning preparation done to the paint/metal surface before paint is applied...IMO, you might as well do a true prep of the surface if you are going to have to clean it anyway...
#8
"no prep" paints are a joke, not because they dont work, but because people hear "no prep" and think they can just open this stuff up and start spraying...A 20 year old engine bay will HAVE to HAVE some sort of cleaning preparation done to the paint/metal surface before paint is applied...IMO, you might as well do a true prep of the surface if you are going to have to clean it anyway...
#9
#11
Don't pressure wash in there, your just putting water into an area where water was likely never there. ie. RUST!!!!!!
The best all purpose cleaner is Regular Gasoline. Wear safety glasses and and a respirator so the fumes don't bug you. Make sure your grounded.
Use a spray bottle and have something under the car to catch all the dirt and oil that will drain out the bottom.
Gas I've found is the best cleaner, after using LOADS of chemicals. It's also extremely cheap.
(It also makes for a great prep before painting, as it doesn't leave residue)
The best all purpose cleaner is Regular Gasoline. Wear safety glasses and and a respirator so the fumes don't bug you. Make sure your grounded.
Use a spray bottle and have something under the car to catch all the dirt and oil that will drain out the bottom.
Gas I've found is the best cleaner, after using LOADS of chemicals. It's also extremely cheap.
(It also makes for a great prep before painting, as it doesn't leave residue)
#12
Gas isn't cheap these days. As for cleaning before painting you could get the same results from acetone which is what professional painters use. I clean engine bays all day at work with degreaser and a pressure washer. Nothing ever happens. Then to make the engine look good (esthetics) we spray it down with ArmorAll.
#13
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Acetone or gasoline works good. After all cleaning is done i would use WD40 not Armorall. WD40 is better as it keeps everything lubricated and prevents hoses from getting brittle. Armorall just builds up more dirt and grime.
#14
Either that or Laquer Thinner, but both are more expensive than gas. Trust me, gas is the cheapest 'chemical' for this. It's probably even cheaper than degreaser. The rust by the way won't happen in that amount of time, the rust will appear slowly. Also, the pressure washer will blow off all the anti-seize or grease on the bolts, then the bolt heads will start rusting. Then the bolt heads and washers once they start rusting, may transfer the rust to surrounding metal if its touching anything thin. Then the maxima 'tin' metal starts to rust in a few years, then you get a hole. Then you have to clean it again, then MIG it shut LOL!!!!!
I can totally see though doing it all day, you would not want to use gas. The fumes alone would become explosive indoors. Outdoors in your driveway though, there's very little risk of igniting, unless someones an idiot and smoking a doob or something HA!!
I've been using gas alot - it cuts through almost anything very quickly. Especially if you soak it in the gas.
I can totally see though doing it all day, you would not want to use gas. The fumes alone would become explosive indoors. Outdoors in your driveway though, there's very little risk of igniting, unless someones an idiot and smoking a doob or something HA!!
I've been using gas alot - it cuts through almost anything very quickly. Especially if you soak it in the gas.
#15
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
Acetone or gasoline works good. After all cleaning is done i would use WD40 not Armorall. WD40 is better as it keeps everything lubricated and prevents hoses from getting brittle. Armorall just builds up more dirt and grime.
#16
Yes and also, using gas in a spray bottle would be highly inefficient in a commercial operation. The pressure washer is fast. With my gas method, i'm like a bloody janitor with the spray bottle, wiping up little billys barff on the floor at school!
Believe it or not, this may sound wrong, but road grime and greasy dirt coating parts of the maxima, in the right spots, actually prevents corrosion damage to the metal and chassis. You'll often see this in sections of the undercarriage or rear struts that were covered in road grime. When I cut through all the road grime on the bottom of the struts, the metal underneath was literally brand shiny new. The parts that were exposed to the atmosphere, were rusted to hell.
A greasy oily dirty engine bay may actually be better for the car.
That said, it looks GROSS. LOL!!!!
Believe it or not, this may sound wrong, but road grime and greasy dirt coating parts of the maxima, in the right spots, actually prevents corrosion damage to the metal and chassis. You'll often see this in sections of the undercarriage or rear struts that were covered in road grime. When I cut through all the road grime on the bottom of the struts, the metal underneath was literally brand shiny new. The parts that were exposed to the atmosphere, were rusted to hell.
A greasy oily dirty engine bay may actually be better for the car.
That said, it looks GROSS. LOL!!!!
Last edited by Porky; 09-23-2012 at 11:53 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by Porky
Yes and also, using gas in a spray bottle would be highly inefficient in a commercial operation. The pressure washer is fast. With my gas method, i'm like a bloody janitor with the spray bottle, wiping up little billys barff on the floor at school!
Believe it or not, this may sound wong, but road grime and greasy dirt coating parts of the maxima, in the right spots, actually prevents corrosion damage to the metal and chassis. You'll often see this in sections of the undercarriage or rear struts that were covered in road grime. When I cut through all the road grime on the bottom of the struts, the metal underneath was literally brand shiny new. The parts that were exposed to the atmosphere, were rusted to hell.
A greasy oily dirty engine bay bay actually be better for the car.
That said, it looks GROSS. LOL!!!!
Believe it or not, this may sound wong, but road grime and greasy dirt coating parts of the maxima, in the right spots, actually prevents corrosion damage to the metal and chassis. You'll often see this in sections of the undercarriage or rear struts that were covered in road grime. When I cut through all the road grime on the bottom of the struts, the metal underneath was literally brand shiny new. The parts that were exposed to the atmosphere, were rusted to hell.
A greasy oily dirty engine bay bay actually be better for the car.
That said, it looks GROSS. LOL!!!!
#18
Although the hot Texas car would probably need to be re-primed and painted from the sun damage, do you think there is any other potential damage that the sun can do in those temps?
I was thinking about picking up an old chassis in the US, where there's no snow or salt, but wondering if the heat THAT HOT damages the metal in any way. Do you know?
Also, what about the wiring systems. Does the heat from the sun crack the insulation over time?
I was thinking about picking up an old chassis in the US, where there's no snow or salt, but wondering if the heat THAT HOT damages the metal in any way. Do you know?
Also, what about the wiring systems. Does the heat from the sun crack the insulation over time?
#19
Originally Posted by Porky
Although the hot Texas car would probably need to be re-primed and painted from the sun damage, do you think there is any other potential damage that the sun can do in those temps?
I was thinking about picking up an old chassis in the US, where there's no snow or salt, but wondering if the heat THAT HOT damages the metal in any way. Do you know?
Also, what about the wiring systems. Does the heat from the sun crack the insulation over time?
I was thinking about picking up an old chassis in the US, where there's no snow or salt, but wondering if the heat THAT HOT damages the metal in any way. Do you know?
Also, what about the wiring systems. Does the heat from the sun crack the insulation over time?
#21
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
I only use the WD40 on my own car but working at the dealer i only use brake clean after i do an oil repair. Detail dept. handles the rest so who knows what else they use besides degreaser.
#22
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Its probably the dealer than doesn't want to spend the money on supplies for techs. luckily for our dealer; they are not like that. They provide everything for us excluding personal tools and boxes but we generally have all of the necessary special tools for the bimmers.
#23
If I was buying a car and someone had painted the engine bay, it would be a possible deal breaker. If you're going to keep it for life, then do whatever you want, but if you want to sell it sometime, keep it respectable. A good cleaning will go a long way.
#24
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
Its probably the dealer than doesn't want to spend the money on supplies for techs. luckily for our dealer; they are not like that. They provide everything for us excluding personal tools and boxes but we generally have all of the necessary special tools for the bimmers.
#25
Originally Posted by Hectic
If I was buying a car and someone had painted the engine bay, it would be a possible deal breaker. If you're going to keep it for life, then do whatever you want, but if you want to sell it sometime, keep it respectable. A good cleaning will go a long way.
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James92SE
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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01-02-2024 09:23 AM