Amazing Injector Replacement Thread
Amazing Injector Replacement Thread
"I replaced the injectors in my VG30 without removing the intake!"

"Yeahhh! That's the ticket!"
OK, back to reality.
The center front injector is causing me problems. A year or more ago I had one injector replaced by a shop as I did not have or want to make the time to remove the intake.
Looking back, should of had them all replaced, remember that if you need to do this.
My questions are:
I could not find complete instructions, or is this pretty self-explanatory?
Tools are not an issue, I feel that I am fairly competent when it comes to working on things.
My son is 16 and I want him to assist, he has never worked on a car before and I'm hoping to give him this one.
So far, all I have done for diagnostics is remove the plug wires to ID the faulty cylinder. I've seen the OHM test for the injectors, need to read more - can this be done without removing the intake?
OK, now that I've gone this far, how about a link to answer all these questions?

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-tutorial.html
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm
OK, thanks!

"Yeahhh! That's the ticket!"
OK, back to reality.
The center front injector is causing me problems. A year or more ago I had one injector replaced by a shop as I did not have or want to make the time to remove the intake.
Looking back, should of had them all replaced, remember that if you need to do this.
My questions are:
I could not find complete instructions, or is this pretty self-explanatory?
- Torque specs apply to anything?
- Parts required (Gaskets, ect)
- Best source for decent injectors at a fair price
- How long does it normally take to do this job?
- Any other tips or tricks?
Tools are not an issue, I feel that I am fairly competent when it comes to working on things.
My son is 16 and I want him to assist, he has never worked on a car before and I'm hoping to give him this one.
So far, all I have done for diagnostics is remove the plug wires to ID the faulty cylinder. I've seen the OHM test for the injectors, need to read more - can this be done without removing the intake?
OK, now that I've gone this far, how about a link to answer all these questions?

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-tutorial.html
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm
OK, thanks!
I sure wanna see you change them without removing your intake. The way they're in there you can't access the fuel injector retaining cap hardware nor lift the injector out of the lower intake manifold! Good Luck! You're watse your time....
Plenum must be removed, and "adapter plate" (Lower Intake Manifold Collector) needs to be removed I recall. Heck, I think I even remember removing the fuel rail, to replace those little hoses, and to bang out the old injectors on a vice.
The job is not a big deal, and there are a ton of posts on here if you search the archives. The FSM has the torque specs. Gaskets you'll need are the Plenum Gasket and the Adapter plate gasket. Both are metal. The key so you don't damage the new ones is the TWISTING motion, when you insert them, with the O-Ring pre-lubed with vasaline or was it engine oil, I can't remember. REPLACE THE INJECTOR CAP FASTENERS. I used Greenys method years ago to get the garbage little phillips screws they used OUT, as they stripped. VICE GRIPS will get them out. I soked them in penetrant ahead of time. Replace them with Cap Screws (Hex Head). Other important parts:
Injector Insulator Top (6)
Injector O-Ring Seal Upper (6)
Injector O-Ring Seal Lower (6)
Injector Insulator Bottom (6)
The injectors you want are the pink Bosch ones, these are the OEM replacement. To do the job properly, if you work carefully, it will likely take you a day. If you want to work at a nice pace, I would take 2 days. Label hoses with masking tape as you disconnect them, so you can match where they go back.
The job is not a big deal, and there are a ton of posts on here if you search the archives. The FSM has the torque specs. Gaskets you'll need are the Plenum Gasket and the Adapter plate gasket. Both are metal. The key so you don't damage the new ones is the TWISTING motion, when you insert them, with the O-Ring pre-lubed with vasaline or was it engine oil, I can't remember. REPLACE THE INJECTOR CAP FASTENERS. I used Greenys method years ago to get the garbage little phillips screws they used OUT, as they stripped. VICE GRIPS will get them out. I soked them in penetrant ahead of time. Replace them with Cap Screws (Hex Head). Other important parts:
Injector Insulator Top (6)
Injector O-Ring Seal Upper (6)
Injector O-Ring Seal Lower (6)
Injector Insulator Bottom (6)
The injectors you want are the pink Bosch ones, these are the OEM replacement. To do the job properly, if you work carefully, it will likely take you a day. If you want to work at a nice pace, I would take 2 days. Label hoses with masking tape as you disconnect them, so you can match where they go back.
One small warning:
Be extra careful with the metal pin which holds the electrical plug onto the injector. It looks like a paper clip bent into a partial rectangle. I found it easiest to use a small flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers at the same time, sop as to prevent it flying into the oblivion.
They are also painful, watch out.
Other than that, have fun in there.
Be extra careful with the metal pin which holds the electrical plug onto the injector. It looks like a paper clip bent into a partial rectangle. I found it easiest to use a small flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers at the same time, sop as to prevent it flying into the oblivion.
They are also painful, watch out.
Other than that, have fun in there.
One small warning:
Be extra careful with the metal pin which holds the electrical plug onto the injector. It looks like a paper clip bent into a partial rectangle. I found it easiest to use a small flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers at the same time, sop as to prevent it flying into the oblivion.
They are also painful, watch out.
Other than that, have fun in there.
Be extra careful with the metal pin which holds the electrical plug onto the injector. It looks like a paper clip bent into a partial rectangle. I found it easiest to use a small flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers at the same time, sop as to prevent it flying into the oblivion.
They are also painful, watch out.
Other than that, have fun in there.
Had to tear the upper end down a few years back -

Roseanne Roseannadanna was there, she saw me - saw me do it in 15, uh - no, 10 minutes, yeah, yeah, that's the ticket -
You need to google/youtube tommy flanagan, guess he was a little ahead of your time....
Well, I went to order up a couple injectors, and needed to find out what color dot they were.
Nice, no easy way to see the flippin' dot, so I started surfing and found brand new "Standard Motor Products" fuel injectors for about $50.00 each - not manufacturer ones, "new" -
Does anyone have any experience with these?
I'll just replace them all if these are "OK" otherwise, I think I'll bite the bullet and order up a set of the "good" ones....
Nice, no easy way to see the flippin' dot, so I started surfing and found brand new "Standard Motor Products" fuel injectors for about $50.00 each - not manufacturer ones, "new" -
Does anyone have any experience with these?
I'll just replace them all if these are "OK" otherwise, I think I'll bite the bullet and order up a set of the "good" ones....
Last edited by ujm; Oct 22, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
Originally Posted by ujm
Well, I went to order up a couple injectors, and needed to find out what color dot they were.
Nice, no easy way to see the flippin' dot, so I started surfing and found brand new "Standard Motor Products" fuel injectors for about $50.00 each - not manufacturer ones, "new" -
Does anyone have any experience with these?
I'll just replace them all if these are "OK" otherwise, I think I'll bite the bullet and order up a set of the "good" ones....
Nice, no easy way to see the flippin' dot, so I started surfing and found brand new "Standard Motor Products" fuel injectors for about $50.00 each - not manufacturer ones, "new" -
Does anyone have any experience with these?
I'll just replace them all if these are "OK" otherwise, I think I'll bite the bullet and order up a set of the "good" ones....
Thank you both!
I'm looking forward to doing the job, sort of therapy for me - I hope my son enjoys it.....
Might be a good time to do some intake inlet mod, I prefer the cool air intake but feel a large diameter pipe might make a difference.
We'll see.....
I'm looking forward to doing the job, sort of therapy for me - I hope my son enjoys it.....
Might be a good time to do some intake inlet mod, I prefer the cool air intake but feel a large diameter pipe might make a difference.
We'll see.....
Im going to be replacing my injectors this weekend on the vg30e sohc. I got the injectors from GB which looks pretty similar to those standard motor ones. Anyways i got the last of everything i need today. Got the intake gasket set for $30 on ebay, egr gasket, iacv gasket, throttle body gasket, throttle body and intake cleaner. Its going to be a long day saturday, lol. I've tried everything else under the sun to get my car running good with no luck so hopefully this is it.
Im going to be replacing my injectors this weekend on the vg30e sohc. I got the injectors from GB which looks pretty similar to those standard motor ones. Anyways i got the last of everything i need today. Got the intake gasket set for $30 on ebay, egr gasket, iacv gasket, throttle body gasket, throttle body and intake cleaner. Its going to be a long day saturday, lol. I've tried everything else under the sun to get my car running good with no luck so hopefully this is it.
I just ordered 6 injectors - I went with JECS units which are a OEM manufacturer in Japan. All 6 of them, delivered, $359.70 or $59.95 each.
The guy I ordered them from's name is Mike, he said he orders his injectors a thousand at a time. He's been in business since the 1950's and I'm hoping this works out fine.
tmorales - Keep us updated, thanks!
My Nissan ordered parts arrived - I may of ordered too many pieces, better to have something than not IMO.
I hope to sell anything I don't use, as well as the old injectors (a couple are newer). I'll ohm test them prior to listing them.
Injectors should be here Monday - I'm trying to get this done and out of the way by then:



With work load, probably be middle to later part of the week...
- 16635-53J0A Injector Insulator x 6
- 16618-53J00 O-Ring x 10 (5/pkg)
- 16618-10V05 O-Ring x 6
- 16635-10V10 Injector Insulator x6
- 16175-89E10 Gasket Throttle Body x1
- 16175-89E00 Gasket Throttle Body x1
- 14032-89E01 Manifold Gasket x1
- 14033-0P001 Manifold Gasket x1
I hope to sell anything I don't use, as well as the old injectors (a couple are newer). I'll ohm test them prior to listing them.
Injectors should be here Monday - I'm trying to get this done and out of the way by then:



With work load, probably be middle to later part of the week...
Injectors arrived -



Ordered them from these guys -

"Brand new not rebuilt" and from an OEM Manufacturer in Japan
Web surfing:
Wiki
All 6 of them, delivered, $359.70 or $59.95 each
I'll try to get them installed this week



Ordered them from these guys -

"Brand new not rebuilt" and from an OEM Manufacturer in Japan
Web surfing:
Unisa JECS make them and they can be branded as Nismo, Apexi, HKS or Tomei
JECS Corporation is an automotive components company headquartered in Isesaki, Gunma, Japan and a wholly owned subsidiary of Hitachi. Its principal products are electronic control units, software, semiconductors, mechatronics, resin molding, inspection technology and material analysis.
JECS was formed in June 1973. It was a joint venture between Robert Bosch GmbH, Nissan Motor Co. and Diesel Kiki Co., Ltd.. It enabled Nissan to use Bosch's engine control technology, and gave Bosch access to the Japanese market. JECS later expanded to manufacture many other automotive parts besides EFI systems.
JECS was formed in June 1973. It was a joint venture between Robert Bosch GmbH, Nissan Motor Co. and Diesel Kiki Co., Ltd.. It enabled Nissan to use Bosch's engine control technology, and gave Bosch access to the Japanese market. JECS later expanded to manufacture many other automotive parts besides EFI systems.
I'll try to get them installed this week
Last edited by ujm; Oct 29, 2012 at 12:40 PM.
Well i started with replacing my injectors on sunday. I got about 2 hours of work in, got everything out, all injectors out, cleaned the upper and lower intake, replaced the bad injectors but my work in on hold til probably this coming weekend because the 2 injectors that were good the pintle caps cracked when removing them so i had to order them. Hopefully i will get them by thurs. Here are a few pics i snapped real quick of where im at now.
Since i had nothing to work on today i took the liberty of repainting my intake manifold.

Here is the lower intake all cleaned up.

These are seal repair kits by BWD for the 4 injectors that are good, new rings and whatnot.


I got my injectors from this place. $30 an injector remanufactured.

And my max which has to remain like this for a few days
Since i had nothing to work on today i took the liberty of repainting my intake manifold.

Here is the lower intake all cleaned up.

These are seal repair kits by BWD for the 4 injectors that are good, new rings and whatnot.


I got my injectors from this place. $30 an injector remanufactured.

And my max which has to remain like this for a few days

Last edited by tmorales509; Oct 29, 2012 at 05:10 PM.
Well i started with replacing my injectors on sunday. I got about 2 hours of work in, got everything out, all injectors out, cleaned the upper and lower intake, replaced the bad injectors but my work in on hold til probably this coming weekend because the 2 injectors that were good the pintle caps cracked when removing them so i had to order them. Hopefully i will get them by thurs. Here are a few pics i snapped real quick of where im at now.
Since i had nothing to work on today i took the liberty of repainting my intake manifold.

Here is the lower intake all cleaned up.

These are seal repair kits by BWD for the 4 injectors that are good, new rings and whatnot.


I got my injectors from this place. $30 an injector remanufactured.

And my max which has to remain like this for a few days

Since i had nothing to work on today i took the liberty of repainting my intake manifold.

Here is the lower intake all cleaned up.

These are seal repair kits by BWD for the 4 injectors that are good, new rings and whatnot.


I got my injectors from this place. $30 an injector remanufactured.

And my max which has to remain like this for a few days


Yeah if i had an actual camera i would of took alot more pics but all i have is my tablet camera and i don't want to carry it around outside and my phone doesn't take good pics. I will try and get some pics of putting everything back on at least.
Well im done for today, my back is killing me, lol. I wasn't able to take pics though, half the time i was getting pissed trying to get certain parts back in, lol but yeah the fuel rail was a pain to get back in there. but i have to finish up in the morning. I got mostly everything back on just need a couple more hoses, the throttle body and intake, battery and i should be done. I will tell you one thing, be real careful when taking off bolts and the clips that hold the injector harness. I lost one clip, like 2 bolts(had to go get em at the junkyard) and im not sure if this is bad, i hope not but i dropped one of the little rubber seals actually inside to motor, the little holes in the lower intake. I hope its not bad because i couldnt get it out..
Well i am finally done changing the injectors and everything looks good, no leaks, runs smooth.
Two things i still notice though. 1-it idles fine at around 750 in drive however when i turn either the ac on or heater the car drops down to about 550 and it starts to shake a little. It does not do this with any other accessory only ac and heater. The voltage stays pretty level, it might drop .1 or .2 but not much at all. My dad has a 90 accord and his car does not do this, i can turn the ac on full and his idle drops maybe at the most 50. Also i do not know if it is supposed to do this but when i turn those things on i hear a loud click from under the hood. I believe it has always done that but not sure.
2-this im not 100% sure yet but i believe it still has trouble starting when cold but once it warms up it drives fine. The only thing i can think of that i haven't changed recently is the CTS. Could it have went bad again?
Two things i still notice though. 1-it idles fine at around 750 in drive however when i turn either the ac on or heater the car drops down to about 550 and it starts to shake a little. It does not do this with any other accessory only ac and heater. The voltage stays pretty level, it might drop .1 or .2 but not much at all. My dad has a 90 accord and his car does not do this, i can turn the ac on full and his idle drops maybe at the most 50. Also i do not know if it is supposed to do this but when i turn those things on i hear a loud click from under the hood. I believe it has always done that but not sure.
2-this im not 100% sure yet but i believe it still has trouble starting when cold but once it warms up it drives fine. The only thing i can think of that i haven't changed recently is the CTS. Could it have went bad again?
Last edited by tmorales509; Nov 3, 2012 at 09:59 AM.
Well, it took me a while, but I finally got started at 12:30
Had to run to Walmart for Throttle Body Cleaner, bought three cans, needed less than two.
Here is it before I started -

I went and found my satin tip counter brush and swept everything off. It make quick work of a quick clean, or dusting.
Next I started the car and then pulled the fuel pump fuse - top right of the fuse box. Took a few seconds, car died. Tried to start it, nope, we're good.
Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.
Removed the front three spark plug wires and throttle control cables.
Started at the left rear and worked my way clockwise, studying the various hoses and connectors and grounds and such, not bad.
Started taking everything apart, really, fairly simple.
The throttle body, left it and as much as I could attached to the upper intake.

Removed the lower, cleaned up up pretty well and also the upper, best I could.
Old injectors - all had the same MFG mark on them as the new $60.00 ones I just bought, I feel really good about them.
No issues with any of the screws, took my time, one at a time. I ended up pulling the harder injectors out with pliers, messed a couple up, aesthetically. 5 of those were good, a couple fairly new. I'll ohm test them and post them on eBay to try and get a little of the expense back.
Also did not use any of the parts I bought other than the gaskets. Old gaskets peeled right off, piece of cake. They'll also go go eBay.
The most difficult thing was the pipe nut on the EGR pipe I think it is, you know the one if you've done these. Only took patience as my crescent wrench only turned 1/4 at a time. Looking back, I probably have a wrench that size and it would of gone quicker.
I sprayed a little penetrating oil on it to make it go back together easier.
Everything went back together fine. I cut a few of the vacuum lines and hoses shorter to make them tighter.
I had one left over connector, I'm not sure I hooked it up right, but the car runs great. Here is a picture -

Look OK? What is the connector end that is attached to the other wire? Does anything go to it? Oiy.....

Wrapped it up and had it started a little before 3:00. I could of done it quicker, but the pace was good.
I feel good about it, 2 1/2 hours, no real issues other than that one wire. Went for a ride with my son (16 w/permit), had a good time. Took him to a little "private dragstrip" and let him have at it a couple times.
The look on his face was priceless. The car, it runs better than it ever has since we have owned it, that good, I'm happy.
Time will tell, but I do feel those injectors will work out - they are OEM according to the markings, for the price, new -
Had to run to Walmart for Throttle Body Cleaner, bought three cans, needed less than two.
Here is it before I started -

I went and found my satin tip counter brush and swept everything off. It make quick work of a quick clean, or dusting.
Next I started the car and then pulled the fuel pump fuse - top right of the fuse box. Took a few seconds, car died. Tried to start it, nope, we're good.
Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.
Removed the front three spark plug wires and throttle control cables.
Started at the left rear and worked my way clockwise, studying the various hoses and connectors and grounds and such, not bad.
Started taking everything apart, really, fairly simple.
The throttle body, left it and as much as I could attached to the upper intake.

Removed the lower, cleaned up up pretty well and also the upper, best I could.
Old injectors - all had the same MFG mark on them as the new $60.00 ones I just bought, I feel really good about them.
No issues with any of the screws, took my time, one at a time. I ended up pulling the harder injectors out with pliers, messed a couple up, aesthetically. 5 of those were good, a couple fairly new. I'll ohm test them and post them on eBay to try and get a little of the expense back.
Also did not use any of the parts I bought other than the gaskets. Old gaskets peeled right off, piece of cake. They'll also go go eBay.
The most difficult thing was the pipe nut on the EGR pipe I think it is, you know the one if you've done these. Only took patience as my crescent wrench only turned 1/4 at a time. Looking back, I probably have a wrench that size and it would of gone quicker.
I sprayed a little penetrating oil on it to make it go back together easier.
Everything went back together fine. I cut a few of the vacuum lines and hoses shorter to make them tighter.
I had one left over connector, I'm not sure I hooked it up right, but the car runs great. Here is a picture -

Look OK? What is the connector end that is attached to the other wire? Does anything go to it? Oiy.....

Wrapped it up and had it started a little before 3:00. I could of done it quicker, but the pace was good.
I feel good about it, 2 1/2 hours, no real issues other than that one wire. Went for a ride with my son (16 w/permit), had a good time. Took him to a little "private dragstrip" and let him have at it a couple times.
The look on his face was priceless. The car, it runs better than it ever has since we have owned it, that good, I'm happy.
Time will tell, but I do feel those injectors will work out - they are OEM according to the markings, for the price, new -
Planning on taking the Maxima on a couple hundred mile cruise today, a 500+ mile one this weekend.
I just got through working on a VG30E 95 pathfinder replaced timing belt, cam seals, crank seal, V/C gaskets, leaking fuelrail hose (caught fire momentarily), intermittent #5 fuel injector, new spark plugs, retapped spark plug inserts, replaced pulley drive belts, repaired passenger exhaust which had 2 broken headpipe flange studs, swaybar bushings, rear muffler hangar mount.....All my parts were acquired from partsgeek.com; I found those rebuilt GB fuel injectors for $26...a good choice for those on a budget! partsgeek.com is awesome guys!
I just got through working on a VG30E 95 pathfinder replaced timing belt, cam seals, crank seal, V/C gaskets, leaking fuelrail hose (caught fire momentarily), intermittent #5 fuel injector, new spark plugs, retapped spark plug inserts, replaced pulley drive belts, repaired passenger exhaust which had 2 broken headpipe flange studs, swaybar bushings, rear muffler hangar mount.....All my parts were acquired from partsgeek.com; I found those rebuilt GB fuel injectors for $26...a good choice for those on a budget! partsgeek.com is awesome guys!
Glad you're OK!
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