I just bought a 92 GXE with 142k miles. Its a sweet looking car and my first maxima. It had a bad miss when I bought it but had just been fitted with new plugs wires and cap. I took it to an import garage and the told me it was a bad #3 injector. I replaced it and it ran great for a day or two. Now it is me ssing up again. It idles in Park around 700rpm with a steady jumping hesitation. In Drive while cold it misses bad as I give it some gas petal.After it warms up and still In drive it misses around 2000 to 3000rpms. It seems llike it is quickly getting worse and then it will seem ok and not really miss too bad. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

 

did you only replace one injector? If #3 failed, then the rest might not be far behind. Maybe another one failed already. I lost 2 in a week once. Some of them are easier to get to than others, but you can check the resistance between the 2 pins of the injector with a multimeter if they are exposed, but the front ones are underneath the intake so there is a sub-harness that has one shared wire, and 3 individual wires, and you can check the resistance there instead.

It's in here somewhere. I think it's in the "electrical component test" section of the VG30E engine portion, but i'm not 100% sure on that http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/ec.pdf

 

Yes sir, being the novice that i am i only replaced 1 injector. I origionally bought the car for 1100, which is too much in hindsight. So I wanted to be a tightwad about it but hours of labor later I wish id have bought a set of 6 primo FI's and a rail. Anyways, I like your suggested FI test with the multi meter. Sounds like surefire . Only thing is, every one of these darn injector wire clips is rubber cemented with balck goo to the injectors. I had to literally break the one that I changed in the course of its removal. Id have to do it to the other 5 too. Not cost effective but probably should be done. Im only being tight in the wallet cause the brakes are soft and need fixing and I need suspension cause the thing sways and bounces all over the road. Not to mention the little things power locks quit, radio sucks and driver window wont roll down. Anyways......I thought the rubber cement thing was odd.

◆◆*do you think these are after market injectors or clips? (the clips are grey)
◆◆*do you know of another way to go about testing the back three injectors? (One guy says pull the plug wire while its running...another says mechanics stethoscope to hear a clicking on each injector)
Kindest Regards

 

there is a test described in the FSM which is a power balance test. Basically you disable the idle control valve so it will send a fixed amount of air to the engine, then you pull an injector plug (or in your case, i guess a spark plug wire) and see when the idle dips and when it doesn't. When it doesn't, that's your dead cylinder. The test is described in the same PDF i linked before.

 

Power balance test. Interesting stuff. I just found my hidden box under the console. Going to reference the fsm and look for this pb test you speak of. You are awell experienced and generous man wookie. AS you have already noticed, my cup of maxima knowledge is empty. But quickly filling up thanks to people like you. I got the link and it is helpful although understanding it is difficult at times. Great thanks to you and this forum. Ill post results.

 

I cleaned the pcv valve and the iacv or aac today and no change in the idle. Still chocking and putting. I disconnected the maf and the idle increases from 700rpm to 1200rpm (seems to sound high) so im not sure what that means other than the maf must be doing something. I also got a code from my ecu that said 55 or normal. However, this did not put me at ease, but Ialso caught a 13 but only once and I couldn't get it again. I referred to the fsm and it said 13 was the engine coolant temperature sensor. I also read that this sensor is part of the valve control timing system. It seems from what ive read this could be cause for the engine to idle funny and miss while running. Of course ihavent done anything except hunt and skim through the fsm so I could be way off in my understanding. I was feeling lucky with the ecm but all those 55's had me like no. ****** way. Anyone know first hand if the engine coolant temperature sensor can cause miss in prk and drive, and stalling in lower rpm while driving?

 

I pulled each plug wire today. Engine idle dipped each time. Im starting to think it may be a sensor, valve or a wire connection/harness.

 

coolant temperature sensor can sometimes the car to run rich as a failsafe. Do your fans run all the time? Have you checked that connector for corrosion, and ohmed the sensor with a cold engine, and with a hot engine?

Also the SOHC engine does not have valve timing control, it uses fixed timing. the DOHC was the only one that had VTC's.

cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner (not carb cleaner or brake cleaner) would also be a good idea, especially if you have a cone-shaped air filter which are sometimes oiled (and oil + maf = )

 

I pulled every plug one at a time and checked gap and condition. They were all gapped about the same and all in the same condition. I noticed on the #3 plug wire that the inner connector pulled out from the wire and stuck around the plug. I shoved it back up in the wire with a pair of needlenose. #3 is the one I had been pulling the most looking for a change in idle. No more miss! The miss is gone. it just takes a little time doing a check from cylinders 1-6 and In my case it was something simple. Ill be starting a new thread now about the same car just a different problem to solve.
Thanks to all