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Doing my timing belt at 145k

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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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Gotta do it right with all OEM parts... The whole works...
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Last edited by Jacobaudi; Dec 19, 2013 at 07:01 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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I'll take the remains of the interval sticker (instructions), or the whole thing if you don't use the sticker.

Good job not settling for aftermarket junk.
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
I'll take the remains of the interval sticker (instructions), or the whole thing if you don't use the sticker.

Good job not settling for aftermarket junk.
Sure if u want the remains....when it come to go a timing belt job... I like to do it the right way. I seen a lot of people went cheap and 2 months later BANG timing belt snap
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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Yeah, usually what goes is the tensioner or the belt just snaps outright when they set it waaaaay too tight or not nearly tight enough (though really, your worst issue with too loose is shearing teeth off and/or jumping time and subsequently eating valves) I did mine a couple months ago during downtime/lunch breaks, pretty much did the same list you're doing, but I included head gaskets and six new OEM injectors in the mix while I was at it - figured I'm already basically there, might as well! Pulled the motor and trans and put them on a pallet in the corner of the shop, when we weren't busy or I was on lunch break I'd roll a stool and my rollcart over there and wrench away at it.

Come to find out putting the motor back in, I have it up on a lift table, lifting up into the car and what the hell, the crossmember doesn't line up at all! My front motormount (I didn't know it wasn't supposed to have a Z shape LOL) was bent all to hell from some past accident or something.

Needless to say, bench vice and one BFH later, she was straight enough to fit! Waaaaaaay easier with the engine out, but then I'm rather spoiled here being at a Nissan shop... lifts, tables, the whole nine yards. Sure beats the dirty, oily, dusty old shed I used to work in.

Last edited by Levsimus; Dec 19, 2013 at 09:19 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Levsimus
Yeah, usually what goes is the tensioner or the belt just snaps outright when they set it waaaaay too tight or not nearly tight enough (though really, your worst issue with too loose is shearing teeth off and/or jumping time and subsequently eating valves) I did mine a couple months ago during downtime/lunch breaks, pretty much did the same list you're doing, but I included head gaskets and six new OEM injectors in the mix while I was at it - figured I'm already basically there, might as well! Pulled the motor and trans and put them on a pallet in the corner of the shop, when we weren't busy or I was on lunch break I'd roll a stool and my rollcart over there and wrench away at it.

Come to find out putting the motor back in, I have it up on a lift table, lifting up into the car and what the hell, the crossmember doesn't line up at all! My front motormount (I didn't know it wasn't supposed to have a Z shape LOL) was bent all to hell from some past accident or something.

Needless to say, bench vice and one BFH later, she was straight enough to fit! Waaaaaaay easier with the engine out, but then I'm rather spoiled here being at a Nissan shop... lifts, tables, the whole nine yards. Sure beats the dirty, oily, dusty old shed I used to work in.
That's the worst of having a bent crossmember that really sucks but I'm glad that your able to get it fixed, talking about injectors one of mine works sometime and then some times it don't wanna work... I really have to get that fix. I bet it cost you a lot for 6 of them...
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacobaudi
That's the worst of having a bent crossmember that really sucks but I'm glad that your able to get it fixed, talking about injectors one of mine works sometime and then some times it don't wanna work... I really have to get that fix. I bet it cost you a lot for 6 of them...
Well lets just say I paid a fair bit less than what Courtesy sells them for LOL They weren't cheap, but definitely not retail either.
Old Dec 19, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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two more things to get...
the spring for the tensioner and the stud the spring pushes on.
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
two more things to get...
the spring for the tensioner and the stud the spring pushes on.
Yes I actually purchase the spring and the stud but it was on backorder... And will be picking them up today...
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Levsimus

Well lets just say I paid a fair bit less than what Courtesy sells them for LOL They weren't cheap, but definitely not retail either.
Lol if u have anymore injectors let me know
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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Yeah definitely replace that old stud and spring. I didn't, against my better judgement since I was in a rush and didn't want to wait for more parts.

Now I get to hope neither stud nor spring breaks LOL... shoulda just replaced them damnit! Peace of mind..
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Levsimus
Yeah definitely replace that old stud and spring. I didn't, against my better judgement since I was in a rush and didn't want to wait for more parts.

Now I get to hope neither stud nor spring breaks LOL... shoulda just replaced them damnit! Peace of mind..
I don't think the stud will break its a solid steal unlike the spring I would say that the spring would loose some type of tension
Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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Heh, after drilling out all but two of my exhaust studs (another thing I did when I did the big motor pull) I can't say I much trust steel studs on these motors LOL

If I recall the tensioner pulley stays where you set it once tightened down. My memory is fuzzy so I could be wrong.
Old Jan 4, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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cam seals

Additional things to replace while you have the front of the motor torn down are the cam seals. They get hard and old with age and leak oil. The rear seal is hard to get to while in the car but not impossible. Just be very careful not to scratch or gouge the cam surface while pulling out the old seal.
Old Jan 4, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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Puck nailed it. Make sure you drive the seal in straight or it will leak!
Old Jan 4, 2014 | 10:36 PM
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Here's come pic








Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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:golf clap:
well done
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:59 PM
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I don't like the looks of the thermostat housing and temp sensor housing hose nipples. Lot's of corrosion and pitting. That's a good spot for a leak to develop. Before you put it all back together, I hope you cleaned it well w/ a wire brush, sandpaper and then used some black RTV sealer before putting the hoses on.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by oldpuck81
I don't like the looks of the thermostat housing and temp sensor housing hose nipples. Lot's of corrosion and pitting. That's a good spot for a leak to develop. Before you put it all back together, I hope you cleaned it well w/ a wire brush, sandpaper and then used some black RTV sealer before putting the hoses on.
Oh trust me I did even up to new hoses
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Nice job, about how long did this take you to do once you had all the parts there? I will be doing this myself in a couple of months.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Grumpy560
Nice job, about how long did this take you to do once you had all the parts there? I will be doing this myself in a couple of months.
It look me like 5 hours because really Take my time,and i started early I didn't wanna mess anything up
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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Good job! Sounds like you are doing it right!
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Looks good. I as well have used and will continue to use OEM parts when available. Good job!
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
Looks good. I as well have used and will continue to use OEM parts when available. Good job!
OEM is the best way... you will be more satisfied and it will be more reliable
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacobaudi
OEM is the best way... you will be more satisfied and it will be more reliable
Thats the only way to go. I have taken my engine apart at least 5 times and i have used nothing but OEM Nissan parts. The better you treat your car the better it will treat you in return.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Just buy a gates timeing belt it would have been the same thing
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:09 AM
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oem is not what it used to be. i've seen better aftermarket for our cars over the years.
Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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The Dealer is usng alot of the parts you can purchase thru NAPA....But I'll never use Cloyes Timing component for anything ever again....Had one of thier timing chains stretch on an L-series engine in about 55K after install after driving @120 mph for 30 min straight!
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