Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

Well my fuel rail hoses are leaking now thanks to the cold snap, so its time to once again tear the intake mani off. What size are the rail hoses?

Actually, what size are ALL the fuel hoses? I noticed the main lines from the tank are much larger than the rail ones - I figure someone here has replaced them, surely someone would know. I want to get everything together BEFORE i do the work so I can minimize downtime spent trying to find the "right" stuff! Ideally I will be replacing ALL of the fuel related hosing in the car. I'm debating also replacing fuel pressure regulator while I'm in there as I suspect it to be faulty but can't quite swallow the $150 pill just yet and don't trust the ones at the junkyard to still be any good... so undecided on that one.

Going to drop the tank and replace the vapor hoses and such as well, they're dried out and leaking too, but I'm especially focused on getting the main hoses and rail hoses swapped first. Just need to know diameters, types and lengths.

Thanks to anyone that might know!

Matt92Se

You'll need fuel injection hose with inner diamter of 5/16" for the rails, not sure about the other one. Regular fuel hose should not be used. Also make sure you get clamps specific for fuel hose, http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fue...CJ01/clamp.jpg in the picture in this link, you want the type on the left, not the right. Also the correct size clamps. You need 13-15mm clamps. I screwed up and used 14-16mm clamps a couple years ago and sure enough one of them is leaking already because I couldn't get it any tighter.

I believe you can test the FPR by using a vacuum gauge. I would do that before throwing money at it. I'm not sure how this is done personally as I've never done it.

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, thanks for the info man, much appreciated! I do plan on reusing the original clamps that are already on there as they do appear to be in good shape still. Fortunately, I think I've come across a stash at work of the 5/16ID high pressure fuel lines you mentioned, I'll need to double check but hell, I might just be done with this for pennies. Probably going to have parts order up some more o-rings as I'm suspicious of at least one of my injectors not being seated properly, but haven't been able to prove it just yet. Figure I can investigate since I'm already in there, save the trouble of taking it all apart again down the road.

Another question, something I hadn't thought about - manifold gasket, its pretty new, I did the headgaskets and injectors among other things within the last couple thousand miles, if that. Are manifold gaskets reusable? I was thinking it safest to just supplement with some RTV sealant and be done with it but if there is no reason to do so, then by all means, I'd love to be told otherwise. While the intake is off I'm going to pull the IACV and clean it, and possibly paint it as well (the intake manifold, not the IACV ) you know, knock out ten birds with two stones. Depends on my mood and how long I feel like having it apart as to whether I do any paint work though.

Thanks again, Matt, you're a life saver. Would've been a huge headache to get it apart and have to play guess the smell with fuel hoses instead of being prepared

Matt92Se

If you can get free hose, awesome, just be certain its rated for 60psi+, and for fuel. Clamps are like $2-3 for a pack of 4. I spent $15 total on hose and clamps and that is re-doing all lines from fuel filter and fuel rail (my car is a VE though). Really a cheap job and the savings on fuel not leaking anymore will more than make up for it.

If you really suspect a leaking fuel injector and can do the work yourself... I would go ahead and pull all 6 injectors and put all new, quality, o-rings on them while you're in there. I personally bought my injector o-rings from the dealer because I didn't want to mess around with questioning of quality. May as well ohm out the current injectors and ensure they are all in spec too. If one is out of spec, even new o-rings won't help.
You're spark plugs should help tell you if one of your injectors is leaking.

You will need to get a new gasket. I think using a solid light bead of RTV and the old gasket would work, but I would not recommend it. Once the gasket is installed and the car is driven, the heat affects it to the point I wouldn't re-use it. This gasket will probably be the most expensive part of all this work.

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

I do body work at a Nissan dealer, I've no excuse to not use OEM at the prices I pay for parts haha... I yanked the motor a few months back and did a ton of stuff, including injectors and orings, they are all brand new OEM as of 2k miles or so ago. I had a hell of a time seating one of them in the rail, and I do believe the one I think is leaking just so happens to be that one.

Hopefully the gasket comes off more easily this time. Was a real pain getting it all off last time. It was actually purely RTV on the upper manifold, surprisingly. It wasn't terribly shocking though, one injector was clearly newer than the others, so someone had been in there before.

lyloudavis

You can get a nice Felpro Intake Plenum gasket set for about $12 on e-Bay.

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

Got er done on Saturday, still won't start. Orange spark at the coil wire.

Ugh. Time to go through the motions of trading the ignition system. Bah. Oh well, fuel lines needed replacement so it wasn't a waste, just annoying.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Check anything you may have missed in re assembling your upper intake manifold. Did you remember to re connect your 2 ground wires? Are you getting spark but no fuel?

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

Its doing the same thing as it was before - so whatever it is isn't related to the fuel line work. I've got spark at the coil wire, but its orange. If anything the coil isn't putting out enough voltage, but no idea how to test the coil beyond an ohm test. At this point I cannot progress any futher as far as testing the ignition system because I need a logic light to test the power transistor for the signal pulse. It has voltage on pin A to ground which is a good sign, and my multimeter provides a rudimentary, if inaccurate, indication that I do indeed have a pulse from the power transistor. I'm not happy about what this implies, however - the next step is testing the ECU, and that is indeed the last part in line in the ignition system. I'm going to have the coil warrantied again and see what happens, in the mean time I'm replacing the coolant temp sensor and I'm going to pull the distributor and see if its firing the injectors off. A bad CPS would cause this problem as well but I can smell fuel coming out of the exhaust, implying no spark. My theory as far as the ECU goes is the cold snap we had finally killed whatever the offending part is - its only been misbehaving like this when its colder out and the engine isn't warmed up. Once the car has run a while it will start right back up unless it has sat for a bit and cooled off. For what its worth, after a bit of prodding it DID fire up and idle on its own after I did the work and mucked with it for a while trying to get it to fire up - and it hasn't ran since I shut it off and went home for the night. Flooring it makes no difference in whether it starts but when I did get it to start that time, it caught, tried to stall and I floored it and it did rev up and stay running. Otherwise, open or closed, the throttle has made no difference.

I really don't know what to do, this is the second coil I've put in it - new cap and rotor, new wires, plugs are new within the last 3000mi and when I pulled them on Saturday, were in great shape. I'm pretty livid at this point because its taking up valuable space in the shop and at this point, I'm tired of this turd wasting my time and money. Unfortunately, a new car isn't really in the cards right now so I need to get this **** figured out.

When I crank it, it kinda tries to catch but just doesn't quite start running. Sometimes it'll fire up, idle and then immediately die. Its acting like its not getting fuel. Maybe my fuel gauge is off and it just happens to be low on gas, seems implausible but at this point I'm desperate. I don't have another ECU to swap in and test it, either. So over this car. When it runs, it runs like a top but it won't fecking start now.

Things I will be checking:

-Swapping CTS
-pulling distributor to check the CPS for injector pulse
-probably fuel pump/fuel pressure measurements. Maybe regulator bad, maybe pump isn't providing ENOUGH pressure
-warranty out the coil AGAIN and see what happens. If the coil is bad again, WHY am I going through coils? Who knows.

I wish I had the space, I'd just part this pile of **** out and wash my hands of it. I love the car when it runs but I'm tired of dealing with starting issues. The solution is probably right in front of me, so damn simple I'm sure, but I just can't see it. I WISH I had a known good ECU to test with to rule it out.

EDIT: I need to try running the checker box on it too, don't know why I didn't think of it before but I guess I might get lucky and whatever is going on will throw a code of some kind. Maybe. Doubtful wit my luck but couldn't hurt to try. Also, maybe clogged cat. I guess I could disconnect the y-pipe and see what happens. I noted a rotten egg smell when it started once before, but this was after a while of trying to get it to start. I'd tacked it up to a simple case of a cat saturated with raw fuel but I suppose its possible.

Blackexperience

Good Day to all. This seems a good thread in which to ask my question. My trusty 3rd gen 90 MAX is not running due to rusted out brake and fuel lines at the rear door hinge-post. Has any one here replaced these lines? Do you have any Tips for simplifying the Task for a DIYer?

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

I've never done the metal lines but I think you can buy them pre bent from Nissan. Don't quote me on that though.

Side note - finally got that turd running..... Coolant temp sensor was the source of my problem. Put the new one in and it fired right up. Plugged the old one in and it refused to start. So strange but I want to say it's solved my starting and idle issues thus far! Simplest answer... Even if the seemingly unlikely one.

Grumpy560

iTrader: (1)

Cool, glad you got it sorted out.

Levsimus

iTrader: (1)

Likewise, running a fair bit better now - its rather frustrating that it was right in front of my face the whole time - the symptoms were there, I just... didn't think that it'd completely shut down the car like that. I had assumed (and you know what that gets you...) that the FSM reference to a failsafe mode in the event of a bad CTS would have allowed it to at least start.

I was very wrong, and should have replaced it anyways as I knew it was bad and it was also throwing a code when I used the ECCS checker box on it a few months back - in the future, I'll be smarter and replace a part I know to be bad rather than try to justify NOT replacing it, especially when having major problems!


@Blackexperience -

I asked our parts guy, he said that OEM fuel lines should indeed come pre-shaped and pre-flared so all you'd have to do is remove your old and put the new ones in. Brake lines too - so if you'd like to save time that might be the way to go. It'll save you the trouble of bending the tubing and having to flare the tubing as well.