Loose/sloppy steering
03-28-2014, 08:31 AM
#1
Loose/sloppy steering
I've replaced all front end parts and have the car lowered on eibach's. Im running on 18" rims and tires. The only thing I can think of is the rack n pinion. I've had an alignment and new tires balanced. The rack is about the only thing I can think of that hasn't been changed and is stock. I find that the wheel feels just a little sloppy or shifty. I'd like to get that feel of the steering wheel being firmer at tdc and not feeling like it wants to shift side to side on the smallest bumps. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
03-28-2014, 08:42 AM
#3
Thanks DanNY, Im thinking it has something to do with the rack being all other front end parts are new. Control arms with poly bushings, inner and outter tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar links, springs and struts etc. I was thinking of putting in a rebuilt or new rack. I was also wondering if having 18"s could be part of it but I wouldn't think so with a new front end.
03-28-2014, 09:21 AM
#4
bigger/wider wheels might make the steering feel a little more heavy since you have less flex from the sidewalls and bigger contact patch.
where the rack mounts to the body there's two rubber bushings. if these were never replaced or have oil on them they will cause the sloppy steering or looseness.
where the rack mounts to the body there's two rubber bushings. if these were never replaced or have oil on them they will cause the sloppy steering or looseness.
03-28-2014, 11:03 AM
#5
I don't believe those bushings ever were changed. At least as long as i've had the car they haven't. Being that the rack is stock would there be other components within it that would wear causing this aswell? I know one of the boots is a little cracked but I haven't seen any leakage yet. Being that the rack is 22 years old im thinking of pricing out a new one. I figure it can't hurt. I'll check into some prices. Would those bushings come with the rack do you know or would I have to order those bushings separate?
03-28-2014, 11:20 AM
#6
Bushings are separate. Get a reman rack from whomever you prefer - unless someone private party is ebaying, you will not find a new OEM in the US, at least not from a Nissan dealer. I think mine was 90 bucks through work, not including core.
I had bad bumpsteer and sketchy feel in the steering as a result of bad rack bushings. One was completely gone, the other falling out of the brackets. Needless to say, my steering rack was moving around quite a bit in the mounts!
I had bad bumpsteer and sketchy feel in the steering as a result of bad rack bushings. One was completely gone, the other falling out of the brackets. Needless to say, my steering rack was moving around quite a bit in the mounts!
03-28-2014, 04:38 PM
#8
In most cases i'd agree with that Cmax. I've put alot into the car over the years restoring it and upgrades. It's probably only 1 of about 3 or 4 parts that's left on the car that's 22 years old and with cracked boots and worn bushings it's piece of mind and a drop in the bucket compared to what's been done and put into it. I do plan on keeping the car for many more years to come and while the max wasn't a big collectors car like the 240's or the 300zx's it grew on me and it's becoming a pretty rare car here in Canada so it's not my daily driver so to speak. I park it over the winters and it's become a summer car for me.
Last edited by ac max 92; 03-28-2014 at 04:44 PM.
04-14-2014, 12:25 PM
#9
Late to the party, but the steering rack bushings are easy to inspect. Just open the hood and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you're looking at the rack bolted to the firewall. If you can see any side-to-side movement, replace the bushings. They're not that expensive, but they're a PITA.
That said, the typical failure mode on a rack bushing will have the steering off-center after a bump. i.e. you're cruising down the road and the steering wheel is centered. Then you hit a bump or go around a corner and suddently you have to hold it 15deg off to make the car go straight.
There will also be some accompanying vagueness in the steering. With the engine off, you can usually cause the rack to move back and forth with relatively little effort on the wheel, then steering will get harder when the bushing is done sliding and the metal parts run into each other and the thing starts to actually steer the front wheels. Thus the steering will be 'mushy' for about 15 degrees vs. completely loose like a bad rack & pinion.
If the rack/pinion itself is worn, you can hold the wheel straight and the car will wander down the highway because there's a gap worn between the gear teeth. the easiest way to tell this is to try to turn the wheel the engine off (key in ACC or ON position so the steering lock doesn't engage) the steering will be stiff because the pump isn't running, but if the rack is going bad, you'll have a lot of play in the wheel and then feel a sharp 'stop' when you run out of gap between the gears. make sense?
Considering these cars are 30 years old now, the original rack & pinion has served its useful life and it "won't hurt" to replace it, but it's quite likely the rubber bushings are dead just due to old age. Labor-wise, you CAN replace the bushings without pulling out the steering rack, but it's a PITA. replacing the whole rack is a bigger PITA, but you can replace the bushings while you have the rack out of the car and it's no additional work.
HTH.
That said, the typical failure mode on a rack bushing will have the steering off-center after a bump. i.e. you're cruising down the road and the steering wheel is centered. Then you hit a bump or go around a corner and suddently you have to hold it 15deg off to make the car go straight.
There will also be some accompanying vagueness in the steering. With the engine off, you can usually cause the rack to move back and forth with relatively little effort on the wheel, then steering will get harder when the bushing is done sliding and the metal parts run into each other and the thing starts to actually steer the front wheels. Thus the steering will be 'mushy' for about 15 degrees vs. completely loose like a bad rack & pinion.
If the rack/pinion itself is worn, you can hold the wheel straight and the car will wander down the highway because there's a gap worn between the gear teeth. the easiest way to tell this is to try to turn the wheel the engine off (key in ACC or ON position so the steering lock doesn't engage) the steering will be stiff because the pump isn't running, but if the rack is going bad, you'll have a lot of play in the wheel and then feel a sharp 'stop' when you run out of gap between the gears. make sense?
Considering these cars are 30 years old now, the original rack & pinion has served its useful life and it "won't hurt" to replace it, but it's quite likely the rubber bushings are dead just due to old age. Labor-wise, you CAN replace the bushings without pulling out the steering rack, but it's a PITA. replacing the whole rack is a bigger PITA, but you can replace the bushings while you have the rack out of the car and it's no additional work.
HTH.
Last edited by Matt93SE; 04-14-2014 at 12:27 PM.
04-14-2014, 04:57 PM
#10
Very informative Matt. I think i'll take your advise and try that. Thanks for your help and input. Much appreciated. Just curious but did you make the end links and grounding kits or was that another Matt?
04-15-2014, 07:04 AM
#13
Oops. ya. math fail. I meant 20 yrs. so much for coming back on here after a year and sounding smart!
04-15-2014, 09:58 AM
#17
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
http://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wh...radius-619446/
"The problem with using too much scrub radius is that it introduces higher steering effort (not necessarily bad) and a strong tendency for the steering wheel to kick back (bad) or the car to pull to one side or the other (bad) anytime the grip at the front tires is not perfectly balanced. This is an especially disconcerting problem when braking hard over bumps; the steering feels like it's trying to beat you up. If anyone has ever driven a car with lots of scrub in the rain and hit a deep puddle with only one side of the car it probably scared you out of your wits as the car tried to launch itself into the gutter."
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