Also what is the best clutch made for the tranny?

 

One that slips a lot. If you mean new then OEM/stage 1/organic disc.

 

Alright I have everything ready to go into the car. By the end of the day tomorrow it may run finally.

List of what I've bought for the car.
Engine from a parts yard on ebay, new timing belt kit, front axles, power steering rack - I do believe it is recommended to just use dextron atf right?, because mighty car mods show'd it I got braided steel brake lines, battery, and new clutch & flywheel machined.

Is it a concern if theres rust on the axle part of the tranny? I used a wire brush to clean it off, and was wondering.

I can't wait until she runs tomorrow

 

changed he exhaust manifold studs? I'm surprised no one has mentioned about them. Hopefully they have been changed before it goes into the car.

 

Yes I have replaced them a few were broken on the newer engine, man those studs are expensive at nissan dealerships :v

Progress wasn't made today the mechanic had another car in the shop at the time my car is next to go in to be worked on.


Also anyone know of a steel braided line for the clutch? Or does it not matter.

 

So I've run into a bit pickle my engine still has the a/t bushing in there I see from a previous thread that its not needed, but the m/t is needed to align the clutch correctly. I'm going to try the bread method and see if I can get it out, otherwise I'll just leave it in there.

 

So the only progress made was transmission mounted to the engine, and that's it. Waiting for the mechanic whom I paid $400 too to finish the job. Along with getting air condition running in all. I've ordered the obx headers, a test pipe since I had one left over from a sentra It didn't fit the stock exhuast on that car it'll fit the obx, and then I'll just go to the local exhuast shop and get a catback from megan, and resonator from mangaflow, then I'll be good. Though depending on how it sounds I might put a high air flow cat on.

New studs are installed from nissan, $44 for 12 >.<

 

Can someone post some pictures on how the transmission is to be remounted, and how it should look like after? I need help figuring this out since the mechanic's brother is taking on the job since he has too much work to do, so his brother will be finishing it. How do those metal shim plate spacers/dust cover go back on?

 

find a FSM online...it should give you an idea of the layout.
also you can look on courtesy's web site and see how their parts are laid out.

 

Well it is almost time to get her done. It will probably be sometime this week. Two of those new exhaust studs broke so I was disappointed went to nissan again for a few newer ones, and this time I got 5 thicker ones somehow. So We'll have to drill out the broken ones again, and put those thicker ones in. 2 on the left side, 3 on the other. They broke, because my mechanic lifted the engine using the manifold on the L & R. Obviously not a good idea.

 

Bummer, not a good idea to lift the engine like that. I'm getting ready to pull the engine/trans out of the digimax next week though I've started removing some things.

When I pulled the engine/trans out of my parts car I used an engine hoist with nylon straps hooked to the engine mount brackets and lowered both to the floor.

Are you helping them put this engine in?

 

I'm helping a little bit with it. I'll have them use the mount brackets so we don't damage anything more on it. I've got new obx headers to replace the stock manifolds. I'll drive it like that to the alignment shop, then to the exhaust shop. I'll be a happy guy once she starts up. I'll get my moneys worth in this car.

 

I will be uploading a youtube video once this car is running, or even on the day we start it up for the first time. I think I'll paint the studs with that ceramic spray I'm using with the headers. I put anti-seize on them so that should be good as well for later on.

 

By the way how bad are these transmissions, and how often do they fail? RS5F50A

 

Shes alive!, posting pictures with a vid in the morning.
I need to finish adding exhaust

 

A test pipe can be built for let's see how much:
1. 1ft of T304 SS 2.5" tubing ($10.50)
2. 2 ea 2-bolt exhaust flanges ($9.99 ea)
3. 1 ea Copper 2.5" 2 bolt copper gasket ($9.99 ea)
Total= $40.47 (parts alone)

 

This might be too late, but... I got one from a seller on ebay. It was for a 240sx but the fittings are the same. There is a section of hard line that I removed too that kinda zig-zags.

 

http://youtu.be/ne7Vgkjhsfg

 

Another max resurrected. Gr8 job.

 

:golf clap: nice job man.

 

Thank you, now all I need to do is switch this aftermarket radio out for a sony so I can have aux for music, and add some better speakers in. Along with modifying the exhaust half of it is obx the other is factory. I will be replacing it as soon as I can. I lost my job so its all up to when I get my new job. Btw how do you remove the radio? Screws in the dash somewhere perhaps?

 

Bottom ones under the Cig lighter and astray, for a start. Those two are common among the center console of the early and later models.

 

Nice work bro.

What've you got going on there electrically? That unit is mounted to the battery should be inside the cabin, what is it, a small inverter? If those breast cancer awareness cables and crazy distribution block is a "ground kit", it's highly overkill. But I guess what's done is done.

 

 

Its a voltage stabilizer/monitor. Nice joke too. I plan on replacing the spark wires with blue ones. I like to colorize things.

 

the pink stuff looks to be vac tubing.

 

So now I am switching out the old compressor with a used one with warranty. I will be using r134a, but with a new condensor, drier. Using ester oil since it is compatible.

 

Good job going with the new condenser

 

Btw can you please tell me which is which on the low or high pressure side? I guess my mechanic will be able to tell me that when my drier arrives tomorrow.


This car drives pretty well just need to finish replacing the rest of the exhaust, and find out where this rattle is coming from. I think that sheet metal below the shifter arm is loose causing it to tap against it, but it could be something else. Quite annoying lol maybe its the exhaust I will look into that tomorrow.