custommaxi92

hellow other members i have a 1992 maxima gxe and the problem is when i drive my car the first 10 mins it runs beautiful then it seems after its get warmed up its runs bad very slow from a stop nd doesent gain speed

new parts

o2 sensor
maf
cat
injectors ive replaced/just had them checked out and every thing is normal....any thing helps thanks

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Have you tried doing a tune up? ie spark plugs, wires, Cap and rotor for the distributor and air filter? If a good tune up doesn't help you could try swaping the coil below the distributor or tps could be another culprit.

custommaxi92

these are the parts ive replaced
02 sensor
maf/new filter
plugs and wires
collant temp sensor
fuel injectors
timeing belt/waterpump/tensioner

and ive check the ecu got code 55 normal operation

its seem to have to do with once the car is warmed up because in the first 10 mins of driven runs like new then once its warmed up it has no acceleration at all even when flooring it.....

im thinking maby ill try replaceing the collant temp sensor pig tail bc its a lil broken the plastic is chiped on it but becides that im going crazyy with this issue

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Have you done the cap and rotor for the distributor?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

did you get a plug and play O2 sensor or a cheaper one where you splice it into the stock wiring?

weasel93

My GXE is doing the same thing and I want to add that I changed the knock sensor due to code and my coolant temp sensor as well. Also fixed a vacuum leak. Each of those things seemed to help the car for the remainder of that day. Then the next day, back to the same. For the first 10 minutes it runs better as well and then it seems that once the car gets up to Normal Operating Temperature so that the ECU starts taking readings from all the sensors that it feels more like a 4 cylinder. It has to downshift to a passing gear to go from 20 to 35 miles per hour!?!. I chimed in to let the original poster know that I feel his pain and also to share what I have also done to mine and the fix has not been permanent.

Could it be the ignition coil? Could the spark plugs be gapped wrong? Distributor/cap/plugs/wires are not that old for either of us it sounds like. Fuel pressure is good at the filter as well.

Hoping you guys can find something that will help us both. Hang in there my brother.

weasel93

Meant to also mention that mine was doing this and still passed emissions so I am pretty sure it isn't the cat, MAF, or oxygen sensor we are dealing with or I would have failed. Completely stumped.....to good of a car to have no power.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Interesting to see these VG's exhibit some classic VE-style lack of power head scratchers. Kind of strange I don't recall ever reading about stuff like this on VG's until just the past couple of years.

custommaxi92

no i havent trired the cap or rotor they seem to be in good condition but i will be getting new ones

custommaxi92

thanks brother yea man its a big head scratcher its ashame bc like you said the first 10 mins is like brand new then once the ecu takes over its goes all to hell later today im guna be swapping some harnes sensor pig tails and nd see if anything improves its has to be something stupid that wer not realizeing but i feel for you man these cars are to nice to run like this i just installed obx headers nd catback sound sick just sad i cant drive for more than 10mins

custommaxi92

and yes ive got the ntk one plug and play

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Usually a good tune up will usually fix most engine lag. You could also try checking and cleaning up the ground points but plugs, wires, air and fuel filter along with a cap and rotor will help bring some life back to it. Again you can also check the throttle body position sensor at the intake manifold and clean up the connections and make sure your wires are down all the way on your plugs and nothing is arcing causing a loss of power as this can also be an issue with hairline cracks on the distributor cap and rotors do wear over time. Remember these cars are over 20 yrs old lol. Strange how this only happens when it's warm and after 10 min. If I remember correctly there is something about loss of power when engine is cool and when warm somewhere in the fsm. Try checking the fsm to see if it can help with your diagnosis.

custommaxi92

yea see i never had a fsm i just ordered one today so hopefully i can find some info its just so strange how it can run soo perferct in the first 5 to 10 mins then just crap out here some symptoms what happens when its warm
no power at all its struugles to hit 60mph feel like it went from 160hp to about 30hp

also the exhaust gets louder nd starts to backfire

no trottle respone at all u gota floor it to get it to move

94gxeMaxima

had an 89 vg and had the same issue. ran beautiful when cold but once it warmed up it felt like it cut out on 1 then 2 cylinders. it turned out to be the spark plug wires grounding themselves on the manifold. it was weird idk why the temp would effect the wires.. anyway new wires did the trick

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

He's put on new wires but that was also a thought I suggested was checking to make sure they were secure and not arcing out as well as checking the distributor for any hair line cracks.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

I believe you can find the fsm here on the org. But if you check the classifieds in the 3rd Gen section there's a member that has an ecu and an fsm for sale. I wouldn't suggest getting the distributor or wires too wet but you could get a spray bottle and mist some water to look for any possible arcs and if it's causing backfire issues maybe have a compression test done aswell

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Ebay sells the paperback really cheap!

Maxtastic GXE

Sounds like when my distributor went bad (crank/cam sensor went bad inside) did you check the ignition module right below the distributor?

custommaxi92

the only thing i never replaced wuz the distributor nd the cap nd im also getting ngk wires i ordered them today so hopefully everything will get better ill keep you guys posted nd thanks for the support nd help you guys are aswome

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

You shouldn't need to replace the distributor itself unless you have a bad bearing but you would probably know it if you did. Just the cap and rotor. It's very simple to do. Good call on the NGK wires and not some cheap ones.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

This is a O2 sensor issue since once it's warm it starts running bad!

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

that's what i was thinking too...but he said he replaced it.

only other thing is the coolant temp sensor (ECU one)...or the plug..since they tend to get a little messed u over time.

custommaxi92

Hello guys just wana give an update I replaced the distributor duralast gold has solved my problem car is back to 100% big thanks to all of you for ur imput ))