I used the search bar (as per every forums rules ever) but i was seeing if i could get a more specific answer.

THURSDAY AFTERNOON

I gave my car a check up (fluids and fuses). I have a misfire and i know it's the injector. I changed an injector maybe 3 or four months back, and now it's the one next to it (number 1).

ANYWAYS, i change 1 or 2 fuses, and the car starts up normally. I relax and shoot the shizz till 5 when i go for work. Everything normal. I leave for work to the gym, then the gym to back home. Everything normal.

FRIDAY NIGHT

I leave work around 9pm. It's probably about 78 degrees. I drive maybe 8 miles to krispy kreme, spend 10 minutes in the store, come back out and now my car won't start. I get the sound that it's trying (not sure of the term, but it's not just the dead battery clicking sound, but the trying really hard sound.) and after three tries and stepping on the gas it struggles to start up. The rpm was around 200, then it finnaly jumped up to 800 and i pull out and drive home. I may have imagined this but i smelled a burning rubber type smell coming from the right side of the engine bay (driver side)


SATURDAY NIGHT

I drive to work. I leave work around 7pm. It's probably low 60s. Pretty cold(for florida). I drive 1 mile to publix. Then drive half a mile to the gas station. Put 20$ in the tank and NOW she won't start again. I pop the hood and there's a faint smell from the right side of the engine. I can't describe the smell. Not gas, not oil, could just be the smell of the engine. No burning rubber smell.


Key Notes


-Have one bad fuel injector.
-Car is idle-ing extra high when i put it in park. Starting at 1400, then slowly rises to 1700. Then eventually drops back to 1000.
-When i put it in drive idle drops down to 800, which has been pretty normal since i've had the car.
-Idle goes up and down a small bit when i turn the steering wheel left and right when in park. (also normal since i've had the car.
-Florida just got "cold".
-Car acceleration has been slower. Even when i put it in "power" mode. Like SLOWER slower.
-So for the problem has only happened at night time.




Anyone think they know what it could be?

 

I'd check typical tune-up items particularly the distributor cap and spark plug wires.

 

check for vacuum leaks, could be the idle problem. might be worth cleaning the MAF as well. you should probably have changed all of your injectors at the same as well

otherwise search in old threads in the 3rd gen section, unless im derping out i remember there was a thread about 1-2 years ago about some guy having his 3rd gen only act up at night like this when it was cold and i cant remember what it was

 

Check your coolant temp sensor. Car might be stuck in open loop and the idle never drops. it'll also cause starting issues. In my case the car ran rich as hell and hated starting one the cold season rolled around.

Check the usual tune up stuff too as previously suggested.

 

Lay off the Krispy Kreme and then you won't have to go to the gym. Problem solved.

 

Lol! I had A moment.... OF WEAKNESS



Side note. The car also has problems starting not only when cold, but when the temp is warm outside too. Nevertheless it's still low 70s.


The engine was hot, but the temperature outside was cold. Still had starting problems.

I read [this](https://maxima.org/forums/3rd-genera...ent-start.html) thread and the problem sounds EXACTLY the same.


They say

1. Vacuum leak
2. Coolant Temp Sensor
3. MAF

Gonna try the coolant temp sensor first. Doing my research now on the where it is, what i need, and how to do it.

 

Its super easy, very accessible - but this is in reference to the VG30. Its on the passenger side of the engine bay, for some reason I'm drawing a blank on the exact location, I'll have to go look to double check but its near where the upper radiator hose connects to the motor over there toward the right rear of the engine. Rectangular plug. Don't lose the metal clip!

Take it easy removing it too, it might be cold welded to the block and the brass fitting may break if you go hulk mode on it. Usually not an issue but if it fights you, just take your time. Make sure the engine is cold, you will lose coolant (obviously) but it'll suck if its warm/hot since it'll blow everywhere when you pop that sucker out. Shouldn't loset oo much if you're quick with the swap. Have your new part ready.

Make sure you get the SENSOR (for the ECU) not the SENDER (for the temp gauge on the dash.) The sensor is a two blade connector, the SENDER is a single blade. I made this mistake on another car once, so I always try to remind people if they aren't sure.

As far as testing goes, check the FSM for the procedure, technically you're supposed to remove it and check at a particular known temperature, at which point it should read a specific.... resistance? I can't recall.

FSM for 94 models is here but it contains info for both VG30 and VE30 engines, nothing really changed between 89 and 94 that would pertain to your issue so it should do you fine. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/

 

The coolant temp. Sensor for the vg is on the passenger side at the back of the upper intake manifold. Check to see if you have any play in the shifter. If it's an auto. The shifter bushings get worn and may not always start when you think it's in park. Sometimes you have to give it a little extra nudge up into park. Next time you find it won't start try putting it in neutral and starting it. If that's not the problem perhaps your fuel pump could be on its way out.

 

Thanks A TON Levsimus! Picked up the part for 15$ and (after using pliers and stripping the part to pieces) a wrench for 9$. It was SO simple!

I wonder how much it would charge to get this part done at a shop.

Starting problem is ALLL GONE!
I assumed this was it.



The black protective tube to this was broken but the wires didn't look damaged. Covered them in electrical tape.




This is the old one once i got it out. Was kind of a pain to get out, but once i got the right sized wrench it was a breeze.

 

Great to hear it man. Keep us posted if the problems return, but here's to them being solved!

Excellent!

 

Wow that sensor is looking pretty rough lol. That sensor also plays a big role in the operation of your fans kicking on and off. If you do find you have an issue starting try making sure the shifter is all the way in park if it's an auto. The shifter bushing can tend to wear causing a little bit of play in the shifter. Starting in neutral should work aswell if you find you have an issue again give that a try.