Timing Issue: 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE SOHC
12-09-2014, 07:03 PM
#1
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Timing Issue: 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE SOHC
I own a 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE with SOHC.
When I bought the car the person told me to only use 91 octane gasoline otherwise the timing would advance/retard to prevent knocking. Lately, I think I got some bad gas locally and I think the problem has reoccurred. I have taken the car to the shop and they checked the timing and indeed the electronic ignition has slightly retarded the timing by a couple of degrees to prevent knocking. Now I have cleaned out the gas tank, and made sure to use the proper super 91 octane gasoline. For whatever reason, the changes made to the ignition timing will not reset. The guys at the shop told me that "maybe" replacing the knock sensor might fix the issue. They also told me that I might need to replace my injector wiring harness for around 700-800 just for the part. There was some corrosion on the injectors which have been cleaned. Electronic ignition timing will still not reset even with cleaning and proper gas in the clean tank and driving the car around normally for a couple of months.
I contacted the original owner to ask them about this and he told me that there was a trick his son used with a Nissan Consult Tool that hooks to a laptop computer with software. After it is hooked up you can adjust the timing manually with the software and even reset it to what it was for 91 octane gas. In my town there are no Nissan Performance shops that have this kind of tool or never heard of it before. They want to charge me quite a bit to order whatever they need to perform the reset/repair.
I have researched online to find out what I need to purchase to do this myself, but everything seems very confusing to tell me what I really need to buy to hook up to my Maxima's CPU to reset the ignition timing. I think the car is using an ODB1. I think I need to purchase an RS232 serial plug adapter to the ODB1 for my laptop and the right software for Windows XP. That route seems to be almost as expensive as replacing the wiring harness and the knock sensor. I have researched as much as possible online before posting here to hopefully find a solution but everything seems confusing and vague to me to direct me to exactly what I need to purchase online, and I haven't found anyone that has had this exact same kind of problem with their Nissan Maxima ignition timing to hopefully reset it for the proper octane gasoline.
Does anyone here have any experience with reseting the Nissan Maxima electronic ignition timing with this kind of symptom? Cyl 1 appears to be the culprit misfiring, and the engine runs rough at idle while in drive. When the car is in park it idles enough to keep the car from stalling out at a red light. At high RPM the engine runs OK with just some hesitation occasionally. After driving it with the proper gas for about a month now the timing will not reset itself to when I bought the car. When I originally bought the car the engine light was off, and the timing was fine, so I am just trying to figure out a solution to reset the CPU. I have disconnected the battery overnight hoping to reset the timing, but it still the same problem with the retarded adv timing. Maybe this is a sensor I need to replace? The guys at the shop want to just have me leave it with them and they start billing me for trial and error, since they can't tell me exactly what it needs first. They aren't Nissan Specialists here. :S
If there a simple way to reset this manually without a Nissan Consult Tool? Is there a wire I need to disonnect on the engine? If not, what do I need to purchase to hook it up to my laptop? Again, I think it has an ODB1 connector, but I don't have an adapter with me to check it. If I need to buy one which one should I order online? What adapter works for this make/model Nissan Maxima to hook it too a Nissan Consult Tool?
To recap, here is what I have done so far:
Replaced the spark plugs
Replaced the spark wires
Cleaned out the gas tank
Cleaned the injectors of corrosion as best as possible.
Replaced with proper 91 octane gas
Disconnected the Battery to attempt to reset the ignition timing at the onboard CPU (No help there, and didn't reset the timing, and only briefly reset the engine check light)
Engine Light is on again after resetting the CPU.
The on-board diagnostic under the center console with the flashing light is throwing a general code for "misfiring", but no other codes are present.
Only other things I have not tried is replacing the knock sensor, and maybe using some injector cleaner in the gas. I don't think the wiring harness is the issue since the car was fine when I bought it, and no engine check light was present. It passed smog with flying colors too.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated and if it works I will even give you a donation on your paypal for a simple fix.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Techie
Middle of Nowhere, Arizona
When I bought the car the person told me to only use 91 octane gasoline otherwise the timing would advance/retard to prevent knocking. Lately, I think I got some bad gas locally and I think the problem has reoccurred. I have taken the car to the shop and they checked the timing and indeed the electronic ignition has slightly retarded the timing by a couple of degrees to prevent knocking. Now I have cleaned out the gas tank, and made sure to use the proper super 91 octane gasoline. For whatever reason, the changes made to the ignition timing will not reset. The guys at the shop told me that "maybe" replacing the knock sensor might fix the issue. They also told me that I might need to replace my injector wiring harness for around 700-800 just for the part. There was some corrosion on the injectors which have been cleaned. Electronic ignition timing will still not reset even with cleaning and proper gas in the clean tank and driving the car around normally for a couple of months.
I contacted the original owner to ask them about this and he told me that there was a trick his son used with a Nissan Consult Tool that hooks to a laptop computer with software. After it is hooked up you can adjust the timing manually with the software and even reset it to what it was for 91 octane gas. In my town there are no Nissan Performance shops that have this kind of tool or never heard of it before. They want to charge me quite a bit to order whatever they need to perform the reset/repair.
I have researched online to find out what I need to purchase to do this myself, but everything seems very confusing to tell me what I really need to buy to hook up to my Maxima's CPU to reset the ignition timing. I think the car is using an ODB1. I think I need to purchase an RS232 serial plug adapter to the ODB1 for my laptop and the right software for Windows XP. That route seems to be almost as expensive as replacing the wiring harness and the knock sensor. I have researched as much as possible online before posting here to hopefully find a solution but everything seems confusing and vague to me to direct me to exactly what I need to purchase online, and I haven't found anyone that has had this exact same kind of problem with their Nissan Maxima ignition timing to hopefully reset it for the proper octane gasoline.
Does anyone here have any experience with reseting the Nissan Maxima electronic ignition timing with this kind of symptom? Cyl 1 appears to be the culprit misfiring, and the engine runs rough at idle while in drive. When the car is in park it idles enough to keep the car from stalling out at a red light. At high RPM the engine runs OK with just some hesitation occasionally. After driving it with the proper gas for about a month now the timing will not reset itself to when I bought the car. When I originally bought the car the engine light was off, and the timing was fine, so I am just trying to figure out a solution to reset the CPU. I have disconnected the battery overnight hoping to reset the timing, but it still the same problem with the retarded adv timing. Maybe this is a sensor I need to replace? The guys at the shop want to just have me leave it with them and they start billing me for trial and error, since they can't tell me exactly what it needs first. They aren't Nissan Specialists here. :S
If there a simple way to reset this manually without a Nissan Consult Tool? Is there a wire I need to disonnect on the engine? If not, what do I need to purchase to hook it up to my laptop? Again, I think it has an ODB1 connector, but I don't have an adapter with me to check it. If I need to buy one which one should I order online? What adapter works for this make/model Nissan Maxima to hook it too a Nissan Consult Tool?
To recap, here is what I have done so far:
Replaced the spark plugs
Replaced the spark wires
Cleaned out the gas tank
Cleaned the injectors of corrosion as best as possible.
Replaced with proper 91 octane gas
Disconnected the Battery to attempt to reset the ignition timing at the onboard CPU (No help there, and didn't reset the timing, and only briefly reset the engine check light)
Engine Light is on again after resetting the CPU.
The on-board diagnostic under the center console with the flashing light is throwing a general code for "misfiring", but no other codes are present.
Only other things I have not tried is replacing the knock sensor, and maybe using some injector cleaner in the gas. I don't think the wiring harness is the issue since the car was fine when I bought it, and no engine check light was present. It passed smog with flying colors too.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated and if it works I will even give you a donation on your paypal for a simple fix.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Techie
Middle of Nowhere, Arizona
12-09-2014, 07:23 PM
#2
Unless you have broken wires or pins you have no need to replace the harness. Check the resistance on the injectors with a multi meter to see if each is between 10-14 ohms. You can adjust or retard the timing very easily. Just loosen the large screw at the base of the distributor were the slot is and get yourself a timing gun. If you don't know how take it to a shop that knows what they're doing because the mechanic that told you you need to replace your harness obviously doesn't know how to adjust your timing which isn't too hard on the vg and if your going to run atleast 91-93 octane you could even advance the timing a few degrees for a little extra pep. Sounds to me you may just have a faulty injector. These 3rd gen vg's are notorious for them at their age. Any questions just ask. Theres many helpful members here. No paypal needed. We're all here to help one another. By the way I just happened to notice your from Arizona. Any chance you know of any scrapyards or places in your area that have any clean rust free 3rd gens? I'm looking for a clean rust free rear subframe at a reasonable price that can ship to Canada. Thanks 
Last edited by ac max 92; 12-09-2014 at 07:41 PM.
12-09-2014, 07:42 PM
#3
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Thank you. I will give this a try. The guys at the general automotive shop here told me that the timing was almost off like it had jumped half a tooth, if that means anything to anyone here who knows. But then I researched this car and it has a chain instead of a belt (I think it has a chain?) and if anyone else here has any more advice or has had this kind of issue before with their Nissan Maxima 3rd generation to please let me know what they did to specifically fix it. I'm good with some minor repairs, so I can do most of the stuff myself, but I'm stuck at this point until I find someone who has had this kind of problem with the knock sensor retarding the timing electronically. And I can't understand why it won't reset when I put in the right type of gas again. Standing by.
-Techie
-Techie
Unless you have broken wires or pins you have no need to replace the harness. Check the resistance on the injectors with a multi meter to see if each is between 10-14 ohms. You can adjust or retard the timing very easily. Just loosen the large screw at the base of the distributor were the slot is and get yourself a timing gun. If you don't know how take it to a shop that knows what they're doing because the mechanic that told you you need to replace your harness obviously doesn't know how to adjust your timing which isn't too hard on the vg and if your going to run atleast 91-93 octane you could even advance the timing a few degrees for a little extra pep. By the way I just happened to notice your from Arizona. Any chance you know of any scrapyards or places that have any clean rust free 3rd gens? I'm looking for a clean rust free rear subframe at a reasonable price that can ship to Canada. Thanks
12-09-2014, 07:48 PM
#4
VG do not require 91 octane. VE30DE do but VG30E do not. you do not having a timing chain either, 92-94 SE Maxima had VE30DE engines with coilpacks and timing chain. 92-94 GXE had VG30E with distributor and timing belt
12-10-2014, 03:28 AM
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fl, USA
Posts: 249
Go pickup a coolant temp sensor at autozone and replace yours and see what happens - it's cheap enough. Stop talking to all the so call mechanics who don't even know if you have a belt or chain.
Check the injectors as mentioned before (10-14 ohms). It could have very well jumped the timing and you could check this by removing the front cover and setting the #1 piston to tdc and check the camshaft timing marks but do the easy stuff first.
Check the injectors as mentioned before (10-14 ohms). It could have very well jumped the timing and you could check this by removing the front cover and setting the #1 piston to tdc and check the camshaft timing marks but do the easy stuff first.
12-10-2014, 05:19 AM
#6
Thank you. I will give this a try. The guys at the general automotive shop here told me that the timing was almost off like it had jumped half a tooth, if that means anything to anyone here who knows. But then I researched this car and it has a chain instead of a belt (I think it has a chain?) and if anyone else here has any more advice or has had this kind of issue before with their Nissan Maxima 3rd generation to please let me know what they did to specifically fix it. I'm good with some minor repairs, so I can do most of the stuff myself, but I'm stuck at this point until I find someone who has had this kind of problem with the knock sensor retarding the timing electronically. And I can't understand why it won't reset when I put in the right type of gas again. Standing by.
-Techie
-Techie
Last edited by ac max 92; 12-10-2014 at 05:38 AM.
12-10-2014, 09:40 AM
#7
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Thank you for all the comments to my original post so far. I think I am starting to develop a clear picture of what might be happening here with some of these responses so far...
Perhaps something is putting ECU into diagnostics mode, retarding the ignition. I will try replacement of the temp sensor and see if this helps, but if the temp sensor was bad wouldn't that throw a code to tell me the temp sensor was bad, and just the misfiring code? Right now I am only getting a code of a misfire and nothing else is being reported as bad. I was even thinking of just changing out the cap and rotor since those are pretty easy to do and don't cost that much either. Already did the Plug Wires and the Spark Plugs.
If anyone has any other ideas please keep posting them for me while I try to figure this out hopefully.
-Techie
Perhaps something is putting ECU into diagnostics mode, retarding the ignition. I will try replacement of the temp sensor and see if this helps, but if the temp sensor was bad wouldn't that throw a code to tell me the temp sensor was bad, and just the misfiring code? Right now I am only getting a code of a misfire and nothing else is being reported as bad. I was even thinking of just changing out the cap and rotor since those are pretty easy to do and don't cost that much either. Already did the Plug Wires and the Spark Plugs.
If anyone has any other ideas please keep posting them for me while I try to figure this out hopefully.
-Techie
Go pickup a coolant temp sensor at autozone and replace yours and see what happens - it's cheap enough. Stop talking to all the so call mechanics who don't even know if you have a belt or chain.
Check the injectors as mentioned before (10-14 ohms). It could have very well jumped the timing and you could check this by removing the front cover and setting the #1 piston to tdc and check the camshaft timing marks but do the easy stuff first.
Check the injectors as mentioned before (10-14 ohms). It could have very well jumped the timing and you could check this by removing the front cover and setting the #1 piston to tdc and check the camshaft timing marks but do the easy stuff first.
12-10-2014, 10:54 AM
#8
These cars aren't as prone to throwing codes as much as these newer vehicles even when there is a misfire. Adjust your timing at the distributor and find your bad injector and replace it and you should be good. I'm not so sure there's anything wrong with your ecu and that its effecting your timing at all. It just sounds like you have a typical misfire and id bank on it being one or more injectors.
12-10-2014, 12:38 PM
#9
Thank you for all the comments to my original post so far. I think I am starting to develop a clear picture of what might be happening here with some of these responses so far...
Perhaps something is putting ECU into diagnostics mode, retarding the ignition. I will try replacement of the temp sensor and see if this helps, but if the temp sensor was bad wouldn't that throw a code to tell me the temp sensor was bad, and just the misfiring code? Right now I am only getting a code of a misfire and nothing else is being reported as bad. I was even thinking of just changing out the cap and rotor since those are pretty easy to do and don't cost that much either. Already did the Plug Wires and the Spark Plugs.
If anyone has any other ideas please keep posting them for me while I try to figure this out hopefully.
-Techie
Perhaps something is putting ECU into diagnostics mode, retarding the ignition. I will try replacement of the temp sensor and see if this helps, but if the temp sensor was bad wouldn't that throw a code to tell me the temp sensor was bad, and just the misfiring code? Right now I am only getting a code of a misfire and nothing else is being reported as bad. I was even thinking of just changing out the cap and rotor since those are pretty easy to do and don't cost that much either. Already did the Plug Wires and the Spark Plugs.
If anyone has any other ideas please keep posting them for me while I try to figure this out hopefully.
-Techie
12-10-2014, 07:33 PM
#10
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Posts: 6
Okay, I could only check as much as I could this afternoon off from work. When I checked the temp coolant sensor (there are two sensors on the intake attached to the engine) one of them has a cracked/broken plastic housing on the adapter. I have re-made a new housing for the adapter attachment to the coolant temp sensor, then reattached it, and I am currently trying to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery overnight. Hopefully this will pull the CPU out of diagnostic mode with the retarded timing. If this doesn't work I will replace the sensors (temp and knock) next if it isn't just a bad connection/wiring. I didn't know the coolant sensor is also known to be the "master" sensor for this computer and very critical for ignition timing. Thanks again for all the advise so far, and I will keep you guys posted what fixes this problem.
-Techie
-Techie
12-10-2014, 08:01 PM
#11
I seriously doubt your timing is retarded by the ecu and disconnecting your battery probably isn't going to help. Heck if you feel the timing is retarded advance it. Ive already mentioned to you where to advance and retard the timing. If you dont have a timing gun take it to a shop to do it. It will literally take about 10 minutes. Check the resistance on your injectors it sounds like you just have a mis on one or more cylinders. I don't even think you really needed to go through the trouble of removing the gas from the tank. You could have just ran a higher octane at your next fill up but I'm sure you'll eventually figure this out.
Last edited by ac max 92; 12-10-2014 at 08:28 PM.
12-11-2014, 03:14 AM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fl, USA
Posts: 249
I ran 87 octane in my 92 for years and never had a problem so you're right on that ac max. Changing the distributor cap and brush will definitely be a benefit, especially if they haven't been replaced in a while. I change my cap, brush, pcv and coolant temp sensor every year. I am sure someone will argue it's necessary but that's just how I maintain my max.
While you are at it, check the connector at the maf if it's corroded and check the grounds on the IM. Ensure they are clean and tight. Good luck.
While you are at it, check the connector at the maf if it's corroded and check the grounds on the IM. Ensure they are clean and tight. Good luck.
Last edited by Tiniform; 12-11-2014 at 03:17 AM.
12-11-2014, 07:47 PM
#14
The 2 cts you mentioned (one goes to the gauge cluster the larger to the ecu). The System runs in closed loop (off the cts) until it warms up to know how much fuel & air [idle] to give the engine. After that it's on the MAF & O2 sensors.
12-11-2014, 08:41 PM
#15
Not sure that the maf or 02 sensor would be the culprit if he passed emissions with flying colours unless it so happened that he had a broken wire on the harness at the 02 after he done emissions. If he's got a flash code for a misfire and he's changed plugs and wires etc. He should look at the injectors unless he installed his wires in the wrong order which would cause a misfire too.
12-12-2014, 09:22 AM
#16
I'm curious what in the world kind of program this is that you mention hooks up to the consult port and a laptop computer?
I've never heard of any widely available software along those lines for the 3rd gen other than Nistune.
codetechie - can you not ask the original owner what program this was on the laptop? Was it Nistune?
Either way, doesn't the VG just have a distributor, and why wouldn't adjusting the distributor position change timing?
I've never heard of any widely available software along those lines for the 3rd gen other than Nistune.
codetechie - can you not ask the original owner what program this was on the laptop? Was it Nistune?
Either way, doesn't the VG just have a distributor, and why wouldn't adjusting the distributor position change timing?
12-12-2014, 01:29 PM
#17
I got a Cousult reader and it came with a CD.
Because the part came from China, I ain't touching it.
But since it has a DB9 Serial interface, all one needs it a Serial port, baud rate, flow control, and I way to start it.
(I have yet to do that.)
Because the part came from China, I ain't touching it.
But since it has a DB9 Serial interface, all one needs it a Serial port, baud rate, flow control, and I way to start it.
(I have yet to do that.)
12-12-2014, 02:17 PM
#18
I'm curious what in the world kind of program this is that you mention hooks up to the consult port and a laptop computer?
I've never heard of any widely available software along those lines for the 3rd gen other than Nistune.
codetechie - can you not ask the original owner what program this was on the laptop? Was it Nistune?
Either way, doesn't the VG just have a distributor, and why wouldn't adjusting the distributor position change timing?
I've never heard of any widely available software along those lines for the 3rd gen other than Nistune.
codetechie - can you not ask the original owner what program this was on the laptop? Was it Nistune?
Either way, doesn't the VG just have a distributor, and why wouldn't adjusting the distributor position change timing?
12-13-2014, 09:16 AM
#19
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I'm still working right now and don't have time to take it down again to the shop. The last time I took it to the general automotive shop they checked the misfire (since it is throwing only a misfire code) and found it was on Cyl No. # 1. And that the distributer has been advanced as far as it can manually go to compensate for the misfire. They told me that it seems like ECU is in diagnostic mode and retarding the timing from the bad gas and won't resume after I put the correct gas in a cleaned-out tank, and perhaps the timing belt has jumped half a tooth. Or it could be the wiring harness. Or the knock sensor. They want me to leave it with them and start charging me $85 an hour to trial/error a solution for this issue they don't understand anymore than I do. The original owner told me this happens and to use the Nissan Consult Tool to reset the timing adv automatically with the ECU computer. I don't have that tool. Neither does my mechanics here. I'm in the middle of nowheresville.
I just put some Lucus Oil in the gas tank and filled it up with 91 Octane from a reputable gas station in town. Reset the CPU and engine check light. Reseated the Coolant Temp Sensor which was broken. We shall see how it goes for the next few days.
If anyone has anything else to offer in advice or knows this kind of condition in a 3rd gen Maxima with SOHC, I could really use it. Thanks. I don't understand why it won't reset after the knock sensor kicked in and retarded the timing. Or why it won't reset after I put in the proper gas for this adjusted timing. Any ideas? Thanks.
I just put some Lucus Oil in the gas tank and filled it up with 91 Octane from a reputable gas station in town. Reset the CPU and engine check light. Reseated the Coolant Temp Sensor which was broken. We shall see how it goes for the next few days.
If anyone has anything else to offer in advice or knows this kind of condition in a 3rd gen Maxima with SOHC, I could really use it. Thanks. I don't understand why it won't reset after the knock sensor kicked in and retarded the timing. Or why it won't reset after I put in the proper gas for this adjusted timing. Any ideas? Thanks.
That's exactly what i mentioned to him. Let him know to advance or retard the timing at the distributor. I dont know why the mechanic he saw couldnt or didnt know how to do that for him. Im not even so sure his timing is off from what i gather from his original post. It seems to me he has a misfire and it's leading him to believe the timing is off.
12-13-2014, 01:24 PM
#21
This entire thread sounds like a defective detonation sensor....Iit is being retarded it's because the timing is to far advanced....I run 15* btdc on my VQG with no problems...Check your detonation sensor, repalce that sorry a$$ ignition coil (preferably with an Oil filled Coil) check you distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs for condition
12-18-2014, 10:58 AM
#22
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So far so good. I have re-seated all the sensors and all the injectors. I put in another fresh tank of premiem 91 octate gas and dumped a ton of lucus oil in the gas tank as well, to clean out everything. It is running much better now. I think the "main" coolant temp sensor (or the main sensor) was the culprit originally. I haven't had time to take it to the shop to have them readjust the timing, but it sounds like the timing is starting to reset itself.
The only time I have a misfire now on that cyl no#1 is when I am stopped at a red light for more than half a minute. Then it misfires and causes an engine check light to turn on. After I drive it for a few seconds again the engine light turns off. Any ideas? Do you think replacing the injector is the solution? Thank you for all your help guys!
The only time I have a misfire now on that cyl no#1 is when I am stopped at a red light for more than half a minute. Then it misfires and causes an engine check light to turn on. After I drive it for a few seconds again the engine light turns off. Any ideas? Do you think replacing the injector is the solution? Thank you for all your help guys!
01-10-2015, 10:29 AM
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 76
I am the original owner of a 1994 GXE with 109,000 miles and made the mistake of replacing the injectors one by one first 2 times. Started going bad around 65,000 miles. I replaced all 6 at once two years ago and haven't had a problem since. I'm not a car expert but I can tell you I went through hell with this. Changed the distributor, changed the spark plugs, changed the wires and the problem just kept coming back. Six new injectors off Amazon it's $70 each back then and my mechanic who was willing to do it for 400 bucks because he felt bad for me solved my problem for good. No issues and it's been about 2 1/2 years. New exhaust system new engine mounts and the car feels as smooth as it ever has.
If you go this route, do yourself a favor and replace the injector o rings and the two rubber hoses and clamps that make up part of the fuel rail...those rubber hoses now seep some gas when it goes below 32°, so I may have to rip the whole plenum off again.
Great cars, but at 20 years, they need a lot of maintenance of rubber parts. The fuel injectors and the window regulators are definite weak spot with the car as well. So if you have original injectors, I suggest you change them.
This weekend's project is to try to figure out what size the leaking transmission cooling hoses are on this car and what clamps I should use and hope that the connection at the radiator isn't the problem. It's either 5/16 or 11/32 which I guess is just one 32nd off, but I'd rather get it right than have more problems and leaks.
If you go this route, do yourself a favor and replace the injector o rings and the two rubber hoses and clamps that make up part of the fuel rail...those rubber hoses now seep some gas when it goes below 32°, so I may have to rip the whole plenum off again.
Great cars, but at 20 years, they need a lot of maintenance of rubber parts. The fuel injectors and the window regulators are definite weak spot with the car as well. So if you have original injectors, I suggest you change them.
This weekend's project is to try to figure out what size the leaking transmission cooling hoses are on this car and what clamps I should use and hope that the connection at the radiator isn't the problem. It's either 5/16 or 11/32 which I guess is just one 32nd off, but I'd rather get it right than have more problems and leaks.
Last edited by khakuda; 01-10-2015 at 10:32 AM.
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