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Turbo VG swapped stanza

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Old 09-21-2017, 06:09 PM   #201
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its not the dead injector so much as its the orings not being fully seated into the lower intake. im worried about a fuel vapor leak/fire. since i need new injectors anyway i just ordered a vq rail and injectors for 30 bucks shipped. just couldnt pass it up.... probably gonna be a huge pain in the *** to get to work correctly but its the cheapest and will probably be the easiest way to redo the rails so they wont leak. fire is a gigantic phobia of mine so i would rather take the precaution than end up losing everything.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:51 AM   #202
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Yeah, I drove my VE home about 15 miles once on only 3 injectors. I had the car sitting at my brother's place and finally had to bring it home. I had forgotten that I'd unplugged the entire rear injector bank and was puzzled why it was running so poorly. It never did die on me though the whole way. Got it home and popped the hood and had d'oh moment remembering I had the entire rear bank unplugged
same here. fllippin nissan decided that it would be funny to have a transmission plug exactly the same as the injector harness and have them located next to each other.
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Old 09-23-2017, 11:53 PM   #203
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this is where the car is at right now. i think im basically gonna totally scrap this whole setup and use the top feed vq rails so i can get as much clamping pressure on the seals as possible so i never have to worry about leaks.





the plan for the new injectors since they are slightly larger than the stock ones is to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and dial the fuel pressure back a little bit. if i cant get it to run well with that ill just pull the trigger on the megasquirt install that i was gonna wait to do until i ran the car on the stock stuff. im sure everyone would like to see how to install megasquirt, i know i did before i installed it on my Z with absolutely no help lol
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Old 10-05-2017, 08:48 PM   #204
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Making any headway with the fuel injectors?
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:12 PM   #205
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Making any headway with the fuel injectors?
ive had a lot of stuff going on lately, might have a much better job doing what i love which is going to really put the stanza in overdrive cause ill not only have more money but more car related resources for performance parts. cant make any promises just yet but as far as the fuel rails go im about halfway done with them, i wanna keep it all in one update which is why its been so long but they should be all done soon.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:36 PM   #206
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i was gonna make this all one post but i have way too many pictures and splainin to do so ill break it up i guess. this is the fuel rails as they arrived in the mail. in order to fit them onto the intake i had to cut the metal tube that connects the two rails to each other which i spent a lot of time making sure was absolutely necessary lol



idk what these things in the middle of the rails are, i thought they may be regulators but they dont actually impede fuel flow at all so my second thought was that they may be some kind of diaphragms that compress once fuel pressure is reached and then work almost like capacitors in helping prevent fuel pressure drop when the demand rises. idk i didnt really care enough to research it i just chopped them off lol



here they are chopped off.




like i said i was probably going to scrap these rails but before i did that i realized it would be easier for me to base the new fuel rail setup on the old one instead of trying to totally reengineer everything in some new way. i considered converting my fuel system to returnless because thats how these rails are designed but i would need a new kind of regulator in the tank and possibly a different fuel pump so the cheaper and easier option was just to convert the rails to return style and retain everything else the way it was on the car.



heres the idea



these injectors use this little bracket to hold them in place for some reason, i had already made little blanks for this size of injector when i did the fuel rails on my z31 so all i had to do was cut the groove into the blank that holds the little bracket in place.



i couldnt cut the groove with my parting tool because it was too wide and to grind a HSS tool to this thin of a profile would take a long time and be a waste of material so as usual i made some janky thing from random **** i had lying around.

heres my parting tool next to a sawzall blade.



this is that same sawzall blade after cutting it to the same shape as my parting tool.



a width comparison



using the tool




heres the blank after the groove was cut



both blanks with the clips in them.



orings from the new fuel rails on the blanks



mocked up on the intake



next thing i had to address was the lower oring seat (which i actually addressed right away but for the sake of the thread i am talking about it now) the injectors have this plastic thing that retains the round orings in place.



the plastic retainer is press fit over a ledge that keeps it from coming back off and is tight enough to not even really spin. fortunately its a relatively brittle plastic so i just used some pliers to snap it off. heres the injector without the plastic retainer (looks exactly the same as the injectors on my z)



and here is the injector with the lower oring that my lower intake manifold uses. its a surprisingly good fit, i think these injectors may be desinged to be used with these types of orings and the plastic retainer is just to use the other type.



i got a lot more progress done with the mounting of the rails but im going to put all of that into one post once the rails are fully finished. should be this week for sure.

while i was at the junkyard getting plugs for these injectors as i was leaving i found this pile of suspension stuff just sitting on the ground discarded. i didnt think anything of it at first bit the lower knuckle mounts caught my eye and looked similar to what the stanza uses. i figured it was all for a honda or something and just happened to be a similar design but grabbed it anyway, i have a bunch of stuff to scrap soon anyway so its basically just free scrap at the very least.



i looked up the part numbers on them and wouldnt you know it.... its from a sentra. the same car i originally got all of my 5 speed stuff that bolted right in. so in the next few days ill be exploring my options with this stuff and possibly modifying them to lower the stanza a few inches but retain an essentially stock amount of suspension travel. more on that later on.
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:21 PM   #207
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Wow. It seems like every part of the car you work on, you end up making your own parts. Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:43 PM   #208
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Dennis if i had the time and the money i would just build my car entirely from scratch, only problem is it would either never be finished or be total garbage so instead i do this.












it looks like the mounts are crooked, because they are relative to each other, but they hold the rails in nearly the exact same place and angle relative to the lower seals. i was kind of limited on how to mount up the rails (hence the seemingly inaccessible bolts which i made a tool to tighten up lol) and really just stopped caring about how it looks since its gonna end up being hard to see anyway. i do plan on sanding down the cut off parts of the tabs that are still on the plenum tho.













im MUCH more confident in this setup and the injector seals. they all feel tight but still have just a little bit of wiggle so they arent being stressed or anything. using the blanks to line everything up kept the alignment and pressure really uniform across all of the injectors as well. all thats left to do is weld on the ends of the rails and then slap it all back on the car. best part of this rail setup is i can install them onto the intake and then install the intake on the car instead of having to wrestle around in the engine bay with the rails.

Last edited by Nate Boslet; 10-13-2017 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:45 PM   #209
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fuel rails are done.











so at some point this week im going to throw it all back in and see if this **** will actually run so the next post will contain either:

A. a video

or

B. an explanation of what went wrong.
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:05 PM   #210
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Nice, haven't checked on this in a while (to busy with my stuff) thought about doing VQ injectors on mine when I put in the MS3/MS3X but needed her running so didn't have time to mess with it for now, the things in the middle of the rail are dampeners, due to the return less set up on the VQs they have pressure issues from the injector pulses. What you might want to do is stick with the factory return set up, Y off the input side like it is from the factory put the regulator and return back on, does a couple things 1. gives you even feed on both rails 2. you will have a fuel temp (since I assume you are doing a after market ECU) 3. makes it super simple set up
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:20 AM   #211
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made it this far and attempted to start the car annnnnnddddddddddddd






.....no fuel pump.......

now before you load up your tomato slingshots im like 99% sure what the problem is. the ecu is on all the time when the battery is connected and the pump hasnt primed from key on at all ever. i rewired the inhibitor switch to get my reverse lights to work and then just hard wired all of the other things i needed in there so they just worked all the time, i think somewhere in there i missed the neutral switch or something and the ecu isnt happy and wont run the pump (which it never really did, only if i spun the distributor.. not sure what thats about lol) so thats where im at now. im sure it wont take long to figure out.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:34 AM   #212
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Boo!!!!!


Try again
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:17 PM   #213
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Boo!!!!!


Try again
lmao i know im just as impatient as you are. i did crank it over last night a few times tho and the compression sounds really good now that the injectors are sealed up right. it should run half decent its just gonna be a little rich for a while till i megasquirt it and now that i have a new job and can actually afford stuff that will be happening a lot sooner than expected.

also...... turbo is DEFINITELY happening sooner rather than later.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:58 PM   #214
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made it this far and attempted to start the car annnnnnddddddddddddd

.....no fuel pump.......

now before you load up your tomato slingshots im like 99% sure what the problem is. the ecu is on all the time when the battery is connected and the pump hasnt primed from key on at all ever. i rewired the inhibitor switch to get my reverse lights to work and then just hard wired all of the other things i needed in there so they just worked all the time, i think somewhere in there i missed the neutral switch or something and the ecu isnt happy and wont run the pump (which it never really did, only if i spun the distributor.. not sure what thats about lol) so thats where im at now. im sure it wont take long to figure out.
In a stock Maxima when you go to start the engine, the fuel pump primes for maybe 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and stops if you don't start the engine. When the engine starts, the ECU gets pulses from either the distributor or the camshaft sensor (maybe both, not 100% sure) and this tells the ECU to keep sending power to the fuel pump.

If the initial prime isn't happening for whatever reason, cranking the engine would cause the pulses and the ECU would turn on the fuel pump.

It sounds like you don't have all the wire connected to the ECU and I suspect this may be why the pump doesn't run at all.
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:08 AM   #215
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In a stock Maxima when you go to start the engine, the fuel pump primes for maybe 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and stops if you don't start the engine. When the engine starts, the ECU gets pulses from either the distributor or the camshaft sensor (maybe both, not 100% sure) and this tells the ECU to keep sending power to the fuel pump.

If the initial prime isn't happening for whatever reason, cranking the engine would cause the pulses and the ECU would turn on the fuel pump.

It sounds like you don't have all the wire connected to the ECU and I suspect this may be why the pump doesn't run at all.
yeah i was spinning the distributor by hand and noticed the pump would turn on when i did that but it never primed. i dont think the pump turned on at all so i think youre right there is a circuit that i changed or broke when i messed with the inhibitor switch. im going to start by getting the ecu to turn on and off with the key and then go back through all of the fuel pump circuits till i can get it to turn on the way its supposed to.
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