angus1x

Anyone know where to find the info on the parts number for the EMC?

angus1x

Ok,went to Nissan yesterday and took my ECM to see about getting it flashed.The parts guy was very nice and helpful,but couldn't find anything thats still available through Nissan.
He actually had to find a CD he had made for himself to even find the part for my Max.
Anyway turns out the EMC has been discontented through Nissan.
He did tell me the numbers stamped on the case didn't mean anything as far as ordering a ECM,said he had to look for it using the vin-and model #.
He said they have a very good teck guy there with experience analyzing problems with the older models and he thought if I brought it there ,installed on the running car he could even re-flash the ECM.
He said there were over 30 diff manufacturers for the 94 se max.
He printed out all the #ers and my model,part and vin for me and I took it to o-rillies to see what they showed.Seems they only had one part number for the 94 and he couldn't even say if it was for thee se,or ve models.
Plan to take it to the dealer for the analyzing.Said the cost was $125.At this point thats not much more considering the thousands I've spent on the car over the last 25-18 years trying to resolve this problem.
Just wish some of you experts could go with me to ask the right questions and understand the answers.
.................Steve

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I really don't think I would bother wasting big money trying to buy an ECU from a parts store or even dealership or anything like that. All you need is a VE auto ECU. There's a bunch of different part numbers for it but there's almost no chance there's much - if any - functional difference between them. Just grab a used one from a JY or a member here, or there were some on eBay last I remember. Again you just need to make sure it's a VE auto. Hell a VE 5 speed ECU might work for all I know too, as the auto ECU's work fine in the manuals. The auto transmission has its own separate "brain" box.

I would really be interested to see what the dealer says after they look at it. I've never taken any of mine to the dealer because I just assume I'll waste a bunch of money for them to tell me it needs new coil packs or MAF or some other part I'd already replaced/tested.

angus1x

Got it back from Nissan dealer yesterday.
They had what was described as master Nissan mechanic that said he would make a project of it and would get it straightened out.
That was over a year ago and he said he didn't know what else to try.
Only thing I know to do is try to part it out.
Sure is ashame after all the time and $ I have sunk into it but I don't have anymore options unless someone here wants to give it a try.
Still a nice car,probable be a classic before I could ever get it fixed though.
Anyway thanks for all the help and suggestions when I was active here a couple years ago.
Steve DeBord
Monticello Ky

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

If your set on keeping the car find a vg engine with harness and ecu and do another swap. The ve's are pretty finicky not to mention the vtc clacking. The vg's are a pretty descent and pretty solid reliable engine. Might have been an option to save the amount you probably already put in to diagnose the issue. That's a nice clean car from what I see in the pics you posted. It would be a shame to part it out. If I were to buy it cheap as is I'd just swap in a vg. I find it pretty odd a nissan master mechanic couldn't diagnose the issue especially if he's aged and worked on these generations. I know someone here in Ontario that would diagnose and fix your issue but I'm not sure what the cost would be. Sorry to hear your to a point of giving up on it. I'm sure it's been a frustrating journey.

angus1x

Still fooling with the Max.
Wondering if anyone here has ever replaced the ECM on this type car with something like a Stand-Alone Programmable Engine Management System ?
Would probable try one because nothing else seems to help.

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

Not a bad way to spend $10,000.

angus1x

So Hectic,
Did you spend $10.000 on installing one on a Max?
Anyone else find a cheaper way to do it?

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

You should be able to just find a used ve ecm out there somewhere. Otherwise it'll probably be cheaper just to do a full swap with a vg engine, tranny and ecm than it would be to do a stand alone and have it tuned. You could probably get the vg parts for about 800 from a jdm supplier or less if you find a used vg and you'd have some more spare parts out of it too.

angus1x

THX AC,
I've bought at least 3 different ECM boxes over the 10-15 years I've been fooling with this Max.
Hate to give up on the engine that I had shipped from Japan with only 3-4 thousand miles on it.
Got to be some way to control the fire and fuel without the factory ECM. Bet they don't use the factory ECM on the racing engines they run.
Figured someone on this forum would have some knowledge of what I'm needing.

maximagician

looking a your pictures again ,see the hose going into the intake tube with the brass pipe showing? normally the brass part is not showing(the picure with purple valve covers has it fitted normal)it goes further in the tube pointed towards the engine

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

CLEAN ALL YOUR CONNECTORS! THEN PACK THEM w/Dielectric grease or Dow Corning 4

angus1x

Been about a year sense done anything to the Max,still got too many other projects going on to give it any shop space at this time.Just letting everyone know it's still on the back burner with hope for the future.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I glanced through the pages. Just thinking outside the box a little, did anyone every check engine oil pressure?

angus1x

Chris,Hadn't checked oil pressure other than looking at gages when running.
Are you saying low pressure would cause engine fluctuation like I have described?
I know some type engines have low pressure shutoff and my diesel truck engine has high-pressure oil pump that opens the injectors,
but don't know anything about something like that on the max.
Thx,Steve

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Looking back and reading more thoroughly, I did initially mistake a comment you made about your original engine (VTC clacking) as one of the issues you were having with this new engine.
If you have an actual mechanical oil pressure gauge and it's reading properly, then I don't think you need to check pressure. Low oil pressure might not be triggering a warning light, but would be enough to cause issues with the lifters not opening fully. But, you'd hear this as a ticking sound in the top end.
I'm just trying to think outside the box - along the lines of going to the doctor and getting triaged. So, on a car, check oil pressure, compression, and fuel pressure.
If you're not getting any noises and the engine runs fine at times, compression and oil pressure are certainly not likely to show any issues. However, I didn't see mention of checking fuel pressure other than changing out the fuel pump and some discussion about that. Which makes me wonder if you're fuel pressure regulator is bad or something within that system. It's been a long time and I'm most familiar with the VG, but the setup was pretty interesting. If I remember correctly, the 3rd gen VG used a relay solenoid and a vacuum reservoir to control the fuel pressure regulator. If there is a cracked line or relay is bad, then (as I best remember) the loss of vacuum increases pressure and subsequently, vacuum decreases pressure. Which might explain why when you drive aggressively it runs fine but then at low rpms and idle it stumbles and stalls.

I apologize if these things have been checked.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

It's your Fuel pressure regulator bouncing off the seat due to the higher pressure fuel pump! I used a Nismo universal straight fuel rail fitting that eliminated the factory Fuel pressure regulator/my Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator and installed an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Fuel injection from Summit racing) and it fixed my bouncing Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator that had my car bucking and the idle was surging/bucking like crazy as well from me installing a Walbro Performance fuel pump (190L/hr)....Good luck I realize this is an old thread but hopefully it's helpful!

maximagician

anyone know if this tube IS backward like it looks in his picture ,
would it pull air from directly behind the MAF or shoot air at the MAF from directly behind it?

maximagician

reposting your pics from page 1

maximagician

[QUOTE=gp540;9133403]
/QUOTE]

now heres a correct PCV to air intake tube connection,it will keep the PCV air shooting away from the MAF towards throttle body

angus1x

Hey maximagician,Think I see what you are seeing now,didn't in the previous post.I'heading out right now to look at the hose ur talking about.
Thx and I will report back ASAP.

angus1x

Ok,corrected the PCV tube and seems to take care of the falling out at low rpm.Ran it for over an hour with really smooth idling and up to 2300 rpms.
Think I have something new going on now,runs and idles and runs great until rpm gets to 2400 then brakes up and surges really bad if you keep trying to increase fuel,but smooths right back up and runs great below that rpm.This behavior,whether idling and giving gas or driving.
I tried to driving and runs great through the gears as long as u stay under 2400 rpm.
Any Ideas on what action to take next?
Hoping maximagician and acmax 92 still reading this post along with everyone else thats been helping last couple years.
​​​​​​​This fourm only hope I have left to ever get my max strightened out.Thanks Guys !!!!!

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Are all of your injectors the proper cc for a ve and possibly not the wrong injectors say for a vg? Also are they all seated properly and the proper fuel pump put in. Sounds like possibly either bad/cracked vacume lines somewhere or maybe dumping too much fuel when giving throttle above 2400 rpm. Also trying to recall but did you swap the maf at any point or put in a new pcv valve when you corrected the hose?

angus1x

AC,Checked injectors,did vacuum test and have tried new Maf and replacement Maf.Even bought Map on ebay off good running engine just like mine.
Could you tell me how to post video on this forum? I have an I-pad that I think I could get video of the engine running and show the response when giving gas above 2400 rpm.Thinking you could tell more from hearing and seeing it than me trying to ex-plane whats happening.
THX Steve

angus1x

A friend that runs repair shop here in town said he had two in the last month that was doing same thing as I described to him and said it was knock sensor on them both.
Any feed back on that?
Steve

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

I'm not good at posting vids either but you could try taking a vid and when you post a reply you can see a pic option on the top of the page your typing in. I've just always clicked on it and posted pics that way but I'm sure there's some people that use a different method like photo bucket or something. As for your knock sensor it would retard the timing if it's going or gone bad. You could try replacing it for what it's worth. They're not very expensive and can still be found on eBay. I'm not 100% after moving but I may still have a new one with the harness if I can find it. I originally picked it up for my vg at the time but it was for a ve. I believe on the ve it's below the intake manifold between the heads and isn't overly hard to replace though someone with more experience on the ve would know better or you could search here on the forum. I'm sure there's a thread somewhere on it.

angus1x

Thanks AC,My Max is in a storage building I built just to house it in until I get time to get it back in to shop that seems always seems crowded with farm projects.
I sure appreciate everyone on the forum staying with me on this project.Trying to get compressor fixed on big cat engine on my Peterbelt so I can haul some gravel before it gets to muddy to get them in.
THX Again,Steve

angus1x

Wishing everyone happy new year,still haven't got my max back into shop but not forgotten.

maximagician

Have you tried the knock sensor bypass? all that info should be easy to find here on the .org
some say its fine to run,most all say its fine to try,a few were too scurred
I had it bypassed on a 92 se long ago ,my current 92 se doesnt need it for now

maximagician

If you do try the knock sensor bypass resistor dont mistake common VTC(variable) cam noise/Tick Tick for engine knock,
And dont let VTC cam noise be misdiagnosed as valves these cars use hydraulic valve lash self adjusters
there is also a bypass for VTC so it wont tick

anyone interested in trying these should do an advanced search on this site for all the specifics-that is my disclaimer

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep you can ground the VTC to remove the clack, should be a writeup floating around from 8-10 years back on what to do