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Changing oil for the first time

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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
drewstair's Avatar
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Changing oil for the first time

Hey all I am getting ready to change the oil for the first time (for me) in my 91 se. Are there any parts I should stick with? It's an auto tranny. I got a FRAM Double gaurd oil filter and a purolater air filter. Are those ok? Any particular oil I should stick with? What about transmission fluid? Is there a specfic brand I should use? Any things I should check when I do the oil? I have never had an auto car before so not sure what else I should be looking out for. Thanks
Old Feb 22, 2002 | 01:37 PM
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ChrisCheezer's Avatar
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ill handle this

ok bro . what are you using SYNTEC? well thats what i use. 5w 30 is good to. ok so drain al the oil. (change the filter after all the oil is out) most filters work fine, dont worry about the name. remember to oil that rubber ring around the new filter befor you put it back on .. thats it .. i use 4 quarts then some time down the road a thow in a engine treatment thing... keep the oil nice and high

good luck lol
Old Feb 22, 2002 | 03:43 PM
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You won't be able to completely drain the tranny it'll only drain less than 4 quarts. Make sure that you fill it to the proper level it might take a few checks to get it perfect, but if it is overfilled it can be harmful to the tranny and if it's low it might slip. If it's a newer tranny, I'd go with a syntehtic, but if it's old stay with normal fluid, the same goes for the engine. People say you shouldn't switch the synthetic oil after 60,000 miles or so because the engine gets used to the normal oil. Take your time, and good luck! Oh, and next time get a Nissan filter, the Fram will work but not as well.
Old Feb 22, 2002 | 06:01 PM
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regular Fram filters kinda suck, you should use a filter with an anti-drain back valve. To tell whether it has one is very simple. Open the package and look at the filter with the holes facing you. If the outer ring of holes has black rubber behind them, then it has an anti-drain back valve. If you can see into the filter through the outter rings then it does not.



When replacing the oil filter be sure not to over tighten. When tightening you should do so by hand (not with the wrench). But get it as snug as you can get it by hand. This prevents over tightening and also potentially denting the filter while installing.

Good luck!
Old Feb 23, 2002 | 02:42 PM
  #5  
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i started usin castrol syntec 10w30 @111k,engine seems to rev smoother and ive heard that syntec burns cleaner anyway
Old Feb 24, 2002 | 04:05 AM
  #6  
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Oil brand isn't that important if you change it regularly. Most major brands of "regular" oil are broadly similar. If you go synthetic it's anyone's guess, but Mobil 1, and Amsoil have the largest camps of supporters.

Not using synthetic on an old engine because it "gets used to normal oil" is pure MYTH. Some people say this because they find their engine mysteriously developing minor oil leaks once they switch. They blame the synthetic for this saying it hurt the engine and wrecked the seals, when in reality it's the better flowing capability of synthetic oil that lets it seep through already worn seals that regular oil won't get through. Either switch back to stop the leaks or just live with it. Many people with high milage engines have switched with no ill effects.

All filters have an anti-drainback valve in them. Some can't be seen easily because of design, and some (like most Frams) suck. I think the model of Fram filter you have may have a decent valve on it, but there are better filters. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ for alternatives that are a lot cheaper or better, or both. I personally wouldn't bother with an OEM filter since it's probably expensive and just a repackaged filter made by someone else anyway (like the Mopar filters in the filter study), but if you like them many people use them too.
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