Should I bother cleaning the bottom of the oil pan?
#1
Should I bother cleaning the bottom of the oil pan?
I change my oil within every 5K and wonder if it would help to take the oil pan off and clean it. If I take it off will I need to get a new seal for it?
#2
Yes, if you remove it you will have to replace the seal.
It is a good idea to remove it and clean the out real good. b/c it will allow better heat transfer from the oil to the pan to the surrounding air when you drive, thereby cooling the oil. I was considering attaching a large heat sink to the bottom of the oil pan (a low profile aluminum fin heat sink) this would be like a custom oil-cooler, without the need to add an external one and route all the oil lines. I scrapped the idea when I took a good look at how low the car already rides and that I have already bottomed out on the center support beam (in my case skid plate).
I've got lots to do on my car and I was considering removing the pan and cleaning it out, but its definitley not high priority. When your cleaning it you might have to use a wire brush to get the baked on crub off (I did it on my last car).
It is a good idea to remove it and clean the out real good. b/c it will allow better heat transfer from the oil to the pan to the surrounding air when you drive, thereby cooling the oil. I was considering attaching a large heat sink to the bottom of the oil pan (a low profile aluminum fin heat sink) this would be like a custom oil-cooler, without the need to add an external one and route all the oil lines. I scrapped the idea when I took a good look at how low the car already rides and that I have already bottomed out on the center support beam (in my case skid plate).
I've got lots to do on my car and I was considering removing the pan and cleaning it out, but its definitley not high priority. When your cleaning it you might have to use a wire brush to get the baked on crub off (I did it on my last car).
#3
Originally posted by eric93SE
Yes, if you remove it you will have to replace the seal.
It is a good idea to remove it and clean the out real good. b/c it will allow better heat transfer from the oil to the pan to the surrounding air when you drive, thereby cooling the oil. I was considering attaching a large heat sink to the bottom of the oil pan (a low profile aluminum fin heat sink) this would be like a custom oil-cooler, without the need to add an external one and route all the oil lines. I scrapped the idea when I took a good look at how low the car already rides and that I have already bottomed out on the center support beam (in my case skid plate).
I've got lots to do on my car and I was considering removing the pan and cleaning it out, but its definitley not high priority. When your cleaning it you might have to use a wire brush to get the baked on crub off (I did it on my last car).
Yes, if you remove it you will have to replace the seal.
It is a good idea to remove it and clean the out real good. b/c it will allow better heat transfer from the oil to the pan to the surrounding air when you drive, thereby cooling the oil. I was considering attaching a large heat sink to the bottom of the oil pan (a low profile aluminum fin heat sink) this would be like a custom oil-cooler, without the need to add an external one and route all the oil lines. I scrapped the idea when I took a good look at how low the car already rides and that I have already bottomed out on the center support beam (in my case skid plate).
I've got lots to do on my car and I was considering removing the pan and cleaning it out, but its definitley not high priority. When your cleaning it you might have to use a wire brush to get the baked on crub off (I did it on my last car).
#4
WTF?!
dude, if you change your oil on any regular basis, there should be nearly nothing in your oil pan except a light coating of varnish. if there's anything more than that, then you need to worry about finding another engine.
Aside from that, the oil pan is a PIA to remove, clean the old rubber gasket off, and replace. it's just not worth the hassle unless you're rebuilding the engine. for one, you'll probably have to drop the crossmember in order just to get the thing off. again, no easy feat considering the main means of supporting the engine without the crossmember is to brace the oil pan.
dude, if you change your oil on any regular basis, there should be nearly nothing in your oil pan except a light coating of varnish. if there's anything more than that, then you need to worry about finding another engine.
Aside from that, the oil pan is a PIA to remove, clean the old rubber gasket off, and replace. it's just not worth the hassle unless you're rebuilding the engine. for one, you'll probably have to drop the crossmember in order just to get the thing off. again, no easy feat considering the main means of supporting the engine without the crossmember is to brace the oil pan.
#6
I've rebuilt my share of engines, yes. If you change your oil at proper intervals, there shouldn't be much buildup. yes, there can/will be some, but if there's enough to see benefit from a removal and cleaning, then you've got a problem.
#8
I removed my oil pan when I had the engine out becasue both of the seals were leaking. On the VG there are two half circle seals on both sides and the rest is silicon gasket. My oil pan had no buildup after 143,000 miles so I wouldn't worry about it. Pulling the pan off with the engine in the car would be a PITA.
#9
I have this borescope which I have used to put down the spark plug hole just to see if there was any sort of unusual carbon buildup on the piston.
It has a high intensity light right on the tip.....which allowed me to clearly see the area....in a way that would be impossible without removal of the major parts involved.
I will use this to look up the oil drain hole and see what i find.
However, I will have to side with Matt because removal the pan is not like giving the throttle body a cleaning. There is a tremendous amount of effort involved.......all for no major noticeable improvement. Think of that when you decide to remove it for a cleaning.
It has a high intensity light right on the tip.....which allowed me to clearly see the area....in a way that would be impossible without removal of the major parts involved.
I will use this to look up the oil drain hole and see what i find.
However, I will have to side with Matt because removal the pan is not like giving the throttle body a cleaning. There is a tremendous amount of effort involved.......all for no major noticeable improvement. Think of that when you decide to remove it for a cleaning.
#10
if you're really worried about it, you can get a kerosene based flush that you put in like a normal quart of oil. run your car for 10 minutes, then change it. they do it at jiffy lube and valvoline for like 15 bucks, but you can buy the stuff at autozone.
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