Czar

Wow... what a day. I went skiing today and on the way home I noticed a snotty 93 ford probe gt. Freeway is wide open so I decide to let him know a thing or two... well anyways we are flying somewhat downhill. I look down and my speedo is pegged (BTW 92 SE speedo goes to 145). Revs are about 6100 when I start to slow for a curve. I hear a faint knock and I go oh sh**. maybe oil starvation going through the curves or something, but I am now stuck here... I am gonna drain the oil and pull the pan tomorrow and see whats cooking with my rods. At this point I am either going to rebuild my engine or throw some new bearings in it and trade it in real fast. Anybody know a good engine builder or got a spare VE30DE laying around? Since I am going to work on this car anyways I want the best engine I can put in for the money if I rebuild. Maybe its time to experiment with a turbo VE cuz I really like my car. My engine probably blew also because I was asking it to do insane things with 150,000 on the odometer. I am not sure... Maybe if I just trade it in and get like a 98 SE I'll be happy.
Lesson learned? I dunno... don't race something that you don't know you can blow away quickly with 150,000 on your engine. My dad says I deserved to have my engine go for going that fast. Oh well I don't feel too bad about it, just inconveinient on me and my wallet. I know why it happened and that it wouldn't have happened if I hadn't been driving like a nut.
Other lesson learned? Don't try going around a curve at 150 on a stock suspension. I hit a bump and for a second I thought I would be MaximaMike (RIP) before my tires decided to grab again. If I keep this car I gotta get some suspension mods. I thought I would lean my way right off the road and into a big nasty tree... I guess better my engine than me. I just wish I had gotten stopped for speeding rather than blow my engine. But then again, the way I drive I would have blown it sooner or later.
So if any of you have any advice you would like to share about getting my car rolling again it would be appreciated. I am thinking either used engine, or quicky rebuild and trade it in, or having my engine done right so it will last me another 150,000 miles of aggressive driving and racing.

Nismo87SE

Damn sorry to hear that. If you believe you have a bent rod try turning the crank via the pulley bolt. If you can turn it without much restriction then your rods should be safe. Check your compression and teh condition of your oil too. The reason I say this is because the VE30DE has the same internals as the VG30DE.

Czar

Nismo87 you are the man... I don't think I have a bent rod (of course i won't know until I pull the oil pan). it sounds like I have a rod knock(prob. rod bearings) After I noticed the tick I drove slowly about 50 miles to home. I won't rev it over 2 G right now because of the noise. For that matter my car will not be driven until it is fixed. It starts fine, and runs fine, but it sometimes dies and the oil light flickers on when it is idling really low like 500 rpm. Basically I have a sick engine that needs work. If I go the rebuild route I want to have everything done heavy duty on the bottom end with forged pistons, total seal rings, balanced, crank magnafluxed, cryogenically treated, maybe stronger lighter rods; and then for the upper end I want ported and polished intake and heads lighter titanium valves, hardware, and stiffer springs. I also plan to design and fabricate an adjustable intake cam sprocket to replace the VTC's. Basically I want a monster engine with 250 FWHP NA; with enough engine strength to either handle a 65 shot of NOS or have a custom turbo setup with 300 hp. I can do the engine assembly myself and I am willing to spend 3k on the heavy duty parts for the engine. If anybody has done a complete HD rebuild for the VE, I want to hear from him for some tips.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

By the way..it's not maximamike that got into the accident.
i think it was something like maximadude or something.
Dan

Czar

sorry maximamike.... I meant maximadude... I hope you are still kickin'

Nismo87SE

Actually the rods might already be forged since they have the same tensile strength as the VG30DE. If anything cryo treat and/or get swain tech to coat your pistons. Also if your going for NA power some forged 11.1CR pistons are needed, some oil squirters from the VG30DETT would be nice. Maybe work with JWT or ISKY to get some custom cams ground. But I can tell ya now expecting more than 205fwhp NA is unrealstic. Because the VG30DE with that much money invested barely get more than 205-210rwhp. Basically after they do stage III (intake, exhaust, ecu, pulley) things like ported TB's/intake manifold/heads have minimal gains. Your best bet is to do high compression (if your going NA) and NOS. If you go NOS I suggest using a JWT N20 system, its the safest way to run NOS with best perfromance. Your also going to need a custom ECU once you have all your upgrades done. BTW you should upgrade to 300zxTT injectors and fuel pump for the nos. After all that your car should be capable of mid-low 14's NA, mid-low 13's on the bottle with slicks. Your stock clutch won't hold either but you can get an ACT that would fix that. Then put in some gauges like oil psi/temp, water temp, NOS psi and a shift lite .

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

to be honest, I think you may have just killed the VTC assemblies.. sure you coulda bent a rod, but I think you'd notice more than just a ticking sound if you did that..
either one is not cheap (or easy) to fix.

I'm glad you actually realize that driving your car that fast DOES cause problems and you're not griping at nissan for not making a bulletproof engine! (and also adressed the fact you nearly killed yourself in the process).. Kudos to admitting we're human and not perfect cars or drivers.
hope the car survives!

speednsound007

wats the redline in a VE?

PJ

Maximamike

LOL. Go with the spray. The trouble of building a turbo motor(mainly routing exhaust/intake pipes) will be a pain in the azz..

Czar

VE redlines at 6700, but don't try to do that if your moter has 150,000 miles like mine does.

I am sure that most would say it is foolish to go as fast as I did; and you're absolutely right. After doing that, there is no way in hell I'd ever go that fast again in my car w/o significant susp., brake, wheel and tire changes. That car is scary to drive that fast with the caddy suspension. I love speed and there is no track around here besides public freeways where you can drive at extreme speeds. The road I was on was deserted; it was only me and the guy I was racing, and I love the rush. Yes, it is a risk to take, and I know that a blown tire would have killed me, but it could happen at 70 too. Everybody says that it serves me right that I blew my engine speeding on a freeway, but I understand that it does put significant stress on engines and ANY type of racing, whether sanctioned or not, will do that. It is the chance you take. I recognize that people will talk bad about me for that, but I would wish they would respect that it was my decision to make and my own life I risked. The risk/reward ratio I decided was worth taking the chance to experience the adrenoline. Sensible people will not jump out of an airplane with a parachute either, but some do. As far as speeding goes, that is my thrill. I never wish to impose my decisions on others by putting them at risk from my behavior, and so I don't do that around other innocents. I still take the chance of getting caught by the police and going to jail, but if there were to be sanctioned road racing in my state, I would support that and that would be my outlet rather than non-sanctioned road racing.

You guys seem to think it isn't poss. to get 250 N/A HP. I wonder why not though... Acura makes a 3.2 SOHC that gets 260, VQ30DE-K gets 222, VQ35DE gets 240?!?... If I start out at 190 hp stock, why would it be so hard to get 60 hp out of building engine and bolt-ons? Nismo87 you say that more than 205 fwhp is out of reach?!? I think with just a CAI, y-pipe, cat and exhaust should do that... Why is there such a market for those parts if it didn't give you 15 HP or so? If I got the upgraded fuel delivery, better breathing and more compression with a ECU that can handle it why not? I do not understand that there would not be power to be made on that engine... I used to do mustangs(I will admit that there is heavy gains to be made on mustangs because of the ancient V8 design limiting breathing) and it seemed that the more air you get through the engine with fuel, you will gain power. I value your knowledge and experience with maximas, but are you guys limiting your views to the capabilities of the 160 hp VG? Has the VE eaked out all the gains that could be made on a great 3 liter engine design by adding 12 more valves? I do not understand that there is not good N/A power to be made on my VE. Please educate me!!!

Nismo87SE

I believe your refering to 250hp at the flywheel. We tend not to use flywheel numbers because they don't mean squat. What counts is what the car puts to the ground, that determines how fast one can go. But assuming a stock VE 5spd puts down 155-160fwhp stock then you would need around 210fwhp to equal "250hp at the flywheel". Like I said before getting more than 200-210fwhp is unrealistic without a serious disregard for driveablitily. Most manual trans cars lose around 14-17% of their flywheel power to the wheels, while auto's lose around 18-24%. Case in point GM rated the LS1 F-bodies at 305hp but these cars have proven to dyno around 290-305fwhp. This clearly means that GM is under rating the engine, in actuallity it probably makes around 330hp at the flywheel. However in our case our dyno numbers correlate with what our engines flywheel power. If your car proves not to be broken you should strap it on a dynojet to get a good baseline. That way once you mod your car you will know how much you gained vs guessing or speculating. Basically Flywheel hp is like Gross pay and wheel hp is like net pay. Sure it makes for bragging rights, but we all know who ever has the higher net pay brings the bacon .

Czar

As far as I know, FWHP is flywheel horsepower. It appears that we have a slight miscommunication; I don't expect or hope for 250 wheel HP, I just want to add 60 HP to my current (rated)190 FWHP. Nismo do you think that it feasible to expect 250 FWHP with boltons and internal mods such as upped compression ratio, P&P, etc. It seems that a stock 3g VE max 5sp well driven can get mid 15's. I would like to get a 13 with my max someday. I think that I need about 250-260 hp to do that. Lots of people have gotten their 13's with NOS, but I would like to do all motor......

Maximamike

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Nismo87SE
[I]Or the one with some boost..

Nismo87SE

FWHP = Front Wheel horsepower, just like RWHP = Rear wheel horsepower. Of course I could just use 155-160DWHP (Drive wheel hp) but its more confusing. To hit 13's all you need is bolt ons and a 50-60shot NOS setup. For newbie's or those that don't have alot/any experience with N20 its best to just get the JWT n20 setup. Its the easiest and safest way to use N20. The complete system is like $1400 though. If you upgraded your injectors and fuel pump I'm sure JWT can reprogram it for the 100shot like they offer for the se-r/sentras. I'm sure you can get 250 flywheel hp NA, but why spend so much money for very little results? If you planned on building an engine might as well put in a 100 shot NOS with 100 octane race gas and see what the car runs. Also if you want to run more than a 65 shot you will need bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade.