Too much draw on alternator?
#1
Too much draw on alternator?
I've got a 91 GXE and about a year ago today I noticed that my battery was starting to build up acid around the connectors. At the time I didn't think much of it, just cleaned off the connectors and on I went. About 2 weeks later, BAM! alternator died on me. I replaced it and haven't had any problems with it since, until today when I popped the hood and noticed the same cooked battery acid was building up on my battery again. I'm really not in the mood, or in the cash flow to have to replace my alternator again here in about 2 weeks if history repeats itself. I've checked the charge on the battery and its fine. I'm wondering if this is a sign of a bad battery or me just putting too much stress on my alternator and my system constantly having to go to my battery for the extra juice. I'm not running anything too extravagant(College is a big drain on the wallet). I've got a 400x1 Max Kenwood mono amp running 2 Kenwood 12's, and a 75x4 Max Alpine amp running my mids and highs. Both amps have their own 8-gwa power lead. If anyone can give me any input on what might be causing my problem, it would be greatly apprecated. Even if it is tough news...Like getting a beefer alternator.
#2
the problem isn't the loads you're putting on the alternator. the problem is that you broke the seal around the battery posts from tightening the terminals down too much.
what you need to do to fix it (it at least worked for mine) is pull the battery out and clean around the terminals extremely well.
first use baking soda and water and a stiff plastic brush. that'll neutralize all the acid.
then go over it with clean water and wipe dry.
let it sit for a while, and blow off around the posts if you have an air compressor (be careful, there still may be some acid in the crevices. not a good idea to do this without face/eye protection.)
once it's dry, put a thin layer of RTV silicone around the seam between the plastic top of the battery and the terminals. let it cure for an hour or so, then carefully put the battery back in the car.
(clean the battery connectors and anything with acid on it with the baking soda and water solution also. rinse well and let dry).
when you're tighening the terminals back down, all you have to do is get them snug. if you see the battery posts moving, then they're too tight. try to twist the connectors after barely snugging them up.. if you can twist them, then give it another 1/4 turn.. keep doing this until you can't move the connectors. this will not be extremely tight compared to a lugnut, but it's a piece of lead, so it won't take much to torque it down.
what you need to do to fix it (it at least worked for mine) is pull the battery out and clean around the terminals extremely well.
first use baking soda and water and a stiff plastic brush. that'll neutralize all the acid.
then go over it with clean water and wipe dry.
let it sit for a while, and blow off around the posts if you have an air compressor (be careful, there still may be some acid in the crevices. not a good idea to do this without face/eye protection.)
once it's dry, put a thin layer of RTV silicone around the seam between the plastic top of the battery and the terminals. let it cure for an hour or so, then carefully put the battery back in the car.
(clean the battery connectors and anything with acid on it with the baking soda and water solution also. rinse well and let dry).
when you're tighening the terminals back down, all you have to do is get them snug. if you see the battery posts moving, then they're too tight. try to twist the connectors after barely snugging them up.. if you can twist them, then give it another 1/4 turn.. keep doing this until you can't move the connectors. this will not be extremely tight compared to a lugnut, but it's a piece of lead, so it won't take much to torque it down.
#6
Just be carful not to get the silicon on the post itself, other wise it wont make good electrical contact.
I would reccomend that if the battery is old, or near the end, to go ahead and replace it. An easy way to check if the battery isnt holding a full charge is to check the voltage while cranking over the engine. If the voltage drops well below 11volts (while cranking) then it should be replaced.
I would reccomend that if the battery is old, or near the end, to go ahead and replace it. An easy way to check if the battery isnt holding a full charge is to check the voltage while cranking over the engine. If the voltage drops well below 11volts (while cranking) then it should be replaced.
#7
Originally posted by eric93SE
Just be carful not to get the silicon on the post itself, other wise it wont make good electrical contact.
I would reccomend that if the battery is old, or near the end, to go ahead and replace it. An easy way to check if the battery isnt holding a full charge is to check the voltage while cranking over the engine. If the voltage drops well below 11volts (while cranking) then it should be replaced.
Just be carful not to get the silicon on the post itself, other wise it wont make good electrical contact.
I would reccomend that if the battery is old, or near the end, to go ahead and replace it. An easy way to check if the battery isnt holding a full charge is to check the voltage while cranking over the engine. If the voltage drops well below 11volts (while cranking) then it should be replaced.
#9
Well I went to AutoZone to get my alternator and battery checked out for free. Dude tells me my battery is bad. And that the alternator is running a little low, but that is probably because of the battery. Then he says that I'm probably going to need an Optima battery. I don't have a problem dropping the money on one...I just don't want to do it if it's not going to fix my problem. I did one of those: Estimate your electrical current demands, and Estimate your reserve current capacity and if your capacity if more than your demand then your in good shape. Well it doesn't look like I'm in good shape(If I did the math right). Current draw of amps: 40x4RMS + 200x1RMS = 360. Double that: 720. Divided by average volts alternator produces 13.8 = 52.2 amperes of draw. Now if I'm not mistaken my VG alternator is rated at 95A. Multiplay that by 40% = 38 amps of reserve capacity. I don't know if that little DIY formula is right or not. But if it is, a new battery is not going to solve my problem. I guess what I'm asking is if this formula is full of **** or not, and if it is...Is getting a Optima battery is a good idea or not, and I should probably be looking to get a Yellow Top, am I correct in this assumption?
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