loose strut tower bolt
07-17-2002, 09:04 PM
#1
loose strut tower bolt
I just lowered my car, new springs and struts... my problem is i cant tigheten down the bolt on the strut that holds the spring in place on my driver's side, the strut shaft spins with the bolt. i need a few more revolutions to snug it up... any suggestions?? what did the rest of you do??
07-18-2002, 05:49 AM
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Posts: 16,033
The hole in the strut mount isn't round. Take a look at the threads on the strut. There's a grove down the side. That grove holds the piston shaft from turning while your tightening things up. It sounds like your strut mount is worn out and the oval shaped hole is now round allowing the strut shaft to spin.
You have 2 options:
1) Use an air gun and carefully give a few pulses. That will definately spin the nut fast enough to snug it down a bit. Stop by your local gas station and let the mechanic do it for ya. Tip him a 20.
2) Replace the upper strut mount. This is the correct way to fix your problem.
You have 2 options:
1) Use an air gun and carefully give a few pulses. That will definately spin the nut fast enough to snug it down a bit. Stop by your local gas station and let the mechanic do it for ya. Tip him a 20.
2) Replace the upper strut mount. This is the correct way to fix your problem.
07-18-2002, 06:21 AM
#3
I have the Stillen camber plates and they don't have the mentioned groove like stock, so I ran into the same problem. I took a pair of vice grip plyers and a leather shami and had to grab the strut shaft the best I could, then crank on the top. It's a hell of a lot easier if you have someone to help...
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
07-18-2002, 06:27 AM
#4
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
The hole in the strut mount isn't round. Take a look at the threads on the strut. There's a grove down the side. That grove holds the piston shaft from turning while your tightening things up. It sounds like your strut mount is worn out and the oval shaped hole is now round allowing the strut shaft to spin.
You have 2 options:
1) Use an air gun and carefully give a few pulses. That will definately spin the nut fast enough to snug it down a bit. Stop by your local gas station and let the mechanic do it for ya. Tip him a 20.
2) Replace the upper strut mount. This is the correct way to fix your problem.
The hole in the strut mount isn't round. Take a look at the threads on the strut. There's a grove down the side. That grove holds the piston shaft from turning while your tightening things up. It sounds like your strut mount is worn out and the oval shaped hole is now round allowing the strut shaft to spin.
You have 2 options:
1) Use an air gun and carefully give a few pulses. That will definately spin the nut fast enough to snug it down a bit. Stop by your local gas station and let the mechanic do it for ya. Tip him a 20.
2) Replace the upper strut mount. This is the correct way to fix your problem.
07-18-2002, 06:29 AM
#5
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by MadMax95
I have the Stillen camber plates and they don't have the mentioned groove like stock, so I ran into the same problem. I took a pair of vice grip plyers and a leather shami and had to grab the strut shaft the best I could, then crank on the top. It's a hell of a lot easier if you have someone to help...
Hope this helps...
I have the Stillen camber plates and they don't have the mentioned groove like stock, so I ran into the same problem. I took a pair of vice grip plyers and a leather shami and had to grab the strut shaft the best I could, then crank on the top. It's a hell of a lot easier if you have someone to help...
Hope this helps...
07-18-2002, 06:30 AM
#6
Originally posted by MadMax95
I have the Stillen camber plates and they don't have the mentioned groove like stock, so I ran into the same problem. I took a pair of vice grip plyers and a leather shami and had to grab the strut shaft the best I could, then crank on the top. It's a hell of a lot easier if you have someone to help...
Hope this helps...
I have the Stillen camber plates and they don't have the mentioned groove like stock, so I ran into the same problem. I took a pair of vice grip plyers and a leather shami and had to grab the strut shaft the best I could, then crank on the top. It's a hell of a lot easier if you have someone to help...
Hope this helps...
that was my other choice... i picked up the craftsman strap wrench last night, thinking i might use it. not sure if i should, or just get the right part... thanks for the advice guys. i'll let you know what i do/if it works
07-18-2002, 07:10 AM
#7
Originally posted by JeepRage
that was my other choice... i picked up the craftsman strap wrench last night, thinking i might use it. not sure if i should, or just get the right part... thanks for the advice guys. i'll let you know what i do/if it works
that was my other choice... i picked up the craftsman strap wrench last night, thinking i might use it. not sure if i should, or just get the right part... thanks for the advice guys. i'll let you know what i do/if it works
BTW, you made me look it up
The thing that says Boost sensor is the absolute pressure sensor. According to the book, it is connected to the MAP/Baro switch solenoid valve by a hose. The sensor detects ambient barometric pressure and intake manifold pressure, and sends a voltage signal to the ECM. As pressure increases, voltage rises. The absolute pressure sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is only used for on-board diagnosis.
Now we know
07-18-2002, 07:59 AM
#8
Originally posted by iwannabmw
I used the vice grip trick as well. Try to grab the tip of the shaft above the bolt, it might barely fit, but that way you won't damage the part of the shaft that slide up and down.
BTW, you made me look it up
The thing that says Boost sensor is the absolute pressure sensor. According to the book, it is connected to the MAP/Baro switch solenoid valve by a hose. The sensor detects ambient barometric pressure and intake manifold pressure, and sends a voltage signal to the ECM. As pressure increases, voltage rises. The absolute pressure sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is only used for on-board diagnosis.
Now we know
I used the vice grip trick as well. Try to grab the tip of the shaft above the bolt, it might barely fit, but that way you won't damage the part of the shaft that slide up and down.
BTW, you made me look it up
The thing that says Boost sensor is the absolute pressure sensor. According to the book, it is connected to the MAP/Baro switch solenoid valve by a hose. The sensor detects ambient barometric pressure and intake manifold pressure, and sends a voltage signal to the ECM. As pressure increases, voltage rises. The absolute pressure sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is only used for on-board diagnosis.
Now we know
HAHA, DAMN... thanks, i knew you were the one to ask
i cant get the vice-grip to grab enough... im heading to the dealer in a few to pick up the new mount
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