Rough Idle and Power Loss
#1
Rough Idle and Power Loss
My 95 GXE, w/AT & 99K miles just started running rough and loss of power when accelerating. From the posts that I have read, think it may be an injector or fuel related. CEL is not on. Need help with diagnosis of this problem. Thanks.
Kevin
Kevin
#3
I think it may be your plugs or other ignition related components. A similar result happened with my 89 Mazda 626. One of the plug wires came off. It felt like I lost 65% of the power and the idle was really rough and loud. If you remove the little plastic panel to the right of you gas pedal, you'll reveal the ECU. Put your key in the ignition and turn the ACC and then turn "ON." You don't have to Start the engine, just get all the red lights on your instrument cluster on. Go to your ECU and read the directions. I think you take a flat head screwdriver; turn clockwise 1/4 rotate, wait 2 seconds, and then turn back 1/4 rotate counter-clockwise. Look up at the instrument cluster and pay attention to the Check Engine light. It will blink a code to you.
follow this:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
there is a decoder link too.
follow this:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
there is a decoder link too.
#5
Originally posted by korupter
a broken knock sensor can cause bad gas mileage and loss of power
a broken knock sensor can cause bad gas mileage and loss of power
#8
Originally posted by Miasma
if it is the mafs, i dont think you can rev to over 2500rpm, it will be difficult to start and idle really rough
if it is the mafs, i dont think you can rev to over 2500rpm, it will be difficult to start and idle really rough
#10
Originally posted by kevink
Checked the ECU, 5/5, No Failure recorded/detected. I put some Techron in the tank. Next step is to have a local trusted repair service try to diagnose. Last resort is the dealer.
Kevin
Checked the ECU, 5/5, No Failure recorded/detected. I put some Techron in the tank. Next step is to have a local trusted repair service try to diagnose. Last resort is the dealer.
Kevin
#11
Problem resolved. Had 1 dead injector and 2 that were dying, per the tech. On the way to the repair place the CEL came on. He said it showed a code of a cylinder misfire. It was definately getting worse as I was driving it to have it fixed. Since the dead one was on the back (under intake) and 2 dying on front, he put 3 new on the back and moved 2 that checked OK to the front. His experience is that the other 3 may fail soon, but will be easier & less expensive to replace on the front. Parts were $345 for 3 injectors and $250 for labor (about 4 hrs, @ $64/hr including diagnostic time). Total around $600. He sees many Nissans with injector failures between 75k - 125k miles. This is the first car I have had with 99K miles...had a starter fail this past spring, which I replaced myself. Looking for a replacement, '01 or '02 Maxima. Guess I have been lucky in the past with previous Maxima's '84 and '87, less maintenance costs.... I usually buy 1 or 2 year old, with warranty remaining.
Kevin
Kevin
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