Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

VI arrived today.

I've got the stock manifold off and VI on. I have a few questions and need some help from experts however.

1) Why the heck is the nipple for the PCV tube (the one right next to the IAC and TB so much smaller on the MEVI than on USA cars. Its so small that the PCV tubing which attached to that point on the US manifold will not work. I've currently ghetto rigged it with some windshield squirter rubber line, and stuffed the end of the hose INSIDE the larger nipple that is on the PCV itself. Any ideas on how to mate the larger PCV nipple with the smaller nipple on the manifold, do they make connectors so you can switch from smaller to larger rubber tubing?

2)My EGR is really crusted. I attempted to clean it out a bit but I was worried about some of the gunk going BACK IN to the metal down tube and clogging it fully. My car's been running fine (ie making good power anyways, not sure on emissions). Should I worry about this enough to pull the entire MEVI back off and clean the EGR?

3) What the HECK is the BOOST SENSOR that is located on the very front (beginning) of the old stock snorkel intake system? My snorkel is just sitting there no, serving no purpose other than as a bracket to mount the BOOST SENSOR on.

The reason I ask is because I noticed that the vacuum line running to the BOOST SENSOR comes off of one of the two MAP/BARO switches that I've located in my engine bay. If this BOOST SENSOR is not doing anything to affect my performance one way or the other, could I cannibalize the already installed MAP/BARO switch to use to activate my VI? Would I need to install a vacuum canister if this idea works? I know I would still have to get my RPM switch inline there somewhere so that it activates at the proper RPM, but what do the experts think of this idea. What does the BOOST SENSOR do?

BTW my car is a 1996 FED SPEC 5spd.

If you have any insight, please advise. Thanks guys.

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Go to Home Depot and get some brass fittings to go from the 3/16" tubing to the larger size (3/8" I believe). If you have a 1999 you don't have to deal with this as our EVAP canister is the correct size

Don't worry about it, but you should have cleaned your EGR, IACV, TB, and lower manifold with Throttle Body cleaner while you had the manifold off.

What "BOOST SENSOR" are you talking about. I've installed VIs on a 96, 97, and 99 fed-spec and never saw this "BOOST SENSOR". If you're referring to the EVAP there are no bolts to secure it to so it just sits on top of the manifold now. The EVAP doesn't get vacuum all the time either (I believe) which may not be a problem, but the FPR is better to hide the tubing anyway. You will still need a vacuum canister because you need to store vacuum to activate the VI unless you find something that pulls quite a bit of vacuum ALL the time.

-hype

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

The "boost sensor" says boost sensor right on it. It is small, about 2 inches by 1 inch by 1 inch. It has a vacuum line coming out of it, going to a MAP/Baro switch, the same type of switch that is used to control the VI. It is at the very front of the car, and is bolted to the stock "intake snorkel." The intake snorkel is the intake air inlet when our cars are stock. It sits right above the radiator, then bends down, then up, then over and connects to the stock airbox, its basically shaped like a snorkel which is why I keep calling it that (its sort of like the fake "ram air" on Pontiac Grand Ams and such. The "boost sensor" is bolted to the very beginning (forward most part) of the stock intake snorkel and has a small wiring harness (2 wires coming out of it) and a vacuum line.

BTW I finished connecting everything, and fired her up. Started up like a charm. I tied the VI open with a broken rubber band and went out to test it but apparently somewhere in my journey the rubber band came off. So I don't have any comments on the gains as of yet. I'll be back.

BTW I thought the part that bolts to the top of the stock manifold and DOES NOT have any place to bolt on the MEVI was called the PCV not the EVAP? Are these one and the same or am I just wrong.

Keven97SE

Regarding your third question, that sensor that's mounted to the top of the intake snorkel is the ambient pressure sensor...you are sort of correct in that it is like a boost sensor. It is used solely for diagnostic purposes...that is, the ECU does not use the feedback to control the engine, just uses the signal for troubleshooting. However, removing it will cause the ECU to throw a code and result in the MIL going off. It's best to keep the sensor. You can find loads of solenoids that fit the bill for this MEVI project in a junkyard. Look for a 3-port solenoid from a 3rd or 4th gen Maxima or other older Nissan cars (Stanza's, etc)...or just order the Dawes Devices unit.

And yes, you still need the vacuum canister to operate the MEVI. Your engine makes no vacuum at high rpms under heavy throttle. The canister retains vacuum generated at idle and low throttle/rpm conditions for use at the high rpm switchover point for the MEVI. The system will not work without that canister (and check valve also).

Dave B

Damn Son, you waste no time

Keep me posted about the whole process. I've got a 96 Fed-spec so my install will go the same way. I guess I'll need to get some brass fitting to make the PCV tube work. I also know about that "Boost Sensor". Mine's mounted in the same place. What vacumm canister did you get? I'm getting the black "softball" canister from NAPA. I'm running the Lexus MAP/Baro switch. It turns out I've got three 30 AMP relays from various driving light installs on prior cars I can't wait. My install is going to look completely stock to the untrained eye.


Dave

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Ok now at least I know what our "boost sensor" is. I removed my intake piping a while back so that sensor is just zip tied down by the engine. The PCV valve is located in the block attached to a short (2" or so) hose that attaches to the intake manifold. The EVAP sits on top of the manifold, the IACV on the side, and the EGR in the rear. I just finished painting my vacuum canister bracket so I'm totally done with my install
-hype

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Keven... ambient pressure sensor... thanks. I just called it the boost sensor because it says exactly that right on it. Anywho, I do already have a MAP/BARO switch (came off of a Mazda MX3 V6, they have variable intakes too) , but my thinking was that if this boost sensor was not needed, I would cannibalize the MAP/BARO switch that is connected to it, and use that rather than ghetto rig my Mazda MAP/baro that I got from the junk yard. Since you say the ECU gets NO input from the boost sensor, what I am going to do is disconnect the vacuum line going into the boost sensor, and then use my vacuum canister, RPM switch, etc. I'll still leave the wiring harness that is connected to the boost sensor intact and connected. I'll let you all know if this works or not.

Dave- I haven't picked up my vacuum cansiter yet. I'm heading to the parts store tomorrow morning to get the fittings, vacuum line, vac canister, and 30amp relay that I will need to complete my install.

I just did a few WOT runs with the VI tied open. Wow. It brought a big grin to my face. It's not quite the pull of a honda which keeps increasing all the way to the rev limiter, but there is DEFINATELY more power above 5000rpms than there was before. From 3000-4500 with the VI tied open, there is a noticeable loss in power. I don't feel that little kick in the pants that I normally feel when going WOT in 2nd gear at 3000rpm. There is a definate power loss there.

Hopefully I'll have the thing fully operational by tomorrow afternoon so I can do a full review of it.

BTW Dave have fun with those rear manifold bolts, EGR bolts, and coolant lines. They are loads of fun!!!!! My hands are so torn up and raw. Be sure to pick up a pair of those needle nose pliers that are bent at the tip. I couldn't find my pair and suffered for it. I found them immediately AFTER I was done taking the stock manifold off

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

If you like the VI now wait till you get it working correctly. I rode in Murphy_TX_Mike's car with the VI tied open and you could feel it somewhat, but a working VI is 3x as strong. Resetting the ECU and letting the car learn the VI helps a lot too. I drove the car after the install and barely felt the VI, but after my 220 mile trip back from Austin to Dallas it pulled really hard. The ECU takes time to learn, and after it's acclimiated you can distinctly hear the resonance of the intake sound change. The stock tach is also 300rpms too fast, so you won't feel the VI exactly at 5k per se.
-hype

Dave B

Definately keep me posted about the install. After all is said and done, how long did swapping out the intake manifold take. What was the condition of your throttle body gasket (did you feel safe reusing it).

As for tools, I've got PLENTY of those at my disposal. I have numerous sizes of needle nose pliers and a ton of other do-dads.


Dave

theblue

nice going... can't wait to see how well you do at the track with the VI.... maybe you'll beat my 14.2 and inspire me to start going back to the track.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I tore chunks off of 2 corners of the TB gasket, around the area where the bolts go, so instead of there being holes for the bolts, its kindof just a half circle indentation that the bolt fits into. But the gasket seals 360 degrees around so I reused it. I probably should have replaced it but at 11pm I was getting very very impatient and very sore.

Working straight thru, and never having taken anything but the EVAP Purge Control Valve off my IM before(read: no clue as to what parts I was unbolting), it took me about 2.5 hours to pull the stock manifold off. This was with some standing around and head scratching as I don't have any sort of manual so I was basically like "hmmm well it looks like this needs to come off too, and then this, and then this thing." If I did it again today I could probably do it in 1.5 hours. Not that I really want to hehe.

BTW I searched high and low today, no one in my town has a Vacuum canister in stock, so I had to order one from NAPA. It will be here tomorrow morning. I plan on wiring up my RPM switch and doing what vacuum line work I can tonight.

Dave B

Hmmm..I'll probably go get a TB gasket. NAPA had to order my vacumm canister too. I picked mine up over my lunch break today. I used the part number posted on MishMoshs site. The canister was $10 and already has an interal check valve. It's about 2.5" wide, 2" deep, and 6" long. 2 pieces of vacumm line (can't remember the exact sizes) to fit the nipples on the vacumm canister. I've got all the other parts ready to go. I'll probably wait until Friday night to do the install.

How does the car drive with the butterflys closed? Is it pretty much like stock?


Dave

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I picked up a bunch of different size hose and T fittings today. I already have a 30amp relay. I'll be wiring my RPM switch up here in a little bit. Anyone know what wire I'm supposed to tap into to run my RPM switch off the coil pack? Should I tap in right there at the coil pack harness, or somewhere else?