phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I do not have a Haynes or chiltons and the car place near me is out of them. I also DID read the owners manual, 60K service info website (had manual tranny info) and the FAQs...

Where is the drain for the transmission in autos? Also, do I NEED to flush it, or just drain and refill? If I DO need to flush it, what do I use to do so?

keener

You need a full flush which will remove the old ATF from the converter and radiator. Just remove the tranny return line from the radiator, at the radiator side, connect a clear poly line and start the car. The tranny pump will reomve the old ATF while you add new fluid at the dip stick. Typically need about 9 quarts of ATF. THe clear poly line will allow you to see the color change from old to new ATF. At this point turn off the car and top of the fluid once you restart the car with the return line reconnected. I recommend a second person to turn off the car in case of an unforseen problem (i.e. line blows off radiator and fluid is spraying all over the concrete).

nfafan

Would you not require a means of blocking off the other tranny cooler line? One would be squirting old tranny fluid into whatever, the other would eventually be sucking air after it pulled all the tranny fluid out of the radiator tranny cooler..
I would think that the dealer's "A/T dialysis machine" has T's into these lines, or some other means to power-flush. IMHO, given the cost of A/T repairs, the $70.00 to the dealer once every 5 years is cheap.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Hmmm..good point. What type of transmission fluid do we use? THey told me Dexcron III at the parts store. I looked in the manual, all it says is to use nissan fluid from the dealer. Can anyone help me here? If i got the wrong stuff, I am screwed...no returns b/c the place is closing. I have 8 Quarts of dexcron III...

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Dexron III is what Nissan's fluid is. You're fine, you just need more of it.

keener

Actually, the dealer power flushes the tranny by starting the car and letting the pump push the fluid into the radiator and then into a drain pan. Besides, how the hell is the pump going to suck air if you are adding fluid to the dip stick port while the pump is pushing fluid out. If you hear a belching noise coming from the pump you should shut the car off and fill with fluid before proceeding with the rest of the flush. Also, only one connector is removed and it is the hose that leaves the radiator.

karguy

When I flushed my auto tranny (actually 2 of them) I disconnected the return line. I put a piece of plastic hose on the output of the tranny cooler and pumped ATF fluid into a gallon jug. Once the jug was full I had my helper turn the engine off. I then measured the volume in the jug and added the same volume of new tranny fluid. I then repeated this process until I saw nice red (new) fluid coming out. I just left the tranny return line unplugged. It just feeds into the pan where the pump actually picks up the oil. Nothing will be damaged. I switched both Maxima's to AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid with marvelous results (1 had 130k and i had 51k miles). The before and after was really dramatic, I am quite pragmatic and am not easily impressed but the Synthetic Tranny Fluid is awesome!

magic_max

karguy,

Just to verify...you had 130k and 51k miles on those 2 cars, and switched from regular to Synthetic tranny fluid?? I heard it wasn't recommended to use switch from regular to synthetic tranny fluid on cars w/quite a few miles on them. I heard the tranny would leak, as one of the side affects. Any comments on this would be appreciated.

I have a '96 Max Se w/67K miles and wanted to switch but didn't after hearing not to do it.

Thanks,
magic_max

karguy

Yes I had 51k on one and 130k on the other (currently has 141K). No leaks on either one. It really quieted the transmissions down (what I would call normal tranny noise, especially at idle) and the shifting is quick yet very smooth. By the way I used AMSOIL ATF.

nfafan

True, you are adding ATF via the tranny dipstick - but meanwhile the "tranny vacuum machine" will eventually suck all the remaining oil out of the **tranny cooler in the rad**... then with the line disconnected and on the "vacuum machine", the now-open port on the rad is exposed; "Also, only one connector is removed and it is the hose that leaves the radiator." so.... you must cap that now-open port on the rad with something, to prevent an open in the ordinarily sealed, closed-loop circulation system. That's what I meant.

keener

There is no way to suck air when the pump is submerged. In addition, the line that is removed at the radiator is the discharge line (i.e. line that comes out of the radiator). The tranny pump pushes the fluid thru the convertor and radiator. When the radiator discharge line is removed, the fluid fills the catch pan rather than returning to the tranny. As a result of the loss of fluid from the tranny you add more fluid at the dip stick to prevent the fluid level from becoming so low that it sucks air. After removing 8 to 9 quarts the tranny should be flushed and full of the new fluid which was added at the dip stick.

magic_max

What is the consequence for air in the tranny? What are the symptoms?

Thanks,
magic_max
'96SE

nfafan

Don't know, the JATCO 3N71B on my 74 Datsun has a small vent, kind like the rear diff. I don't think it would hurnt any in ours.

By "sucking air", I meant that with a break in the closed-loop, one would eventually pull all the tranny fluid out of the tranny-cooler passages - followed by - nothing but air. Need to replace that space with something.

I pulled the tranny cooler lines off my car to replace the cooler lines, starting at the rad side, both inlet and return. Both sides weeped a tad of fluid from the cooler, so certainly some remains behind in the cooler and must be pulled or pushed out to flush.

I am convinced that the proper way to flush is to go into the cooler lines on the rad inlet side, then have the inlet line - now disconnected from the rad - go into the flusher machine. The flusher now pushes clean fluid thru the cooler, thru the return, into the tranny, out the tranny into the flusher. Keeps the closed-loop tranny cooling system CLOSED.

BBaker025

iTrader: (1)

Someone told me that you shouldnt change ur ATF yourself, cause it was poisionus. Is this ture, im not crazy about paying 125 at dealer to do this.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

It's dangerous if you drink it ATF isn't any more harmful than changing your oil, and actually has some great detergent properties to it so your hands stay clean, but slippery. DIY.