I was crusin along autodynamics.com page when i saw these cross drilled rotors by J-Power for $180.....that's right! $180 a pair. I thought this must be a joke since the brembo cross drilled is well over $1000 a pair. Anybody know anything about these rotors or better yet does anyone have them on their max? I'd hate to spend unnecessary money for some cheap sh*t but if this is quality stuff than i have no probs saving a few hundred dollars going with a not so popular name brand.

 

The cross drilled rotors for $180 are just two rotors that are factory size to replace your your stock size rotors. The over $1k ones that you're thinking about are the big brake kit that will not only give you a pair of LARGER rotors, they will also give you the four piston calipers (and maybe the pads and stainless steel brake lines, I don't remember what's included). But basically, that price is for the BIG BRAKE KIT, not just the rotors.

John

 

yeah i see what you mean. My mechanic says that my stock rotors are on their last cut so should i just buy these cross drilled replacements instead of going to nissan and buying stock rotors. I know the cross drilled looks better but i'm also concerned with the quality of the rotors. Have you ever heard of J-Power?

 

no stock rotors are fine in fact autocrossers use them w/ no problems. i rather spend $ towards pads manufactured by Bendix, etc.

 

actually motor trend tested the BIG BRAKE kit on their 4th generation SMX test_model and got longer stopping distances. they even called them "overkill" I believe...

 

What about cross-drilled by stillen . I believe they're about 180+ for a set of front rotors. I don't know if this too expensive. regular oem rotors go for 100 bucks a piece which isn't cheap. the problem w/ cross drilled from what I've heard is that at times it might crack due to braking to hard. anyone know about that?

 

Like auto-X or some other form of driving that requires lots of braking from high speeds, where serious heat buildup occurs. That's why those guys use solid or slotted rotors. Cross-drilled rotors are just fine for everyday street use.

You also have to be careful about what kind of pads you select. Some can actually damage the rotors!!

 

Anyone looking to buy new brakes listen to what I have to say about my experience with STILLEN. I recently purchased a set of cross drilled rotors and pads from stillen and within (3) YES THREE days there were huge gauges in the rotors. I then called Stillen to let them know and they basically didnt care. The rotors are over priced garbage, and you can get much better one for less.Now the best part The most important thing is the pads dont get cheep ones like Stillens thats why they ruined my new rotors THE PADS THEY SELL ARE PADS FROM PEPBOYS IN A STILLEN BOX( I swear thats what they told me) The brakes are far worse than the stock, so bad infact I ran my car off the road because I couldnt stop. basically DONT BUY BRAKES FROM STILLEN THEY SUCK and they dont care.

 

...gauges? Was it a tachometer or something smaller like a fuel gauge or even smaller, like a dummy light? That's quite a transformation: rotors to huge gauges! I'd like to see that.

 

ha ha ha ha! that was a good one

 

Hey jason. thanks for the advice about the stillen cross - drilled brakes. I was just about to get them there too. Dude at stillen was telling me how great they are.. and this nonsense and I almost believed him. I guess I'm going to go with another brand. any one heard of the ame or aem brakes? forgot the name. they're 13 in cross drilled.

 

Those c/d rotors should be fine.

I have brembo c/d on front, and KVR c/d on rear.

Had em for years, no warping.

Get a carbon based pad, and it won't eat rotors.

I think the people who have bad experience w/ c/d rotors are exceptional cases. For the most part, I think majority will say they work lots better than oem, w/o the warping potential.

I have a new set of porterfield carbon kevlar pads for sale if interested. $75 shipped. let me know.

Ming

 

I got got drossed and slotted front rotors for my maxima for $176 shipped. I haven't had any problems with them and they are definitely better than stock ones. These rotors are made by Bradi (Brembo's Brother - NO KIDDING). So I guess since they come from the same family, they can't be that bad. Anyway, here is their number. Ricambi Sport: 1877-742-2625

 

I cant speak for Jasonmeter but I owned a 3rd gen. 92 SE and I purchased a set of cross-drilled rotors from Stillen. The rotors are fine, as a matter of fact I find them to be of very good quality. The down side are they're pads. My pads wore all the way to the bone in about a year. It wore so bad it began to cut into the rotor and the next day I popped some new pads in and my rotors continued to perform flawlessly.

Stillen rotors= very good
Stillen pads= poor

 

well the brakes on the max are big enough so they don't warp. believe me when i tell u this...under heavy use the cross drills will warp faster than blank rotors. drilled rotors are made to heat up faster thus providing better performance on higher temp brake pads. since the rotors are drilled there's less material to heat sink to..so the rotor will heat up faster. they also cool faster since there are holes in them..but rapid heat and cooling..(IE heavy city driving) will warp the rotor.
drilled rotors also add wear on the brake pads. the holes acts like a cheese grater and grate small amount of material off the pad, so no glazing of the pad will occur.
on a street driven car ONLY BUY drilled rotors for looks. they don't do much for you in terms of performance. like someone said..the $ should be put to better pads. keep in mind you can't cut or resurface drilled and slotted rotors. so if they have grooves in them due to overheating are are pretty much paper weight.
i'm sure someone will want to debate/flame this...so bring it on..i've been doing brakes for yrs now and i've seen what works and what doesn't.
Dan
P.S. personally i recommend brembo rotors..never had a problem with them.

 

It works fine on my cousin's mercedes S500...
i just ordered a set of 4 brembo's and its on it's way with carbon metalic pads...
hope not all this negative is true
Vic

 

I just bought a '97 SE with 29k miles and the rotors seem to be warped. Under hard braking there's a pretty bad pulse. I know the car wasn't beat on in it's prior life (verified lady driven). Is there any chance of resurfacing the rotors and replacing the pads? Or is it better to replace both? I'll go for stock so does anyone know the cost of stock rotors and pads from, say, Courtesy? I've replaced pads and calipers before so I'm sure I can probably handle this. Any hints?

 

Well Dan, some I agree w/, some I don't.

Yes, I can see the faster heating up & cooling part. Although my regular Atlanta traffic has not caused any warping in my c/d rotors in 3 yrs.

The pad wear is higher, definitely true. No arguement there.

I do want to say that there IS sufficent gain in stopping power from c/d vs oem, cause I hanve a 96 w/ oem pads & porterfields, and a 99 w/ c/d and porterfields. My 99 DEFINITELY stops better. For looks and for more stopping power, its a win win situation if you buy a good quality c/d rotor.

Yes, for street, definitely use c/d, and not slotted.

Now, here is the big statement that will definitely get me flamed, but I have turned my c/d rotors once. Just very slightly I have to say. When I first got my used 96 max, the calipers were w/o the anti-squeak spread clips. My brakes were making a hiss hiss hiss sound as I drove down the road. I turned the rotors thinking the aftermarket rotors were too thick and out of spec. I knew it was not the recommended thing to do, but I did it out of frustration at the time. That didn't even solve my problem anyway. To this day, I'm still using the same rotors on my 99.

Any comments welcome.

Ming

 

have u seen the size of the rotor on the MB?? i'm sure your cousin never overheated the rotors to the point that they faded right? prob not. if your cousin is doing some heavy heavy braking..to the point when you hit the pedal the car does not stop then that will prob warp the rotors..drilled rotors at that point will NOT help u.
well what i'm saying is that if you warp with stock rotors..then you'll warp with drilled rotors.
so if you're NOT warping the stock rotors then the drilled should be ok.
Dan

 

well if the rotor is warped pretty bad then i recommend you getting new rotors and pads. if you resurface/cut your rotors you'll have less material for the brakes to heat sink to..(cool your brakes down)...so it'll warp even faster.
some tips for you..
-lady driver doesn't mean the brakes weren't abused..i see a lot of slow drivers ride the brakes or over brake and etc.
-avoid rapid temp change on the rotor..IE driving on the hwy and all of the sudden a very fast stop..the fast heating and cooling sometime* warp rotors.
-avoid carwashes or washing your car when the brakes are hot..the cool water will cool the rotor unevenly (not cool as much on the part the pads are on). it will eventually warp them.
not sure on cost..expect the cost of pads around 30-40 bucks..maybe 50-60 for each rotor..non drilled or slotted.
let me know if u have any more questions.
Dan

 

yes there's a gain in stopping distance..no doubt about it.
in your situation..the pads run slightly better when heated..(i run porterfields all around myself and the pads stop better when heated a little). but if the rotors over heat the rotors will warp...since drilled rotors heat up a lot more and faster chance of warping the rotors.
but don't get me wrong...C/D rotors w/ perf pads def stops better than stock. just gotta be more careful w/ heating them too much.
Dan
P.S. no flames...it's just a discussion.

 

ok.. so brembo rotors are ok from what I'm reading? where and how much would it cost for me to get those? And also, has anyone heard about the apex brake pads? i'm getting confused.

 

For Porsche's racing team, and the Skyline they're good enough for you

 

i agree...

Dan