Okie..........clutch has 97k on it. Seems fine for normal driving.
"Very aggressive" driving = I can tell the clutch is having a hardtime gripping. Not quite slipping...

Not that a clutch should be able to chirp 2nd is a sign of a new or good clutch.

If I try to chirp 2nd.......99% of the time it wont. I can feel it dragging it out. Normal driving its fine.

I will have nitrous in a couple of weeks.

So....

Just how hard is installing new clutch guts for someone who has never done it?

I have a manual, access to the base hobby shop (lift, tools, etc...i think they can even resurface the flywheel).

Or should I suck it up and pay the 500$ I was quoted. That was with me providing the clutch kit.

Anyone org members in NJ who do this all the time and have a shop?

Aaron

 

500.00 Seems kinda high. I got quoted for 250.00 for labor, and 20.00 to resurface the flywheel.

 

No kidding.......no way im paying that much.

Aaron

 

I suggest that you to a mechanic that has done clutch install on a Max before.

 

Ill ask around

Aaron

 

i was reading my Haynes manual and it does not seem THAT hard..

i didn't know the flywheel has to be resurfaced....?

that i guess u can't do yourself..

 

It "Seems" fairly straight foward....drop the axle.....tranny....etc.

resurfacing might not need to be done in all cases.....but its good practice...

Aaron

 

Now....what clutch kit should I get?

ACT sounds good.....pricey tho. $300.00 ?

I hear the stock OEM clutch can take the power. Kits vary...Exedy OEM kits are on Ebay for $130.00 (not sure on quality...although they are japanese kits and several skylines use the race quality exedy) so it cant be that bad.

Maximadriver.com mentions a ACT pressure plate/w 300ZX disc. $280.?



Aaron

 

can't say if a stock clutch will handle and extra 20-60+ HP from nitrous....but i did just do the clutch in my last max (95 SE) a few months ago.

definately need to get the car up in the air...I had the rear end on ramps and the front up on stands right under the suspension arm pivot (watch out where you put the stands, too far back and you'll see your max bow down in front. I was also doing timing chain so the engine cross member was out as well)

air tools are your friend to get the pressure plate & flywheel off...you don't need to hold the engine from spinning then. If the rear main seal is OK, its a gravey job.

I recommend resurfacing the flywheel as well...i think i paid $28. Getting the half shafts out was probably the hardest part. i just took the whole support bearing assembly off on the passenger side cause i couldn't get it apart. the drivers side shaft doesn't clear the upright all that well and I nicked the wheel seal so replaced that $15 hard-to-find part...passenger side clears hub easy...no need to pop the tie rods off. Lining the splines up on reassembly is all but impossible to do alone.

FYI: you have a really clear view of the egr valve from underneath...at your age/mileage, I might consider replacing it.

my opinion...anything over $275-300 do it your self....for $250 even a do it yourselfer like me woudl gladly pay the money.

enjoy...John

 

A friend of mine knows someone who did his tranny for 200....so i might just do that

A new EGR vavle then is a good idea.....easy access!

Aaron

 

I just took out a clutch from a friends car and swapped it with another. 2.5 hrs to get it out, another 2.5 to get it in. Thats using basic tools and putting it on jackstands and dropping the tranny on my chest. Not that hard really if you can bench press around 140 or more. It might be a pita if your bolts havent been taken off for years. Having air tools would save so much time.

 

Ive heard people doing it that was as well. Its not slipping bad enough to change immediately. Heck it could be me getting on the gas too soon. Im going to monitor my shifting a bit and see if im dragging the clutch or something.... It doesnt do it every hard shift so it might just be my feet getting ahead of me.



Aaron