Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
11-08-2002, 12:16 PM
#1
Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Hi all,
I took the car to my trusted shop today to take a look at the exhaust sytem. I brough my Carsound Cat with me (without flanges), and we chate while looking at the entire exhaust sytem. I need your opinion on this, should I just install the Y-pipe (from Budget) only, or save up and get the whole section?
Bottom line is, he said it's not worth it just to install the Y-pipe only. He told me that it would be more worthwhile to change the Y-pipe, put the proper cat (the one I brought seems "longer" and "bigger") in, and install the B-pipe as well. That way, it is a complete exhaust replacement.
He also told me that Y-pipe will fail emissions (true) but he said that the stock cat seems to be fine. Which leads me to another question, what is the expected useful life of a cat? 10 years?
What about if I just by the Y-pipe, the B-pipe and leave the stock cat on?
Need your feedback guys!
Thanks,
Armand
I took the car to my trusted shop today to take a look at the exhaust sytem. I brough my Carsound Cat with me (without flanges), and we chate while looking at the entire exhaust sytem. I need your opinion on this, should I just install the Y-pipe (from Budget) only, or save up and get the whole section?
Bottom line is, he said it's not worth it just to install the Y-pipe only. He told me that it would be more worthwhile to change the Y-pipe, put the proper cat (the one I brought seems "longer" and "bigger") in, and install the B-pipe as well. That way, it is a complete exhaust replacement.
He also told me that Y-pipe will fail emissions (true) but he said that the stock cat seems to be fine. Which leads me to another question, what is the expected useful life of a cat? 10 years?
What about if I just by the Y-pipe, the B-pipe and leave the stock cat on?
Need your feedback guys!
Thanks,
Armand
11-08-2002, 12:19 PM
#2
Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Ohh...another thing, he said it would cost around US$ 250 or so to install the whole exhaust....or probably US$ 150 or so for the Y-pipe.
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
11-08-2002, 01:35 PM
#3
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Originally posted by ardika
Hi all,
I took the car to my trusted shop today to take a look at the exhaust sytem. I brough my Carsound Cat with me (without flanges), and we chate while looking at the entire exhaust sytem. I need your opinion on this, should I just install the Y-pipe (from Budget) only, or save up and get the whole section?
Bottom line is, he said it's not worth it just to install the Y-pipe only. He told me that it would be more worthwhile to change the Y-pipe, put the proper cat (the one I brought seems "longer" and "bigger") in, and install the B-pipe as well. That way, it is a complete exhaust replacement.
He also told me that Y-pipe will fail emissions (true) but he said that the stock cat seems to be fine. Which leads me to another question, what is the expected useful life of a cat? 10 years?
What about if I just by the Y-pipe, the B-pipe and leave the stock cat on?
Need your feedback guys!
Thanks,
Armand
Hi all,
I took the car to my trusted shop today to take a look at the exhaust sytem. I brough my Carsound Cat with me (without flanges), and we chate while looking at the entire exhaust sytem. I need your opinion on this, should I just install the Y-pipe (from Budget) only, or save up and get the whole section?
Bottom line is, he said it's not worth it just to install the Y-pipe only. He told me that it would be more worthwhile to change the Y-pipe, put the proper cat (the one I brought seems "longer" and "bigger") in, and install the B-pipe as well. That way, it is a complete exhaust replacement.
He also told me that Y-pipe will fail emissions (true) but he said that the stock cat seems to be fine. Which leads me to another question, what is the expected useful life of a cat? 10 years?
What about if I just by the Y-pipe, the B-pipe and leave the stock cat on?
Need your feedback guys!
Thanks,
Armand
You won't fail emmissions as long is your car is at operating temperature.
11-08-2002, 02:12 PM
#4
Re: Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
I30tMikeD,
Totally agree with your point. I am investigating where to find the "Kroll" now. It's supposed to be the best penetrating oil and hopefully someone will let me know what is the size of the bolt on the Y-pipe and how to remove the O2 sensors.
If I am just installing the Y-pipe and have all the tools, I will take care of it myself.
*Josh, where the h*** are you???*
Totally agree with your point. I am investigating where to find the "Kroll" now. It's supposed to be the best penetrating oil and hopefully someone will let me know what is the size of the bolt on the Y-pipe and how to remove the O2 sensors.
If I am just installing the Y-pipe and have all the tools, I will take care of it myself.
*Josh, where the h*** are you???*
Originally posted by I30tMikeD
Ha Ha. I wonder why neloc187 ran a 13.99 with out a cat-back. Really, a cat-back won't give you much. Maybe 7hp. While a Y-pipe alone will give you at least 15hp. When it comes to modding my VQ the only people I trust are org. memebers. Remember, not all cars are the same. He might know a great deal of general information on cars, but listen to the people here. He is also way over charging you. Y-pipe install is only a bolt on affair. It should take him 30-45 min. I can get a complete cat-back installed at a local shop for $100, as long as nothing needs to be bent or welded to fit.
You won't fail emmissions as long is your car is at operating temperature.
Ha Ha. I wonder why neloc187 ran a 13.99 with out a cat-back. Really, a cat-back won't give you much. Maybe 7hp. While a Y-pipe alone will give you at least 15hp. When it comes to modding my VQ the only people I trust are org. memebers. Remember, not all cars are the same. He might know a great deal of general information on cars, but listen to the people here. He is also way over charging you. Y-pipe install is only a bolt on affair. It should take him 30-45 min. I can get a complete cat-back installed at a local shop for $100, as long as nothing needs to be bent or welded to fit.
You won't fail emmissions as long is your car is at operating temperature.
11-08-2002, 02:51 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
Re: Re: Re: Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Originally posted by Conrad283
from what i heard the y-pipe isn't that hard to install ... check maximadriver.com for directions
from what i heard the y-pipe isn't that hard to install ... check maximadriver.com for directions
SuDZ
11-08-2002, 02:59 PM
#7
Thanks Guys!
The key word here is being the "VERY rusted bolts?"
You guys might not believe this, but I broke one of the ground bolts when I was installing the Hyperground wires 2 nights back. The head of the bolt just pop off in my socket wrench but the screw body is still stuck inside the chassis.
Darn rustes bolts....but then I reconnected the ground to the bolt on the fender....with some extension cables. It's a temporary solutions until I rigged another wire connection with more "secure" ground.
That's why I am "scared" of those rusted bolts.
Oh yeah, did any of you know that the dielectric grease are the ones used by Tamiya (you know, the maker of RC cars?). I did not know about that until today.....
You guys might not believe this, but I broke one of the ground bolts when I was installing the Hyperground wires 2 nights back. The head of the bolt just pop off in my socket wrench but the screw body is still stuck inside the chassis.
Darn rustes bolts....but then I reconnected the ground to the bolt on the fender....with some extension cables. It's a temporary solutions until I rigged another wire connection with more "secure" ground.
That's why I am "scared" of those rusted bolts.
Oh yeah, did any of you know that the dielectric grease are the ones used by Tamiya (you know, the maker of RC cars?). I did not know about that until today.....
Originally posted by SuDZ
Just a few VERY rusted bolts. If you can break them loose your home free.
SuDZ
Just a few VERY rusted bolts. If you can break them loose your home free.
SuDZ
11-08-2002, 04:14 PM
#8
If you have trouble getting the bolts off, you can try taking it to a muffler shop and asking them to just change the bolts for you.
It's much easier to take the bolts off after they've been heated up by a blowtorch.
I heard someone did this and only cost him $20-30.
Good luck
It's much easier to take the bolts off after they've been heated up by a blowtorch.
I heard someone did this and only cost him $20-30.
Good luck
11-08-2002, 05:34 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 408
I just installed a Y-pipe, and the manifold bolts wern't hard to get off at all, (you'll need deep well swivel sockets and long extensions) but the ones connecting to the catalytic converter were a B*TCH! The nuts on the front of the cat finally came loose, but I thought for sure the studs would break... If that would happen, you'd have a serious setback.
As for the bolts at the rear of the converter, those broke off... even when heated to cherry red with a torch. I ended blowing the broken bolts out of there with the torch and using bolts and nuts to connect the new B-pipe to the cat. (of course, if you are using a new converter, you'll probably have new hardware as well and this won't be much of an issue... just break em' off!)
The bolts holding the muffler on broke off as well.
As these cars get older (especially ones driven in rain and snow) the exhaust systems tend to rust more, and are more of a pain to deal with... especially areas that are exposed to intense heat (anywhere around the converter) and places that get a lot of road spray. (muffler flange)
Unless you've done a LOT of Nissan Maxima Y-pipe swaps AND everything goes smoothly, the Y-pipe alone is NOT a 35-45 minute job.... especially if you've got rusted, stuck bolts. The cat-back is even more susceptible to rusted fastners... and long delays if you have to reuse any of the stock parts.
Use 6-point wrenches and sockets, (the end where they fit over the bolt head looks like a hexagon) and make sure they are on the bolts square to avoid rounding off the corners of the bolt heads. If they round off, you're stuck with trying to get them off with vice-grips or a 'smoke wrench'. (torch)
I had no problems with the oxygen sensors. They were obviously installed with never-seize from the factory.
Good Luck!
As for the bolts at the rear of the converter, those broke off... even when heated to cherry red with a torch. I ended blowing the broken bolts out of there with the torch and using bolts and nuts to connect the new B-pipe to the cat. (of course, if you are using a new converter, you'll probably have new hardware as well and this won't be much of an issue... just break em' off!)
The bolts holding the muffler on broke off as well.
As these cars get older (especially ones driven in rain and snow) the exhaust systems tend to rust more, and are more of a pain to deal with... especially areas that are exposed to intense heat (anywhere around the converter) and places that get a lot of road spray. (muffler flange)
Unless you've done a LOT of Nissan Maxima Y-pipe swaps AND everything goes smoothly, the Y-pipe alone is NOT a 35-45 minute job.... especially if you've got rusted, stuck bolts. The cat-back is even more susceptible to rusted fastners... and long delays if you have to reuse any of the stock parts.
Use 6-point wrenches and sockets, (the end where they fit over the bolt head looks like a hexagon) and make sure they are on the bolts square to avoid rounding off the corners of the bolt heads. If they round off, you're stuck with trying to get them off with vice-grips or a 'smoke wrench'. (torch)
I had no problems with the oxygen sensors. They were obviously installed with never-seize from the factory.
Good Luck!
11-08-2002, 05:52 PM
#10
Re: Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Originally posted by ardika
Ohh...another thing, he said it would cost around US$ 250 or so to install the whole exhaust....or probably US$ 150 or so for the Y-pipe.
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
Ohh...another thing, he said it would cost around US$ 250 or so to install the whole exhaust....or probably US$ 150 or so for the Y-pipe.
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
i got mine put in for $40 cash. if i were you, i'd just try it yourself and save the money.. the bolts are the hardest part about the install.
11-08-2002, 06:23 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 408
I believe about all those bolts and nuts were 14mm... except for the oxygen sensors, which require an open end 7/8" or 22mm wrench. (either will work) You can also use a 'special' oxygen sensore socket.
I'd go for doing the Y-pipe yourself if you've got the tools. If you need to reuse any of the existing cat-back, I'd probably take that part to a muffler shop.
Good Luck!
I'd go for doing the Y-pipe yourself if you've got the tools. If you need to reuse any of the existing cat-back, I'd probably take that part to a muffler shop.
Good Luck!
11-08-2002, 06:43 PM
#12
Re: Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
Originally posted by ardika
Ohh...another thing, he said it would cost around US$ 250 or so to install the whole exhaust....or probably US$ 150 or so for the Y-pipe.
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
Ohh...another thing, he said it would cost around US$ 250 or so to install the whole exhaust....or probably US$ 150 or so for the Y-pipe.
Plus, the bolts on the Y-pipe and the cat seems to be rusted. Anybody knows what is the size of those bolts....and do you guys thing extension would be beneficial in this matter?
What is the torque set up for those bolts?
11-08-2002, 07:20 PM
#13
Re: Re: Re: Exhaust Sytem: Y-pipe Install, B-pipe and Cat
He is not my friend.....but I have taken the car there several times and they do quality work.
However, I agree that they are overcharging me if they need more than 2 hours to get the Y-pipe and the cat done.
However, I agree that they are overcharging me if they need more than 2 hours to get the Y-pipe and the cat done.
Originally posted by johnvt1111
youre mechanic is an idiot, and if he's you're friend he's overcharging you.......150 is totally obnoxious, it would take anyone in a shop environment no more than 45 minutes
youre mechanic is an idiot, and if he's you're friend he's overcharging you.......150 is totally obnoxious, it would take anyone in a shop environment no more than 45 minutes
11-08-2002, 07:30 PM
#14
About installing the Y-pipe.....(long)
So far, I have done suspension install to my Max, complete brake replacement, RSB, Stillen Intake w/Frankencar, and lastly, the Hyperground wires. I might not be the fastest person around when I am working on my mods, but it did take me 10 hours plus to change my brakes, 3 hours to install Stillen Intake, 5 hours to install Frankencar midpipe, and 2.5 hours to install my Hyperground.
Why? Well.....here is the problem: I need light and man...people were complaining all the time whenever I work on my car.
I could definitely take the time and install the myself, however, it would be difficult since I park my car in the garage (basement). I live in Milwaukee downtown, where these "nice/older/VIP" people supposed to live. My apartment complex used to be THE PLACE back in 1970-1990s. Therefore, I received many complaints from other people who get nervous seeing my car on jack stands or wheel ramps ("What happen if somebody bump into your car? It's hazardous to put the car on wheel ramps....etc...." I know...BS..but how can you explain what you are doing to a person who never changes his flat tire?).
Also, I really like doing everything at once and be peace with it. I mean, If I need to install Y-pipe and cat this time...and B-pipe later on, why don't we just install everything at once?
Moreover, I would really like it if somebody who really knows the process is with me when I am changing the exhaust. It will make me calmer, as a result, will be able to cool down when things go wrong.
Why? Well.....here is the problem: I need light and man...people were complaining all the time whenever I work on my car.
I could definitely take the time and install the myself, however, it would be difficult since I park my car in the garage (basement). I live in Milwaukee downtown, where these "nice/older/VIP" people supposed to live. My apartment complex used to be THE PLACE back in 1970-1990s. Therefore, I received many complaints from other people who get nervous seeing my car on jack stands or wheel ramps ("What happen if somebody bump into your car? It's hazardous to put the car on wheel ramps....etc...." I know...BS..but how can you explain what you are doing to a person who never changes his flat tire?).
Also, I really like doing everything at once and be peace with it. I mean, If I need to install Y-pipe and cat this time...and B-pipe later on, why don't we just install everything at once?
Moreover, I would really like it if somebody who really knows the process is with me when I am changing the exhaust. It will make me calmer, as a result, will be able to cool down when things go wrong.
11-08-2002, 07:53 PM
#16
Re: Re: About installing the Y-pipe.....(long)
Allright...you are asking for it....
Started at 9.30am, walked to the car and open the hood.
Ask my girlfriend to hold the hood up since my hood struts were not working (I replaced them later on, but it's after the midpipe, took me about 1 hour).
Took the acordeon piece, about 20 minutes or so (inspection all those hoses, and then take out the Stillen bracket.
Decided to clean up TB, took me about 30 minutes or so (but it's not clean enough, had to repeat this later).
Tried to put the midpipe in and try to align it nicely with Stillen intake (this is where things get so tricky...you know it if you have installed the midpipe with Stillen Intake). After 1.5 hours, I got things lined up (with repeated rest and frustation, and BTW, don't forget that my gf is still holding the hood up).
Install things back again and test drive the car. Guess what, the throttle is sticky at 3000 rpm, and will climb up to fuel cut off.
Got back to the garage, and moving the throttle linkage seems to be sticky. Open everything up again (yeah, everything) and clean up the TB more. Guess what, I really need to brush the inside of the TB with the toothbrush....
Fixed everything back again (this time is much faster since I know how things are supposed to line up) and take it for a test drive.
This time the throttle is stuck at 4000 rpm.
Got back to the garage, tried to move the throttle linkage, and it was one of the bolts that secures the hose to the TB. The throttle linkage got stuck with the bolts, so I have to change the orientation/location of the bolt so it will not obstruct the throttle linkage.
There.
Total time is about 5 hours....my girlfriend arms are sore...my mind is tired since we have to diagnose the problem everytime.....but it's a good thing that we make sure everything is tight and proper.
Are you going to ask me why it took me 10 hours plus to change the brakes? It involves neighbor complaints, apartment manager, looking for the right screw to fit into that little hole of the disc, calling a friend for a torch (no effect, we went with the bolt instead), cleaning the calipers, paint them and re-assemble everything.
Mann.....sometimes I don't understand myself.....whether I am dumb or just plain slow.....
. Jeff (New York, Long Island) only took about 1 hour and 45 minutes to modify my VB and replace the solenoids, replace the fuel filter, change the PCV valve, and put back everything in.
Interesting...
Started at 9.30am, walked to the car and open the hood.
Ask my girlfriend to hold the hood up since my hood struts were not working (I replaced them later on, but it's after the midpipe, took me about 1 hour).
Took the acordeon piece, about 20 minutes or so (inspection all those hoses, and then take out the Stillen bracket.
Decided to clean up TB, took me about 30 minutes or so (but it's not clean enough, had to repeat this later).
Tried to put the midpipe in and try to align it nicely with Stillen intake (this is where things get so tricky...you know it if you have installed the midpipe with Stillen Intake). After 1.5 hours, I got things lined up (with repeated rest and frustation, and BTW, don't forget that my gf is still holding the hood up).
Install things back again and test drive the car. Guess what, the throttle is sticky at 3000 rpm, and will climb up to fuel cut off.
Got back to the garage, and moving the throttle linkage seems to be sticky. Open everything up again (yeah, everything) and clean up the TB more. Guess what, I really need to brush the inside of the TB with the toothbrush....
Fixed everything back again (this time is much faster since I know how things are supposed to line up) and take it for a test drive.
This time the throttle is stuck at 4000 rpm.
Got back to the garage, tried to move the throttle linkage, and it was one of the bolts that secures the hose to the TB. The throttle linkage got stuck with the bolts, so I have to change the orientation/location of the bolt so it will not obstruct the throttle linkage.
There.
Total time is about 5 hours....my girlfriend arms are sore...my mind is tired since we have to diagnose the problem everytime.....but it's a good thing that we make sure everything is tight and proper.
Are you going to ask me why it took me 10 hours plus to change the brakes? It involves neighbor complaints, apartment manager, looking for the right screw to fit into that little hole of the disc, calling a friend for a torch (no effect, we went with the bolt instead), cleaning the calipers, paint them and re-assemble everything.
Mann.....sometimes I don't understand myself.....whether I am dumb or just plain slow.....
. Jeff (New York, Long Island) only took about 1 hour and 45 minutes to modify my VB and replace the solenoids, replace the fuel filter, change the PCV valve, and put back everything in.Interesting...
Originally posted by Conrad283
how come it took so long?
how come it took so long?
11-09-2002, 05:58 AM
#17
5 hours for a midpipe is a long time....hell, only took us an hour to MAKE my custom mid pipe and install it 
about the y pipe, i was there most of the time when the shop was installing it....the put a **** load of liquid wrench or whatever, and had power tools....the install was about an hour or so, because i went for a test drive, and noticed the y pipe knocking against the heatshield for the cat, so i wnt back, they lifted it up again, and i was on my way, happy as a dog
also, you can go to your local autozone, and rent o2 sensor wrench to take out the o2 sensor's easier
about the y pipe, i was there most of the time when the shop was installing it....the put a **** load of liquid wrench or whatever, and had power tools....the install was about an hour or so, because i went for a test drive, and noticed the y pipe knocking against the heatshield for the cat, so i wnt back, they lifted it up again, and i was on my way, happy as a dog
also, you can go to your local autozone, and rent o2 sensor wrench to take out the o2 sensor's easier
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