alright I did the mod and wired it to my switch and everything. It works GREAT and everything but my Service Engine light WILL NOT go off... I even tried re-connecting the wires like they originally were and it just wont go off.. Is the something about resetting an MIL?? I dont know but im sure who ever has done this probably had the same problem.. what do I do?? Thanks a lot.

 

Mine just resets itself, and its a 97 SE too. Try resetting the ECU.

 

mine automatically resets as well.....97 GXE

 

mine turns off and back on and then back off. like JIME said, reset the ecu and it should stay off.

 

I havebeen gone from the org for a while and i don't ever recall hearing anything about this mod? Anyone care to elaborate, my search function is fuct right now.

 

Courtesy of mzmtg

http://bgarner.tripod.com/1995nissanmaxima/id3.html

 

thanks man

 

I tried this out myself by unplugging the harness. The 1-2 shift I could feel the jolt, but the 2-3 and 3-4 shift I couldn't feel anything. I think this if it work at all is purely for the street, from a stop. From a roll and highway run, there's no difference I could tell of.

 

It only works really for the 1-2 shift, and i have a 95 GLE and i have to reset the ecu everytime i do it. Which is weird cause the first few times i did it, it reset itself. Oh well, i still use it every now and then works well. Brian

 

yea, i heard alot about this... but i am going to be VERY hesitant about doing this to my max... i mean does anyone know for sure that this is safe to do, and it will not harm the tranny? has anyones tranny been acting up since they did this mod?

 

this is not a mod you use all day everyday. it is purely for racing. the shifts are extremely harsh and not fit for daily use. i've had it for two months now using it a few times a week and i have not noticed anything wrong. the principle behind the mod is that the tranny ecu will be tricked into going into failsafe and apply full line pressure.

 

Yeah.. I just reset the ECU and everything is fine... like Romeo said this isnt something you should use everyday. Shoot I wouldnt want my car to shift like that all the time. That would DEFINITELY be bad... but every once in a while cant cause too much harm it seems to me. Just do it right and make a switch.

 

does it really make a diffrence? i mean does it improve the cars performance by actually making the car go faster? or does it just make it feel like it is going faster. has anyone did a g-tech reading on 0-60 before and after times? thanks guys, i just do not want to do this to my car and have someting happen to it later down the line.

 

Are you turning the screw in the computer to reset it?

or

Are you unplugging the battery to reset it?

Which works?

 

Gotta turn the screw, unplugging the battery won't do it.

 

Thats what I figured, people might mention that to newbies since some see reseting the ECU after a mod as unplugging the battery. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

Sorry to be off topic...but NICE CAR ross!! A CF hood will match your car perfectly. Good job having the stock tails on there too =) How heavy are those 18" you have on there, they are nice.

 

thanks man I really appreciate that... you think carbon fiber looks good on white?? I dont know Ive never really given it any thought.. and the rims are 18" Motegi MR7... I used to have stock SE wheels and with tire they weighed like 45 and these with tire weigh like 47 so not much difference. at least thats what the scale said... might be off some.

 

well, i chirp into second gear on a wide open throttle run. couldn't do that before. all i have is an intake. i raced my buddy's "built" '88 mustang 5.0 and usually he smokes me pretty good, but now he doesn't smoke me so bad.

the mod doesn't give you any more HP or free up power. instead of the tranny taking x amount of time to shift, this mod reduces that time. in the end, you have faster times.

 

I haven't gotten a chance to do the switch yet, but at the track tomorrow, I'll disconnect the sensor a few times and do some runs with it....i'll post tomorrow what my times were with and without

 

yeah definitely post your times... i just installed everything today... and It works great. I LOVE IT!! I guess Ill see how it works when i race someone.

 

yea, i can't wait untill i see what you pull for results. keep us posted.

 

did you go to the track yet?? I want some results

 

Okay, i did this mod yesterday. took about ten minutes. My question is what code goes off and what happens if the sensor that controls that code breaks. I figure someone must have had that sensor fail and if it did, what are the long tern effects of it not working? I ask this because i figure that using the switch to disconnect it is like the sensor failing and sending it into safe mode.

 

ok i went to the track on sunday...i had 3 runs total....2 of them were with the sensor intact, the other was with it disconnected....1st 2 runs with it on, 15.7x....3rd run, without it, 15.6x

10th of a second id suppose, but i would have loved to have gotten a few more runs in with it disconnected

 

what mods do you have and tires? and did you chirp into second? i have an intake with some fairly new 225 - 18"s and can bairly chirp. on my studs however, i can chirp into 2nd easily and i'll try third after work today.

 

One day my axle broke on my car, and I took it to a tranny shop. I asked the guy if he could do something with my valvebody so I would get better et's. He disconnects this wire under my hood behind the airbox, that go's to my Resister. He said by doing this, not only will car be quicker it will prolong my Transmisson, because its creates more line Presure. It will give more harsh of a shift but direct shifts are better than slipping into gear The reason for the resister is to make it more of a luxury shifting which is more wear on the clutches in your tranny, even when I went to the dealer the manager there said harsher shifts are better for your tranny it will last longer, but one thing get a tranny cooler becuase when you disconect the wire from the resister you will create more line presure which in turn causes the fliud to get hot which isn't great for your tranny either. Doing the drop resister mod, will not hurt the Transmission, according to a transmission shop. Its like doing the mobletec mod, but with out the high cost. It will also make your car 5 tenths faster.

 

 

We owe it all to Ben for this amazing mod, I still marvel at its simplicity and effectiveness. How many autos can chirp second?

I have also tried many different combo's of resistors to try and get a compromise of a pressure in between full line pressure and stock with no success.

I have tried in 1 ohm steps from stock down to zero and also higher with no change, so my read is its either full line pressure or stock.

You still want to have a switch though because its really way too harsh for normal driving.

Thats why I love the automatic and nitrous, (its like a switch) you can go to the track and with 20 mins prep, run low 13's (hopefully 12's this year) bring the car home and your wife uses it as a grocery getter and can't tell it from stock. Mine is still a mid 15 sec car on the street. (Unlike some people who can do low 15's or high 14's) I hate you.