downsider

So do all you guys with a 5 speed have trouble with your cluthches? I read a car and driver road test that said they had to replace the cluth every 40,000 miles, and it cost aroun 750$ to replace. Have all you guys had this problem? Would buying a performance clutch last longer than 40,000 miles, and how much would that cost?

heems27

In general, Maxima clutches are pretty strong. The reason why Car & Driver had to replace the clutch is that they are automotive journalists and they tend to abuse the hell out of cars. My Max has 45K on it and I replaced the clutch with a ACT a couple of months ago because I wanted a heavier duty piece. The stock clutch had at least 30K left on it. The only problem that I have is clutch groan and that's common for this car. Hope this helps.

Sin

Not all of us have problems with our clutches. Many have well over 100,000 miles on their original clutches. I know a guy with a 96 with over 200,000 km on his original clutch. It has a lot to do with the driver and how hard the car is driven.

Is 40,000 miles normal? Well considering the car was purchased to be used by staff of a car enthusiast company, or people that know how to drive a car hard, i.e. extract the most performance possible, on cars that they drive regularly, and don't have to pay to maintain, I'd say, that's pretty normal.

Another important point is that the VQ30 is much more engine than the stock clutch is. I mean, comparing the two, it's kinda like having a P4 processor and only 32 megs of ram. Get the picture? It's not that extreme really, I'm just trying to make the analogy clear.

As for a clutch job, if done at the dealership with oe parts, $750 US sounds about right. However, go with say an ACT, at a reputable indy Nissan specialist, and you're looking at less than $750 US.

I paid $310 US for my clutch and about $350 Canadian to have it installed.

As for whether an aftermarket clutch lasting longer than oe . . . it's all a matter of the way in which the car is driven. Under hard driving, I'd be willing to bet yes. With a good driver, and not abused, a replacement on a 4th gen now will probably last the life of the car.

Gramdacious

iTrader: (1)

I had to replace my crappy maxima clutch at around 35,000 miles. That was terrible, and it's not like I'm a bad shifter, I previously owned an "88 Maxima 5sp, and was a Nissan Salesman who drove different Nissan clutches every day. I just got stung with a bad one. I replaced it with a clutchmasters clutch that was a bit stonger than stock, to handle my mods, and it cost me about $150. Installed for about $350, totaled below $500 out the door. I love the clutch. Smooth, strong, and reliable. I have put 35K on the clutch and it is perfect. You might try clutchmasters.

geo1317

iTrader: (17)

I replaced the Stock clutch at 50k and picked up an ACT clutch and i can tell you that its a lot tougher to driver with the ACT after you are used to the stock clutch. i staled the car 4 out of the first 5 lights at which i had to stop, but you get used to it. There is also the little grinding you get in 1st and reverse but its way worth it for the griping power. And with the way the way the clutch is, its easier to drive and shift the car hard than it is to drive slow and smooth, and I don’t mind that.

Sin

Did you break it in properly? The only time I grind now is if I start at too high an rpm. If you keep the slip time (time between when the clutch starts to grab and when you're off the clutch pedal) down to a minimum, i.e. go from a stand still to no slip on the clutch asap, I get no chatter at all.

My car idles at about 550rpm. I blip it to about 900rpm, then within about a second, I'm already on the move with no chatter.

geo1317

iTrader: (17)

oh the clutch if fine now, the only time i notice it is if i try and go nice and smooth, during the break in period it was very noticible though.

Sin

Yah, tell me about it. They first time I drove it, it felt like metal to metal.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

with my ACT i chirp third

geo1317

iTrader: (17)

i think i could have done forth during the break in period but i didnt want to break the thing. But the wheel hop is crazy when i take off hard, cant wait till i drop it, add some ES control Arm bushing and some PR engine mounts

Dave B

I've still got my stock clutch. I've got 91,000 miles, 100+ 1/4 mile passes, lots of hard driving, and the clutch has never slipped once. It still happily chirps second. I will be going with the stock clutch when it comes time. I don't like the way the ACT-equipped Maximas drive.


Dave

Sin

Have you ever driven a properly broken in ACT? I love the way it makes rev matching, heal and toe, double clutching, SO much easier for some reason.

975spEEd

Did you get the "oem replacement" from clutchmasters or the stage
1? Where did you get buy it and would you recommend it over the oem
clutch. Also does it feel pretty much like stock (pedal pressure and
engagement) Thanks

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

I have 126k on my clutch
grabs fine

feels funny though..
i think some spring behind the clutch or something is ****ed up so it squeaks like crazy and goes in kind of rough.. but the clutch is good..

if you abuse it
it will go fast

Sin

If it squeaks when the clutch is depressed it's probably your throwout bearing.

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

thanks,
i was suspecting the same thing..

I know it's not expensive
but as far as getting to it to remove it.. how hard is that?

ericdwong

With my ACT I blow 3rd. I ordered an Exedy clutch, which is supposed to be an OEM equivalent of what came with the car. We shall see. Not too many people seem to have it here.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=170862

Sin

The part itself if cheap, but labour is extensive. It essentially requires removal of the driver side axle, transmission and the clutch. Thus most often, when this labour is performed, most people have the clutch changed out as well.

975spEEd