Jeff Bjerke

When I play some CD's burned on my computer on my '97 SE with the Bose stereo I get a lot of skipping and sometimes an error. It varies from CD to CD, but it is rather consistant on all burned CD's. Factory recorded CD's play fine and my computer burned CD's play fine in my NSX (with Bose system) and M3 factory stereos.
Anyone else have this problem?
Any way to fix this short of installing an aftermarket stereo?

MacGyver265

I've noticed the only time CD error happend in my 97 GLE Bose is when the table of contents section of the CD is messed up (on burned cds). As for skipping, that doesn't happen any more than it would in a new diskman.

Check out www.carstereohelp.com

These guys can repair your stock Bose stereo if something is messed up. You can also get stock Bose componants like speakers and stuff too.

nadir_s

I've burned many home-made CDs... no problems w/ em. Are you sure it's the bose? It's most likely your burner.

s2cmpugh

i agree, i used burned CD's almost all the time and no problem at all. it could be your burner or maybe the laser in your bose is dirty.


and what year is your nsx and color?????

Sean97SE

My burned cd's work fine in my friends bose in his 96. My car didn't come with bose so I dont have another car to try them in.

ALSO!

You have an NSX?

MDubya

Ill Dis agree. Burned CD's are CRAP. They dont actually give you the best quality of music, yes its music but not like the LP.

And yeah i Notice my Burned CD's kinda skip more often than regular LPs. Then again burned cds skratch ALOT easier..

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

It could be 2 things;

1) You over-burn your CD, 80 minutes instead of 74. The Bose head unit seems to not like 80 minutes CDs at all.

2) The CD media you use. I've had good luck with Imation (Blueish green) and the Memorex black CDs.

DW

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

crap is such a strong word..

erty67

iTrader: (104)

I've never had problems using 80 min. disks. Just about all the CDs I use are cheap 80 min CD-Rs.

SunMax

iTrader: (2)

All my burned CDs work fine in the Bose system of my Max. I used all kind of brands -- Memorex, TDK, Maxwell, GQ... The only thing it didn't work is CDRW.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Well, You burned the entire 80 minutes every time and they always worked?

DW

Maxima91

burned cds arent crap, they diliver the same soune, it all depends on your choice of songs, all my burned cds sounds awsome, so thats your own opinion

erty67

iTrader: (104)

always over 74...usually 77-80min. that was on two different head units. i had to replace the first due to a bad volume ****.

Wills98MaxSE

I've played custom CD's when I drove my older sis's '97 SE w/ bose last year, never had a problem

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You download or copy digital music, then copy it digitally to a CD, yet you think analog is better? (LP?)

There is no difference in a store baught or home made CD as far as burn quality goes. It's digital bits, ones and zeroes. 11000111 110010011 1000101101 They always copy perfectly or the dirve will error out. You couldn't copy software if the copy wasn't perfect. And we all know, you can copy software.
It's the same material, pre-recorded or blank. All the same stuff. They don't skip more unless you abuse them. Scratches aren't a problem either, use a good car polish and take the scratch out. I use Meguires Cleaner/Wax, it works perfectly.

Maxima91

agreed, this guy doesnt know Shhhhh about burned cds

lucky_777

My Bose CD never skipped once. I burned all kinds of CDRs some very cheap kinds and always 80 minutes, somitemes made overburn CDs, never a single problem or skip. But it all goes away soon. I ordered Sony CDX-565MXRF MP3 10 CD changer from Crutchfield for $192 shipped. Will get this baby on monday. 120 hours of music for my enjoyment.

FLO_BOY

and it got really bad this past week...wouldn't even BEGIN to play
my CDs...I took one of those compressed air cans (for blowing dust in
computers), sprayed air all around in there, and haven't had a problem
since.

I thought it was the CDs, but, those same CDs work now...

So, it definitely cold be a dirty laser.

good luck,
FLO_BOY

MacGyver265

The only way burned CDs will be poorer quality than a regular CD is if you burn them from a crapily converted MP3 (less than 128kb/sec). I make all my MP3s by sampling at least 44kHz (more than 2x your the highest frequency than your average person can hear), and then compress them to at least 160kb/s or 192kb/s for best quality and least disk space. So now when you uncompress them to WAV files for burning, they will be relatively high quality. If you are stright copying the original CD to a burned CD, there should be Zero difference in sound quality.

Unibomber

all CD-R manufactures use the same mixture in there cds, it just depends what color they add to make the final look.

the only CD-R that wont last long and are crappy are the Generic ones on the spindle of 100...they flake off and scratch very easily due to the fact they do not have any type of paint over the top of the cds that helps with the lasting of the cds.

either way a lot of older car cd players have a hard time reading burned cds

MacGyver265

97+ shouldn't have any problem, I don't have any with mine.

spiff56747

iTrader: (-1)

the only problem i have is mine skips over really big bumps, or sometimes when I'm changing lanes on the highway and my tires hit those things that are supposed to wake u up if youre falling asleep.

I think its just because the AGX/B+G combo is kind of rough though

fierostetz

my personal fav. is verbatim disks. also, i have a few 99min cd's, and some of them read in the max, others don't? kinda wierd, my fiero's stereo reads cdr, cdrw, everything, and was a 150 dollar sony, but the super duper max bose won't read cdrw's or higher capacity discs. try the verbatim ones! metallic azo blue inks, I WANT A CAR THAT COLOR!!!!

Iqb316

I think the issue might be mixing and matching CD-R brands. I noticed with my last two PSX's, whenever I used different kinds of CD-R's (Maxell, Memorex, TDK, Sony, Mitsui, ect) the laser unit would sound like it had to adjust the spinning speed depending on what kind of cd-r I used. The original cd's spin nice and slowly, but for some cd-r's the disc would constantly spin so fast, you'd swear the cd would come flying off its spindle.

Most likely, that kinda use probably puts on a lot of extra wear+tear on the laser unit and spindle if it has to adjust spinning speeds between different brands of cd's. Now I'm on my 3rd PSX and I just stick to one CD-R brand (80 min Verbatim) and it's still running flawlessly, and for my Bose stereo, I use the same principle and run mostly one brand of CD-R and I've never seen any error messages or noticed any skipping so I must be doing something right

Also, if you guys notice bad playback quality, invest in one of those $10 cd laser cleaners, I use it on all my in-house cd-players and it does improve the playback quality a little bit.

MacGyver265

CDs players are programmed to spin at certain speeds depending on where the laser is tracking radially against the CD to achieve the same bit size no matter how far away the laser is from the center of the CD. This does not change from CD to CD, no matter the brand. What you are probably experiencing is an imbalance in the CD causing it to wobble slightly making the noise.

Check out this link for how CDs and CD players work if you're interested: http://www.howstuffworks.com/cd.htm

packetattack

iTrader: (1)

Please stop spreading inaccurate information about the dye composition in CD-R media. MANUFACTURERS DO NOT ALL USE THE SAME MIXTURE IN THEIR CDs. There are differences.

From: CDMEDIAWORLD.COM

"One of four dye types in use today, cyanine, often called "green" dye, was the original CD-R dye referenced in the Orange Book, and has been around for about ten years. TDK was a pioneer in cyanine disc-making. Phthalocyanine dye, generally referred to as "gold" and with us nearly as long as cyanine, was originally used by Mitsui and licensed to Kodak for their discs. Metal Azo dye has been used for about three years in discs manufactured by Mitsubishi/Verbatim. The Mitsubishi/Verbatim discs were the first media since the frontier days of the early Fuji discs to use a silver reflective coating. Phthalocyanine dye appears to be less sensitive to exposure to light after recording, and this may result in greater media longevity.

The color of the CD-R disc is related to the color of the specific dye that was used in the recording layer. This base dye color is modified when the reflective coating (gold or silver) is added. Some of the dye-reflective coating combinations appear green, some appear blue and others appear yellow/gold. Visual differences between various media types are irrelevant from the standpoint of their actual operation. At 780 nm, where CD-R recorders and CD-ROM readers function, the media are, for all intents and purposes, indistinguishable from an optical recording standpoint. They all "look" the same to the devices.

The gold-colored CD-R uses the PhthaloCyanine pigment and a gold reflection layer. As the pigment is transparent, the golden reflection layer shines through the bottom side giving the `golden' look. Compared to the other colored media, the reflection contrast of the golden medium is the highest and the durability of such CD-R's is said to be over 100 years. As the golden medium's reflective property is the highest, if your friends or customers have problems reading data from any other burnt media, try using the gold medium CD-R.

The green CD-R, the cheapest of the three, uses the Cyanine pigment. By itself, the pigment is blue in color, but together with the gold reflective layer, the bottom appears green. However, cyanine's ability to maintain reflectivity is poor giving it a life span of about 10 years. It also delivers the weakest reflection contrasts and thus can cause read errors when run on old CD-ROM drives.
Lately cyanine formula has been altered which results in a much higher life span (20 to 50 years). The gold reflection layer has also been replaced by a silver reflection layer this make the color of the bottom appear blue.

The blue media is made of Azo pigments. Like cyanine, it is blue in color but unlike the green CD-R it uses a silver reflection layer which gives the blue color. Manufacturers claim blue CD-R's are as durable as golden ones.


Cyanine - Taiyo Yuden - Blue
PhthaloCyanine - Mitsui Toatsu Chemicals - Transparent
Metallized Azo - Verbatim/Mitsubishi - Blue
Advanced PhthaloCyanine - Mitsui Toatsu Chemicals - Transparent
Formazan - Kodak Japan Limited - Light Green
"

maximamoose

are you sure that it isn't the songs you download? i have absolutely no problems with mine! i love it! check your burner too.

Jeff Bjerke

I burn from store bought CD's. I have not downloaded any music.
As I stated in my original post, the CD's I burn work fine in my NSX (with Bose) and the M3 (with factory Harmon Kardon). Just got back from driving around and heading into town the CD played fine. On the way back it was shipping etc. on the same tracks that played fine just a couple of hours before. I've run a Maxell (sp?) CD head cleaner with no improvement.
It appears the Bose unit is capable of playing burned CD's as several have no problems. I dropped Bose Repair an e-mail regarding this. I'll forward any interesting response from Bose to the list.
Several have made comments regarding my NSX. If interested you can see pic's at www.thebjerkes.com and go to the NSX page.

Unibomber

hence why i said older

Lime

I haven't had problems with burned CD's, but multimedia or "enhanced" CD's sometimes cause problems, depending on how the data track is written. I'm talking about stuff that has been legally purchased.

shaz

Get some black bottom CD's...they sell 50 pack spindles at Staples for like 25 bucks or so. Burn an audio CD at 2X or 4X, but be sure all of your background programs closed (stuff like kazaa etc can make CD's skip while burning). If that deosnt work, something is probably wrong with your stereo.

sjaz

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Is there a way to make Bose play CDRW? My only plays CDRs.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Some questions and comments:

Who makes the black bottom CDs? Any reputible companies?

About CDs not working in the Bose:
Some brands of CDs seem to work better for burning discs. Why? Because of the depth of the laser. I DO NOT KNOW THE SPECIFICS, but the color of the CD material and its reflective properties are supposed to make a big difference. That is why I am interested in the black-bottomed discs. I have noticed that darker or deeper shades of discs seem to work better.

Brands that i have liked:
Newer verbatim, newer maxell (the old ones were bad).

Brands that worked REALLY well: Sony (never had a bad one) and PIONEER. I got 100 pioneer (in 2 50-packs) @ sears, and they have been THE best. No dropouts, good scratch resistance, and play in everything.

One other thing to consider is the TOP material. When the top is scratch prone, it messes up the reflective properties of the disc, inhibiting the ability fo rthe laser to read the disc. That is why the disc can look fine on the bottom but be messed up on the top and have problems.

All of that said, I have a 96 bose and have had no problems w/ burned discs, even the cheap ones that my brother uses.

And burned discs, if copied in D->D format (no D->A->A->D conversion), are digitally perfect copies (assuming no faulty equipment). Only MP3 to .wav audio conversions are not bit-perfect.

A5295

iTrader: (1)

make sure that when you burn your cd's that you close the cd...if you leave the session open, then it definetly will not play...just my .02

Mike

MacGyver265

I don't know about other people, but I always close the session, but leave the CD open. Otherwise I end up making coasters. Every CD I've burned plays fine unless there's physical damage to the CD. I also haven't tried a lot of other brands, but at least for me, it doesn't seem to matter. Haven't tried CD-RWs.

Lime

my suggestion: USE NERO EZCD Creator is a donkey-lover.

MacGyver265

You giving out free copies Lime???