Test drove '99 maxima - have question
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Test drove '99 maxima - have question
Yesterday I test drove a 1999 Maxima SE with the 5 speed. The car has 49,000 miles and looks good inside and out. New tires, new brakes and the clutch feels good.
I drove the vehicle yesterday evening and as soon as I pull out of the dealership, I make the shift to second, hit the gas and the car lurches when it hits about 3k. It feels similar to hitting the rev limiter or like a fuel cutoff. Initially I thought maybe the car simply has a progressive rev limiter and the car needs to warm up. However, even after being fully warmed up, the car would continue to do the same thing in 1st and 2nd gear and just lose its forward momentum - it was like hitting the rev limiter at 3k or 4k or 5k.
I brought it back to the dealer and they sent a mechanic to drive the car while I rode shotgun and the problem was reproduced. The mechanic thought that the problem could be with the intake boot or with the MAF sensor. The dealership has represented that they will repair the vehicle after they diagnose the problem. I planned on getting an extended warranty anyway and if I buy the car this may give me some leverage in that regard.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what the problem is? Should I just stay away? The price is right and the 5 speed is what I'm looking for, assuming the problem can be repaired. If the dealership will repair it and stand behind it (which I believe they will as my sister has purchased from the same dealer), should I go for it?
Thanks for your help.
I drove the vehicle yesterday evening and as soon as I pull out of the dealership, I make the shift to second, hit the gas and the car lurches when it hits about 3k. It feels similar to hitting the rev limiter or like a fuel cutoff. Initially I thought maybe the car simply has a progressive rev limiter and the car needs to warm up. However, even after being fully warmed up, the car would continue to do the same thing in 1st and 2nd gear and just lose its forward momentum - it was like hitting the rev limiter at 3k or 4k or 5k.
I brought it back to the dealer and they sent a mechanic to drive the car while I rode shotgun and the problem was reproduced. The mechanic thought that the problem could be with the intake boot or with the MAF sensor. The dealership has represented that they will repair the vehicle after they diagnose the problem. I planned on getting an extended warranty anyway and if I buy the car this may give me some leverage in that regard.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what the problem is? Should I just stay away? The price is right and the 5 speed is what I'm looking for, assuming the problem can be repaired. If the dealership will repair it and stand behind it (which I believe they will as my sister has purchased from the same dealer), should I go for it?
Thanks for your help.
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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That sounds like a bad knock sensor. Just have the dealer fix the car. Tell them you want to drive it after it's been fixed. Once it's fixed, and if the price is right, BUY IT!
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UPDATE:
Dealer emailed me today and said it was the MAF. He said it has been fixed, although I don't know if that means he replaced it or performed some sort of repair - will confirm that on my second test drive tomorrow.
Anything else I need to be leery of tomorrow? Assuming everything checks out tomorrow, should I still be concerned? I'm not sure what would cause the MAF failure at 49,000 miles, i.e. could that be a sign of prior abuse or poor maintenance or just some random thing I don't need to be concerned about?
TIA for your thoughts or opinions.
Dealer emailed me today and said it was the MAF. He said it has been fixed, although I don't know if that means he replaced it or performed some sort of repair - will confirm that on my second test drive tomorrow.
Anything else I need to be leery of tomorrow? Assuming everything checks out tomorrow, should I still be concerned? I'm not sure what would cause the MAF failure at 49,000 miles, i.e. could that be a sign of prior abuse or poor maintenance or just some random thing I don't need to be concerned about?
TIA for your thoughts or opinions.
'99 max
RJG-
I sold nissans for three years and have seen every type of deal contingent upon the dealership fixing the problem tht you could possibly see. I also drive a '99 max 5 sp. First off, if the price is right, secure the car for your purchase by signing a "due bill". You can write in the terms of the deal on the due bill or agree with a sales manager if they have written the new deal. Most due bill can give you a buffer, like they'll say "will purchase for x amount of dollars contingent upon the clutch being repaired; up to $700. the dealership will want to protect itself so they will go to the service manager, find out exactly how much it will cost to fix, find cheaper parts if possible, and write it into your sales agreement. Just get it in writing and you'll be fine. If you really want the car then go make a deal with them so it is officially "off-the-market". Once getting the car fixed is in writing, the dealership will not f__k you. But I have seen in so many cases that if you don't secure the car, it A. gets sold to someone else(who probably doesn't deserve it, or B. the sales manager increases the price so he can cover what it cost to fix and also cause now he is super confident he's got a smooth running car.
By the way, that stuttering sounds like it could be the ignition coils. I've had problems with mine multiple times. Thank goodness thats the only problem I've had with my max. good luck
I sold nissans for three years and have seen every type of deal contingent upon the dealership fixing the problem tht you could possibly see. I also drive a '99 max 5 sp. First off, if the price is right, secure the car for your purchase by signing a "due bill". You can write in the terms of the deal on the due bill or agree with a sales manager if they have written the new deal. Most due bill can give you a buffer, like they'll say "will purchase for x amount of dollars contingent upon the clutch being repaired; up to $700. the dealership will want to protect itself so they will go to the service manager, find out exactly how much it will cost to fix, find cheaper parts if possible, and write it into your sales agreement. Just get it in writing and you'll be fine. If you really want the car then go make a deal with them so it is officially "off-the-market". Once getting the car fixed is in writing, the dealership will not f__k you. But I have seen in so many cases that if you don't secure the car, it A. gets sold to someone else(who probably doesn't deserve it, or B. the sales manager increases the price so he can cover what it cost to fix and also cause now he is super confident he's got a smooth running car.
By the way, that stuttering sounds like it could be the ignition coils. I've had problems with mine multiple times. Thank goodness thats the only problem I've had with my max. good luck
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