Man I was driving my car the other day it was kind of rainy and when I came to a stoplight it started shuddering and vibrating really bad! Naturally this was quite alarming to me and I tried to assess the situation as well as I could at the time. Well I kept driving it and then the shuddering continued along with the CEL flashing on and off in unison with the shuddering. I went to a club that night and when I came out the car drove fine? Today the check engine light is on again but the shuddering is gone? I am wondering if this might have been caused by water in the gas, or possibly water getting into my POP charger air filter? Like I said it was rainy yesterday and today. It seems like my CEL only comes on after heavy rains. Wonder if there is a loose wire around one of the O2 sensors or something? Any input would be great. Thanx

 

does the shuddering occur when braking? That would be caused by warped rotors (brakes).

 

It's something else... the way he described it to me, the motor itself is hesitant and rpm's sound like they are dropping. He's got a cel that he needs to pull, so it'll help when he gets that. He may need his tb and iac valve cleaned out... although he does have a 99 maxima, with relatively few miles.

 

Pull the codes from the ECU. You have a ignition coil thats going bad.

 

Its deffinately engine related, and I am going to pull the code tonight to try to get to the bottom of this! I sure hope its not an ignition coil! That would probably cost a boat load. Could using ngk copper plugs be causeing any problems? Just a thought...

 

Unfortunately it will probably be one of your ignition coils. I have a '99 GXE and its doing the same thing. It started out as a 0605 and I switched coils to see if the problem went with the coil and now I am getting 0603. Definitely coil related. $75.38 at local dealership. My baby is sick.

 

Ok check it, my car is getting worse! I just want to list all the mods I have and maybe you all can help me get to the bottom of this little debacle. My car is a 99 GXE, I have JWT POP charger, a Frankencar midpipe, ngk copper plugs, and thats it for engine mods. I checked the codes the other day and they were 0510 and 0201 the downstream o2 sensor max voltage monitor fault and the ignition signal primary circuit fault respectively. So I reset the ECU and the car ran like new again for a day. The next day the CEL came back on and the car proceeded to hesitate on accelleration, stumble on idle, and shudder really bad acting like it was going to stall out or something? Any way I am highly concerned and I would like to try to figure this thing out myself before I take it to a shop to have them rape me money wise. Another thing I did tonight was remove each of the coils individually to see if there was a spark arcing off of them and sure enough each one had a nice little sparking arc. So that might rule out the ignition issue, but would a bad o2 sensor cause the car to stumble and act like its going to stall out? I would really appreciate some help on this. This car has been nothing but trouble ever since I bought it, with the CEL comming on constantly I really dont understand why I am having these problems on a 99 Max, but it may be because of the sparkplugs? Not sure. Thanx for the input.

 

Think I may have figured out my problem. I have the BKR6E-11 copper plugs in my car right now and I am supposed to have the BKR5E-11 copper plugs. Any way it is extermely cold here right now which could explain this mal behavior? I am going to replace the plugs with the one step hotter coppers BKR5E-11 and see if it makes any difference. If not Im going back to stock platinums.

 

I'm just going to get the stock platinums...why waste time and money on coppers when platinums will last longer?

 

in the end, it turns out being cheaper to get coppers, just that u have to do more replacing.. P.S. If Joseph's car runs alright on the normal heat range coppers, I have 6 ngk plat's up for sale Jeff if you want em.

 

Paid 9000. for 99 gxe on 12/31/02 w/51000 mi thought it was cheap and 2 days later I had the same shudder/missing problem you had. Have since replaced the plugs w new plats and had a mech profesionally clean injectors. Had a 02 01 code he reset and the day after I got it back, repeated the shudder and reset the code, but that was 1 week ago and i haven't had a problem in that week. reading the plugs the mechanic said 2 front cylinders were misfiring. Probably the coils going bad will order them next week my cost 50 ea from Napa ( I work for them). O2 sensors due to gas from misfire will disappear when ig is normal for awhile or at least my O2 codes have disappeared. Hope this helps. Hud

 

Well i was wondering if you have figured out what the heck happened to your car? Well i have a 95 GLE, car ran fine until the starter went bad, so my uncle replaced the statrer and at the same time changed the fuel filter and spark plugs. Bouch 4+ platinums. I am still having the shuddering problems and its getting worse. The funny thing is that when the car is cold, i mean 1 minute after starting, the car drives better and the shudder is gone as soon as i drive it for 10 mins its back. It shudders when i am driving usually at around 1400 RMP then sometimes it will fire and the car will go. If i am parked in neutral or in park, car idiles fine, as soon as i put it in drive or reverse it starts thuding. I took it in and they say my knock sensor and both o2's failed, however, i got a fuel induction clean thinking it would fix the problem, guess what NOPE. but they reset the ECU and cleared the codes. now the check engine light is gone, meaning my o2's are fine. cuase if they were bad the engine light should stay on. However the knock sensor will not sned off the check light. The knock sensor detects knock or ping in the engine during heavy detonation and thus retards the it by passing voltage to the PCM to retared timing during heavy detonation. Do you think this may cuase a problem like all of us are having??? All i know is my car is messed up and acclerates like crap. ANY HELP please!!!

Thanks \

Josh

 

Guess this thread is going to go on for awhile seeing as alot of people are having the same problem as I am! Swapep out the plugs today. I reset the cel and drove to Denton about 45 mins away from dallas. On the way back the car started shuddering again but the CEL hasn't come on yet. Cars going in the shop on Monday to get to the bottom of this!
Damn it...

 

sounds like my accord, when the motor mounts went out(yes all of them). it felt like the front would shake a little...kinda like what people do when they are cold.

 

joseph since it's not the plugs, go pickup a front bank coil pack and a rear, one of your coil packs is dying it seems.

Just do the test like I told you before, but use the new coil pack and swap each one out. .. Give me a call if you need help, i get off work after 4 2morrow.

 

I am golden. Got the new coil and problem is gone. I didn't want to post again until I knew problem was gone. Best $75 I've spent in a while. BTW, I did have all of the systems everyone else was having. Rough acceleration, rough idle, CEL constantly on or flashing when accelerating hard. All gone. My baby is well again!!

 

Queens Nissan couldn't figure it out, I blasted both service managers for having the car in their service bay, repeatedly over 10 months for the shuddering idle, hesitation, jumping.

That's usually not the service I get from Bob and Russ. I guess some tech was sleeping on those days I brought it in.

It got really bad on the highway to the point where the engine was stuttering under acceleration.

I just pulled the codes myself, took it in and demanded they check the coil packs. Turned it out was #5 just as the code said. Came up to a $252 repair, I had WarrantyDirect pay for it/zero deductible. WD covered about 90% of the bill, which wasn't bad, I ended up having to pay $58 for a "base idle adjustment", after the coil was replaced. I didn't care, it wasn't that much, I just wanted it fixed, and it was better than paying close to $300 out of my pocket. Plus its covered for one full year in case it happens again.


Nissan Service Invoice - Coil Pack Repair

 

hey had computer problems and haven't been here for awhile, but i talked to the local dealer and he said coils might be under warranty. he said 90% chance my problem is with the 2 coils on the cylinders that showed misfiring symptoms when i changed the plugs out. got another present from nissan, a new key costs 40. and reprogramming costs 37.50; didn't cross my mind when the dealer gave me only 1 key.
still like the car even with problems, man is supposed to be a problem solving beast anyhow. hud

 

Looks like I have bad coils too. I am about to buy them from http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com for:
Left $55.23 and Right $57.89 HANSHIN brand, since that's the brand I have on right now. Has anyone paid less? Are these coils failing no matter what brand they are? The Mitsubishi ones are just a few more dollars. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Nelson

 

I haven't found them any cheaper-- new. At least you didn't pay the dealer price. Man do I feel ripped. I should have checked around a little more. At least my Baby is back up to max power.

 

there are a million threads on this subject, and one of them said the hanshin were the better ones. great price i work for napa and my wholesale price is only slightly lower. hud