So it wasn't my coil packs..
#1
So it wasn't my coil packs..
I searched and tried the method of pulling each coil plugs out one by one to see if there is no shuddering. I got shuddering for every coil I pulled out. I'm assuming that means all my coils are functional. The reason I did that is because I get a lot of hesitation and RPM drops when I'm merging on to a high way. When I am accelerating it won't go much faster. It hits around 3K then it drops. Any ideas on what is wrong? I cleaned the MAF sensor a week ago. To see if that would help, it did not. No CEL on currently or when I scanned my ECU. I'm thinking it could be a faulty MAF, but I could be wrong.
#3
#6
#8
+1 on replacing maf/checking maf.
Mine acted up and no codes were popping up. The only code I ever got was a IAT sensor but after the maf was swapped out it behaves perfectly.
Also, clean TB thoroughly with a tooth brush. MAF cleaner does very little in my opinion though
Mine acted up and no codes were popping up. The only code I ever got was a IAT sensor but after the maf was swapped out it behaves perfectly.
Also, clean TB thoroughly with a tooth brush. MAF cleaner does very little in my opinion though
#12
#13
Cleaned out the throttle body the other day. Man was it dirty, The inside was caked up inside with so much dirt/debris. It helped with my problem a little bit. But the sluggish acceleration is still there. I've been scanning my ECU and hoping for something to pop up to give me an idea.
#14
OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...
#15
I would love to have a copy of the layout they used... if possible to siath@live.com
OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...
OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...
Hey I'll send you the excel file when I get home from the office. But I have not found a solution. Cleaning the TB did make a difference in acceleration though.
#17
#19
#20
Never hrd of this .... . I guess the point is to hold the coil together with tape to determine which is broken ???
Mistertones,
It sound like u got a slipping clutch. If the RPMs jump high when u switch gears then finally catch, then clutch is worn.
#21
I suggest fuel filter and seafoam in the brake booster line in addition to the coilpack voltage test and MAF test.
Here is my file if you want it:
http://www.ilyakol.com/Maxima/Maxima%20Maintenance.xls
I would love to have a copy of the layout they used... if possible to siath@live.com
OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...
OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...
http://www.ilyakol.com/Maxima/Maxima%20Maintenance.xls
#22
That is what I feared. A slipping clutch . Do you know the typical cost to replace a clutch? I've googled around people say it could cost from 400-2800.
#24
It means top it up. If it ain't leaking, you got a worn friction disk. Changing the clutch is something you can do yourself. The hardest part is convincing yourself that you can do it.
#29
So I finally got the car back today. MAN it is a big difference with the clutch. The car goes so much faster. No more lag or anything. So changing the knock sensor, cleaning the TB, cleaning the MAF, running injector cleaners made the car feel faster then when I got it a year ago. But questions, the clutch engages a lot high then before, is that normal? Also my clutch pedal isn't as still as before, is that normal as well for a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel?
#30
its normal for a stiffer clutch, wait till you do a SS clutch line. when i depress mine i can feel the engine fighting the clutch. and its normal for the pedal to be harder to push, the pedal is probably engaging higher because you had air in the clutch line they bled out.
#31
its normal for a stiffer clutch, wait till you do a SS clutch line. when i depress mine i can feel the engine fighting the clutch. and its normal for the pedal to be harder to push, the pedal is probably engaging higher because you had air in the clutch line they bled out.
#32
im not positive, the only non oem clutch ive driven on was in my friends spec 4 clutch integ. pressing it down was like trying to smash a can.
you can try bleeding it but i would think it should be harder to push.
you can try bleeding it but i would think it should be harder to push.
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