New engine noise
Hi Njmaxselt,
That's the "bucket and shim" design? Could you refer me to the (Internet) source(s) to learn more about it? I dont' recall my Hynes manual has a great deal of a description about Max' motor differences.
Thanks,
Eugene
That's the "bucket and shim" design? Could you refer me to the (Internet) source(s) to learn more about it? I dont' recall my Hynes manual has a great deal of a description about Max' motor differences.
Thanks,
Eugene
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I don't know of any internet sources to explain this setup. I'm sure if you do a search you'll find it thou. Are you sure the Haynes manual doesn't explain it or at least show a picture? See if you can find a valve adjustment procedure. If the manual does describe how this is done, pictures of that setup will be there as well.
Buck and Shim setups usually don't require any maintenance over the life of the engine. It's a very durable design. The valve lash is set via a shim. The shim sits in sort of a bucket. You can measure the valve clearance to see if it's within spec. Changing it requires you to remove the shim. A special tool is required to hold the bucket/valve down or open while the cam lobe is off the shim. Then usually a magnet is used to grab the shim out of the bucket. The shims are marked with sizes. A shim table is used to select the correct size shim based on your measurements and what shim value you pull out.
My Yamaha engine has this design also. I've checked and adjusted the valves on that puppy a few times. (I baught the tool from Yamaha) It takes a good part of the day to pull it apart and map out your measurements. Then if needed, a trip to the dealer to get the shims you need.
The VQ really doesn't require valve adjustments so it may be tough to find that procedure. Look in the eigine rebuilding section, perhaps you'll find it there.
I don't think thats the source of your ticking noise, but ya never know.
Buck and Shim setups usually don't require any maintenance over the life of the engine. It's a very durable design. The valve lash is set via a shim. The shim sits in sort of a bucket. You can measure the valve clearance to see if it's within spec. Changing it requires you to remove the shim. A special tool is required to hold the bucket/valve down or open while the cam lobe is off the shim. Then usually a magnet is used to grab the shim out of the bucket. The shims are marked with sizes. A shim table is used to select the correct size shim based on your measurements and what shim value you pull out.
My Yamaha engine has this design also. I've checked and adjusted the valves on that puppy a few times. (I baught the tool from Yamaha) It takes a good part of the day to pull it apart and map out your measurements. Then if needed, a trip to the dealer to get the shims you need.
The VQ really doesn't require valve adjustments so it may be tough to find that procedure. Look in the eigine rebuilding section, perhaps you'll find it there.
I don't think thats the source of your ticking noise, but ya never know.
does this happen right after you turn the engine on or off or does it happen while it runs? If it is the latter then it could be your fuel injectors maybe one is going bad or dirty and the frequency of the ticking is more shorter. If it is the first scenario then it is the aluminum contracting or expanding
I believe the VQs use hydraulic lifters(thus no valve adjustments) But I30, I too had a loud tick noises for awhile. CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSUE AND OIL LEVEL ASAP! I happened to run my engine low on oil, caused the loud tick, that turned into a loud clack and then seized the motor. I turned out that I probably threw a rod end or crankshaft end cap against the oil pan and seized the engine.
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ballerchris510
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Sep 11, 2015 05:29 PM




