92K miles and my brake fluid is still light yellow. Should I bother changing it?
#1
92K miles and my brake fluid is still light yellow. Should I bother changing it?
I've owned my 96SE since early 99 when it had 30K miles. Now it's 7 years old and has 92K miles. I'm constantly reading about guys changing out their brake fluid every 30k miles or so. I know that since I've owned the car, the fluid has never been changed. The color is still a light yellow and I've never had mushy brakes. According to all the books I've read and Nissan specs, they only recommend changing the brake fluid if air, moisture, or dirt has gotten in the system. I don't auto-x and I'm pretty easy on brakes. What shall I do
Dave
Dave
#2
For me, even if the brake fluid is good in color, I cant sleep if I dont change them out. When you put in new fluid its almost as clear as water, so that makes me feel goood because I know I can go 60k miles at least with the new fluids.
#3
For me, it's so easy to change, I'd do it as a matter of course. I think it's one of those things that is very neglected on American cars.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....essure+bleeder
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....essure+bleeder
#5
How would it absorb moisture if the cap has only opened 3 times since I've had the car? It looks to me like the cap is air tight.
The only thing brake fluid does is get compressed which generates heat obviously. I know the fluid can get overheated, but doesn't overworked fluid usually have a much darker tint to it with sometimes a burnt odor?
I removed a small amount of fluid a little while ago and it's nearly clear (looks more yellow when in the reservoir).
The only time I could get my brake to slightly fade (very margin) was when I did a 40-0, 50-0, and a 60-0 stop within seconds of each other. Otherwise the brakes have been perfect.
I'm not trying to argue with you guys, I'm just trying to get legimate answers on why I should change the fluid. Like on most car sites, people recommend changing a lot of things that don't necessarily need changing. I've got a Mity-Vac so changing the fluid should be relatively easy. I just don't want to start doing the job and notice that the fluid I'm pulling out is no different in color than the fluid I'm putting in.
Dave
The only thing brake fluid does is get compressed which generates heat obviously. I know the fluid can get overheated, but doesn't overworked fluid usually have a much darker tint to it with sometimes a burnt odor?
I removed a small amount of fluid a little while ago and it's nearly clear (looks more yellow when in the reservoir).
The only time I could get my brake to slightly fade (very margin) was when I did a 40-0, 50-0, and a 60-0 stop within seconds of each other. Otherwise the brakes have been perfect.
I'm not trying to argue with you guys, I'm just trying to get legimate answers on why I should change the fluid. Like on most car sites, people recommend changing a lot of things that don't necessarily need changing. I've got a Mity-Vac so changing the fluid should be relatively easy. I just don't want to start doing the job and notice that the fluid I'm pulling out is no different in color than the fluid I'm putting in.
Dave
#6
Dave, brake fluid is moisture absorbing by nature. It WILL absorb fluid over time. Why do you think manufacturers say not to use brake fluid in containers that have been opened and sitting for a length of time?? Because not matter what, it will absorb fluid and greatly lowers the boiling point. You take good care of your car Dave, don't stop at the brake fluid. Just replace it as a matter of course(sorta like engine oil).
Unless you can take a sample and send to a lab, just assume the fluid has lost enough of it's boiling point resistance to warrant a fluid change.
Unless you can take a sample and send to a lab, just assume the fluid has lost enough of it's boiling point resistance to warrant a fluid change.
#8
Use my method and you don't even touch the brake pedal. hehe
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
Make sure you know how to properly flush the brake fluid. If you are going to do the manual method, make sure you don't pump the brake peddle down more than 3"-4".
Make sure you know how to properly flush the brake fluid. If you are going to do the manual method, make sure you don't pump the brake peddle down more than 3"-4".
#9
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
Make sure you know how to properly flush the brake fluid. If you are going to do the manual method, make sure you don't pump the brake peddle down more than 3"-4".
Make sure you know how to properly flush the brake fluid. If you are going to do the manual method, make sure you don't pump the brake peddle down more than 3"-4".
#10
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
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Join Date: Aug 2000
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The piston in the master cylinder normally doesn't extend that far. You had been driving your car for 92K miles and you never had to press your brake peddle further than 3" to stop the car. If your car is old, there will be rust/contaminations beyond 3" in the master cylinder wall. Rubber seals rubbing againest bad surface = busted seals in the master cylinder. Now, you need to go out and buy a new master cylinder.
Originally posted by hokiemax
Why is that? 3 to 4 inches? I pressed mine all the way down.
Why is that? 3 to 4 inches? I pressed mine all the way down.
#12
Ah..okay.... I don't think the mechanicly inclined people around here really look at your statement as some type of lifetime achievement award. More like an accident waiting to happen.
Originally posted by dmplus
205,xxx miles on my 95gle and never changed the brake fluid. Not sure why you would want to do it every 30k.
205,xxx miles on my 95gle and never changed the brake fluid. Not sure why you would want to do it every 30k.
#13
If your brakes dont feel mushy, then dont change it. Water will be absorbed by your fluid over time, but if you dont have mushy brakes or fade, you should be fine. Now if you plan on tracking the car, H20 will effect the boiling point and induce fade earlier.
#14
i changed my brake fluid last weekend even though the fluid in the reservior looked clean, but when i flush the fluid it came out dark brown. i would change it, just get a friend to pump the brake peddle and you would open and close the brake bleeder valve to let the old fluid out, make sure you don't let the fluid level in the reservior fall below min. mark, if you can change tires you can bleed the brakes. you would be glad after you did it.
#16
Sorry but the fluid should be changed regularly. If you admit that water WILL be absorbed, it will in turn affect the boiling point. Which will affect braking and brake component life. Really not debatable. It's a plain fact. It's like saying as long as your engine doesn't overheat, there's no need to change the coolant.
Originally posted by MAX2000JP
If your brakes dont feel mushy, then dont change it. Water will be absorbed by your fluid over time, but if you dont have mushy brakes or fade, you should be fine. Now if you plan on tracking the car, H20 will effect the boiling point and induce fade earlier.
If your brakes dont feel mushy, then dont change it. Water will be absorbed by your fluid over time, but if you dont have mushy brakes or fade, you should be fine. Now if you plan on tracking the car, H20 will effect the boiling point and induce fade earlier.
#18
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Sorry but the fluid should be changed regularly. If you admit that water WILL be absorbed, it will in turn affect the boiling point. Which will affect braking and brake component life. Really not debatable. It's a plain fact. It's like saying as long as your engine doesn't overheat, there's no need to change the coolant.
Sorry but the fluid should be changed regularly. If you admit that water WILL be absorbed, it will in turn affect the boiling point. Which will affect braking and brake component life. Really not debatable. It's a plain fact. It's like saying as long as your engine doesn't overheat, there's no need to change the coolant.
#19
Nope. Read and learn. I mean this is on top of the corrosion danger of having water in your brake lines/calipers for long periods of time.
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Brake_Fluid2.htm
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Brake_Fluid2.htm
Originally posted by MAX2000JP
Actually it is debatable.....I will ask you to go out the the street and try an "boil" your brake fluid, not going to happen unless you have LOTS of H20 in the fluid.
Actually it is debatable.....I will ask you to go out the the street and try an "boil" your brake fluid, not going to happen unless you have LOTS of H20 in the fluid.
#20
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Nope. Read and learn. I mean this is on top of the corrosion danger of having water in your brake lines/calipers for long periods of time.
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Brake_Fluid2.htm
Nope. Read and learn. I mean this is on top of the corrosion danger of having water in your brake lines/calipers for long periods of time.
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Brake_Fluid2.htm
That is a great link!
Thanks for the good info!
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