2maximas

iTrader: (2)

OK,
So I have this friend of mine that has a muffler shop, he put the Budget Y on for me and I left him some info off the org? or maybe VQ power? anyway, I left him the info on how to do it without harming the O2 sensor.(he was insulted of course) "How long you think I've been in this business" he says (not long enough apparently) Well a week after I got it back it quits running....WTF? start looking and the crank sensor is BROKEN! I mean in pieces!!! So I replace that, Then I notice that the O2 sensor wire is twised up like a freaking guitar string! Oh well, I tell myself I'll fix it later.........well now I'm getting a code for that O2 sensor! $hit! can I just unwrap the wires, and maybe it will clear up? I cleared the code once and it's back. I don't want to have to buy an O2 sensor, it says the heater is bad on that sensor, could it be the wires? Any help greatly appreciated (please no wise cracks.....I know I should have stayed with the car...but I left it with him ASSUMING (we all know what happens when you do that) that the would do it right....well I learnt MY lesson!!!)
TIA
2Maximas

99maxi

iTrader: (2)

how much did he charge u to put it on??

2maximas

iTrader: (2)

60 bux, I tried to do it myself but those bolts were so rusted I couldn't budge 'em I have an impact wrench and a compressor, but did not have an extension or a ujoint, and a good impact ujoint and extension would have set me back almost that. but with everything I have to fix..........$hit I should have just bought the tools!!!

ORBRIT

Those 02 sensor wires are zip tied pretty well, so unless you remove the ties and then put them back, the twisting will occur.
To minimize the twisted wires, I twisted mine several turns counter-clockwise before screwing them in, so the wires aren't all twisted up.

99maxi

iTrader: (2)

when i did my y-pipe i took the O2 sensors including the wires out, and drop them back in after the instal

2maximas

iTrader: (2)

So, OK, back to the original problem, what mode does the computer go to if it is not getting the correct signals from the O2 sensor, mine seems to be actually pulling a little harder!?!? I know it can't go to a lean mode (might damage the pistons, valves, etc) so it must be going into a rich condition? Does that mean that my car is NOT running right with the o2 sensor putting out the right voltages? If it runs better with the check engine lamp on because of an O2 sensor being bad? (Actually the code is for the "heater" on that O2 sensor), so I guess it could still be giving the right voltages as far as how much O2 is in the exhaust gasses. I am going to pull it this weekend,(the O2 sensor) try cleaning it up, make sure no wires have the insulation broken anywhere and put it back in and pre twist the wire so it's as straight as I can get it. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter and PCV valve. The other thing I have noticed is on a warm start, after the engine has reached normal temps, sometimes is takes as long as 2 to 4 seconds of constant cranking for it to start, when it does finally start, sometimes, not very often, but on occasion, it will act like it's going to die. Most of the time it fires right up like it is supposed to......it just takes a long time to start?!?! I have changed the plugs with properly gapped NGK Coppers, cleaned the throttle body, just had a new alternator installed (replaced under the recall), cleaned and oiled my K&N, Changed the oil, adjusted the IAC to idle at about 800 in park and 650 in drive, I have NOT changed the fuel filter, (I have one, just have not got to it yet and a new PCV valve too)

OK all you Maxima magicians.......work your magic! If I have to, I'll rip the whole dam thing apart! (not really) I want it to start at the bump of the key as my 96SE does, and idle smooth as glass, and run like a bat outta HE11. Is that too much to ask of the Maxima Gods?
TIA
2maximas