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5spd Conversion - axle question #2

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Old 04-23-2003, 04:26 PM
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Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Ok new question. If I currently have ABS, and I need a driverside axle, is there a difference in a non-lsd and lsd driverside axle? I'm pretty sure there is a difference in ABS or not, but what about the lsd?

-Ben

I dunno - if you start your own thread, more people will see it.

IanS
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:51 PM
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What a day!

First, we stripped a fitting on the clutch lines, and it wouldn't go into the block...eventually, by forcing it, we broke one of the lines.

So we headed down to the autoparts store to get our own lines. The store sold straight piping with flares and fittings that matched perfectly. We took everything out inbetween the master cylinder and slave cyliner, and just made a single line going to the slave cylinder, as all the other stuff seems pretty useless, and we know people have done that before without problems anyway.

Well, we got all that together and must have pumped the clutch 500 times at least...we pushed in, opened the bleeder, then closed it, then pulled the clutch out, then back in, then open, etc, etc...just like the Chilton's manual says. (at all times going to a submerged bottle with brake fluid in all cases, of course)

We took the master cylinder out of the car and pumped it manually, using our finger to hold suction when pulling out, and when we pushed in it shot fluid across the room....I don't get why it won't work in the car!!

I even tried just testing with the clutch lines and master cylinder attached, opening and closing by pinching the hose....making sure the slave cynlinder or rubber hosing wasn't the problem...and air bubbles come out of the line, but no fluid is being fed from the master cylinder...

Then, while working on all this, I noticed that the driver's side axle was leaking severely...a stream of gear oil coming out of it. I took the axle out and looked at the oil seal and axle, and both look fine...WTF? I haven't even moved the car yet!!!

Needless to say - things were worse today when we left than when we got there.

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Old 04-24-2003, 09:35 PM
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Originally posted by iansw
What a day!

First, we stripped a fitting on the clutch lines, and it wouldn't go into the block...eventually, by forcing it, we broke one of the lines.

So we headed down to the autoparts store to get our own lines. The store sold straight piping with flares and fittings that matched perfectly. We took everything out inbetween the master cylinder and slave cyliner, and just made a single line going to the slave cylinder, as all the other stuff seems pretty useless, and we know people have done that before without problems anyway.

Well, we got all that together and must have pumped the clutch 500 times at least...we pushed in, opened the bleeder, then closed it, then pulled the clutch out, then back in, then open, etc, etc...just like the Chilton's manual says. (at all times going to a submerged bottle with brake fluid in all cases, of course)

We took the master cylinder out of the car and pumped it manually, using our finger to hold suction when pulling out, and when we pushed in it shot fluid across the room....I don't get why it won't work in the car!!

I even tried just testing with the clutch lines and master cylinder attached, opening and closing by pinching the hose....making sure the slave cynlinder or rubber hosing wasn't the problem...and air bubbles come out of the line, but no fluid is being fed from the master cylinder...

Then, while working on all this, I noticed that the driver's side axle was leaking severely...a stream of gear oil coming out of it. I took the axle out and looked at the oil seal and axle, and both look fine...WTF? I haven't even moved the car yet!!!

Needless to say - things were worse today when we left than when we got there.

Its alot easier if you simply pour in fluid through the top bleeder as much as possible. just unscrew that bleeder completely and put fluid into the little block. keep the bottom one open and fill it until its leaking. that will save you aloooot of time. by doing this, it took me maybe 10 more minutes to bleed the whole system. i did think for a while that my master cylinder was shot, but it was fine. try bleeding using the slave cylinder as well, it might help. open the valve, pump it, close it, let it retract, repeat. i think its better if you bleed the top valve first, since you get the air out of the highest point that is compressing and killing the pressure in the system. also, when you pull the clutch pedal out, make sure you do it slowly, for some reason that works better.
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Old 04-24-2003, 09:50 PM
  #84  
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Originally posted by skeelo34


Its alot easier if you simply pour in fluid through the top bleeder as much as possible. just unscrew that bleeder completely and put fluid into the little block. keep the bottom one open and fill it until its leaking. that will save you aloooot of time. by doing this, it took me maybe 10 more minutes to bleed the whole system. i did think for a while that my master cylinder was shot, but it was fine. try bleeding using the slave cylinder as well, it might help. open the valve, pump it, close it, let it retract, repeat. i think its better if you bleed the top valve first, since you get the air out of the highest point that is compressing and killing the pressure in the system. also, when you pull the clutch pedal out, make sure you do it slowly, for some reason that works better.
Thanks skeelo, but I don't have te top bleeder anymore...we took it out.

(read above)

I'll try the slowly thing.
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Old 04-24-2003, 09:54 PM
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Originally posted by skeelo34


Its alot easier if you simply pour in fluid through the top bleeder as much as possible. just unscrew that bleeder completely and put fluid into the little block. keep the bottom one open and fill it until its leaking. that will save you aloooot of time. by doing this, it took me maybe 10 more minutes to bleed the whole system. i did think for a while that my master cylinder was shot, but it was fine. try bleeding using the slave cylinder as well, it might help. open the valve, pump it, close it, let it retract, repeat. i think its better if you bleed the top valve first, since you get the air out of the highest point that is compressing and killing the pressure in the system. also, when you pull the clutch pedal out, make sure you do it slowly, for some reason that works better.
Problem with that is the car doesn't have the top bleeder. Its running a line straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder with the custom pipe ian got. Basically we eliminated all that extra piping because with all the stuff he has in there now, it would be a PITA to get in. Either way thanks for the advice though.

S
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Old 04-24-2003, 10:13 PM
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Originally posted by maximase86


Problem with that is the car doesn't have the top bleeder. Its running a line straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder with the custom pipe ian got. Basically we eliminated all that extra piping because with all the stuff he has in there now, it would be a PITA to get in. Either way thanks for the advice though.

S
i suggest you somehow disconnect that piping, fill it up with the fluid and try to reconnect it without losing too much of the fluid. that should save some work. good luck. do try pumping the slave cylinder instead of the pedal also, that may work better.
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Old 04-25-2003, 05:25 AM
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Originally posted by iansw
What a day!


We took the master cylinder out of the car and pumped it manually, using our finger to hold suction when pulling out, and when we pushed in it shot fluid across the room....I don't get why it won't work in the car!!

I even tried just testing with the clutch lines and master cylinder attached, opening and closing by pinching the hose....making sure the slave cynlinder or rubber hosing wasn't the problem...and air bubbles come out of the line, but no fluid is being fed from the master cylinder...
Make sure that the adjustment rod that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder is adjusted properly. By the way, when you installed the master cylinder and clutch pedal did you use a spacer between the firewall and the clutch pedal bracket? The stock spacer is on the order of .62" thick or thereabouts.



Then, while working on all this, I noticed that the driver's side axle was leaking severely...a stream of gear oil coming out of it. I took the axle out and looked at the oil seal and axle, and both look fine...WTF? I haven't even moved the car yet!!!
Weird. You're not pumping clutch fluid into the transmission, are you? Maybe you just overfilled the transmission.
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Old 04-25-2003, 07:36 AM
  #88  
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Originally posted by Stephen Max


Make sure that the adjustment rod that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder is adjusted properly. By the way, when you installed the master cylinder and clutch pedal did you use a spacer between the firewall and the clutch pedal bracket? The stock spacer is on the order of .62" thick or thereabouts.




Weird. You're not pumping clutch fluid into the transmission, are you? Maybe you just overfilled the transmission.
I believe the spacer is there. As for clutch fluid going into the tranny, I don't see how that would be possible since there isn't anything physically going into the tranny itself. I know the throw out rod goes into the bell housing, but that section is seperated from the tranny. :P Also to note, we kepted an eye on the master clutch cylinder, the level really didn't change much.

S
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Old 04-25-2003, 08:22 PM
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the spacer shouldnt be a problem. my car doesnt have one, and when i converted meccanobles old car, i did nto put a spacer in it. things seemed to work fine, and still do for me.
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