got done with mine. I soldered a wire to the maf by splicing the insulation then soldered it. I grounded it on a terminal ring on the same place where I have my airhorns grounded to which is to the upper strut where the auto drop resistor is located. I dont think I felt anything which is what I was expecting since I dont believe I have any problems to begin with

 

if i can get use of a digital camera tomorrow night i will take a pic for everyone....6 days now and still no hesitation so im happy

 

 

I did it. It works

NO PICS !

 

didn't do it yet cause it starte rinin and i got lazy.

thanks for postin about this, im gona check for codes before i do this .

 

I just drove around with it. Umm, I won't say if it works or not. My butt dyno may need to be recalibrated. But I'm leaning towards it working.

 

I'm making chicken wings for dinner.

 

 

Mine feels ohk...

 

i dont have a check engine light and i dont see why this would set off the knock sensor code....all i know is my car runs and feels better than it has in years

 

I didnt have a light, I just checked for the heck of it. Knock sensors dont trip the ECU, unless theres another code with it.

 

i know ive already replaced mine but it i checked the ecu after i did the wire and its not on so you must have had this problem coming. mine went around 70k miles

 

Well I checked the other day my ECU (maybe liek 2 days or so) and all I had was the rear heated o2 sensor, but I reset that and it hasnt come back. Ill check it out tomorrow. I also replaced my Knock Sensor =/ Maybe the wire is loose or not on correctly, cause I still get jerking at idling (sluggish, loss of power and horrible gas mileage) or maybe injectors, who knows. =(

 

You guys really should have checked your MAFs with a voltmeter to confirm if your MAF had a grounding problem. Mine apparently did and after driving for nearly three days, I'm happy to report my car lacks the slight hestitation it use to have from 2000-3000rpms. Overall the car just drives better. Faster? That's hard to gauge because even if this thing added 5hp, you wouldn't really feel it. Btw, I don't think it adds much if any power. This is a driveability mod.


Dave

 

lets think about this:
there are two reasons that your MAFs resistance is too high -- your maf is aging, but that doesnt make the ground bad. Or, your grounding system in the car is inadequate. This fix seems like a bandaid fix, but chances are that the MAF grounds to the same point as many other things. Dont you guys think we would be better suited to find the ground point and clean up the metal contact or put in larger wires? Making another ground point is not always a good thing, ground loops can cause lots of interference for example. Does anyone know where the stock MAF ground is?

 

i have a pic but i have no place to upload it to

 

if you turned your aim on i could upload it for you...

 

You're right, this won't add any power, but will hopefully restore what could be lost if the MAF ground reference voltage has increased over time. The throttle response just feels a bit smoother when it's right. In the SR20DE, it gave a more rev-happy feeling.

Miasma - The black ground wire returns direct to the ECU, giving a ground reference in relation to the white MAF signal wire. There is no MAF ground point other than through the ECU according to my Haynes diagrams. This mod ties the MAF (and ECU) electronic ground directly to chassis ground, which really should be the same to avoid ground loops. If the MAF ground wire isn't at true ground, then the ECU will read the MAF signal a little too low. The OEM signal wires are about 22 gauge, which does have cumulative resistance over the 10 feet or so that grounds the MAF back to the ECU. This mod grounds the MAF with a short, larger cable. The ECU does have grounding wires in its ribbon cable, but I don't know where they attach - probably under the dash somewhere.

 

interesting stuff.

this mod couldnt hurt anything, I am just wondering if providing the entire ECU a better ground would help at all... also all sensors can benifit from a more stable ground... could be an interesting project, like ooglie-hypergrounds to the nth power!

 

wat size gauge wire did everyone use to make this extra ground wire for the maf?

 

4 gauge...........




j/k 16 gauge

 

screw wimpy 4awg, try 4/0awg!

 

hahahhha

 

Good post! FYI...I checked the shop manual last night and it has a very detailed section on how to check all the MAF lead voltages.

One part of the writeup recommends removing and cleaning the wiring harness ground that are located in the front middle of the top of the engine near the injectors. There are two grounds within about an inch of each other.

The manual also mentions being able to test the ground lead by checking voltage between pin 55 (MAF ground lead you mention) and pin 25 (computer ground). The recommended mv reading is "0".

I cleaned up the harness grounding leads last night and the idle and low end has improved greatly! Will check the pin voltages tonight to see if I need to do your mod!

 

http://jamsan.homestead.com/files/maf.jpg

ahh screw it i suck at html here is the link

 

yes, you do suck

 

im telling you it wasnt working for me

 

I can't really tell, but did you ADD a ground wire, or did you just cut the wire and re-ground it to another location?

 

It's been 4 solid days of driving and I'm happy to report ALL my car's "hiccups" and bumpiness in the powerband during part throttle acceleration are all gone. I'm very happy with the improved driveability.


Dave

 

i will try this tomorrow, but it really makes me think that the MAF is not all that can benifit from better grounding.

 

if you look you can tell i just spliced into the current ground wire and added another one

 

-Grounding is always the most important electrical contact.
-But in the case of the MAF, it is critical, because the sensor is a variable resistor, and a slightly corroded ground will have major impact because the ECU will interperate the bad ground (change in resistance) as a specific signal. Other grounds are often used as 'on/off' signal point, therefore having a functioning or fully non-functioning (sometimes intermitent, caused by bumbs, etc.) symptom.
-I think when the weather warms (monday), I'll be testing mine, just as a precaution.

 

so basically all it is... u just splice into the existing ground wire to the maf sensor...adding another ground wire... while still keeping the original ground wire intact... which makes 2 ground wires for the maf.... correct?

 

how bout if you just clean the spot where the ground wire for the maf is connected to
will it still have the same effect, should get better charge if you just clear the area of the original ground wire instead of making two , one with a better ground and the original one?

 

YUP

 

It works like a charm.
This is the best mod ever.

 

I thought I'd bring this post back from the dead. Last night while looking under my hood, I noticed some exposed bare wires underneath some of the electrical tape I used to cover the wire tap of the extra grounding to the MAF. I pulled the tape off and to my surprise, the soldered extra ground wire fell off and my main MAF ground only had about 50% of the wire strands still connected. I removed the extra ground and fixed the main ground wire.

So pretty much while trying to make my MAF have a better ground, I actually made things far worse


Dave