I seem to be having problems with my car in the cold. First, my car freezes over night. Its covered in a sheet of ice. But I guess that would happen to everycar. Second, my windows freeze shut. This could happen to other cars, but never happened on my 98 carolla. Next, starting problems. If i don't drive it for one day, the next time I try to start it, the engine will kinda sound sluggish and almost not turn over and start up. Another problem is that my trunk freezes shut as well. I can't open it most of the time in the morning. I live in northern NJ, so its not that cold out, and the other cars at my house seem fine. 92 Voyager, and 99 camery, never have these problems before. Is there anyway I can prevent all these cold problems?

 

A car cover and engine block heater, but you really don't need an engine block heater in NJ. Its been humid outside lately even though it is cold because of all of the melting snow. My car has been doing hte icing thing too. Just let the car sit for a few minutes before you drive it. Get a remote starter.

 

I live in NY, and I don't have the problem with the engine, but I do have the problem with the frozen window (annoying) and here is something else I noticed. I am not sure any of you guys have it--but the belts are squeaky when I first turn on the car. I am assuming that is from the humidity from the snow...

and yes, a lot of the times, the trunk is frozen and does require a bit of wrangling--if I need to open the trunk...

 

like the guy said, get a remote starter, its worth the investment. start the darn car, go out like 5-7mins later and things should be a lot better. now if only i could use the starter at school!!!!!

 

I get that squeeky sound from the belts too!!!! Gotta get that remote starter!

 

I live in NYC and I have similar problems. I found a good trick to prevent the windows from sticking. First, wash all of the door and window gaskets and dry with a towel. Then spray some silicon onto a rag and wipe all gasket surfaces. Spray the silicon into the window channels. You can buy spray silicon at Home Depot, etc. This stuff not only keeps the seals soft but also acts as a water repelant so the don't freeze over. As far as hard starting, if you look back at previous posts, the coolant temperature sensor seems to fail on this gen max causing hard starting. If you turn the key to "on" position and wait, the fuel rail will pressurize and then start the car after 15 seconds. I have been doing this all winter and no more problems. In the spring I plan to replace this piece.

 

Jason--

what brand of silicon spray do you use for your car? you have noticed that the windows go up and down faster with the spray? It would be great if you can share with us what brand you are using. The reason that I am asking is that I have used the "gunk" silicon spray brand and for some reason, it makes my windows go up and down even slower--so I stopped using it.

If you can share with us what you are using--that would be excellent.

thank you---

Brian

 

Whoa! There is some confusion here.

A loss of residual fuel pressure can cause hard starting. The 15-second delay procedure helps because it gives the fuel pump extra time to build pressure.

A bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor can cause hard starting, especially with a cold engine. The 15-second delay will not help at all.

The test for a loss of residual fuel pressure is a fuel pressure test. Instructions for this test are in Chilton (page 5-3) or Haynes (page 4-3).

The test for a bad ECTS is an electrical resistance test. Instructions for this test are in Chilton (page 4-15) or Haynes (page 6-11).

 

Have you been getting it just lately or for a good period of time?
if it is just recently--it could just be because of the moisture--when those belts are wet...they do make those noise...and after they have dried up for a bit--they usually quiet down a bit.

The noise is annoying, however...

 

This is a long shot but you could get in the car turn ignition to on but do not try to start. Hold it there for about five seconds and remove key. Wait about five seconds and insert key, go to on but do not start and hold for about five seconds. Remove key again for about five seconds, reinsert key, turn to on for about five and then try to start the car. If this works/helps then it sounds like you are losing fuel/fuel pressure. If not than pull a check engine code and see what you get. Every time you attempt to start car the fuel pump primes the system so doing this about three times in a row before starting may actually help you out.

 

I don't know the brand of silicon I used. I'll check when I go home tonight. I do know I bought it at Home Depot and they only had one choice, pretty simple.

Daniel, sorry for the confusion. I thought that was the procedure for a bad temp sensor. Maybe I have a different problem. But when I read previous posts about this problem everyone kept saying to turn the key to "on" and wait. It was my understanding that the temp sensor controlled air/fuel ratio and by allowing the rail to pressurize more fuel would be available to start the engine. If this is wrong, please explain.

 

Our 4Gen VQ30DE engine fuel injected engine has an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. This sensor sends a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer). When the ECTS sends a "cold engine" signal the ECM responds by instructing the fuel injectors to deliver a rich mixture. This is similar to the operation of the choke on a carbureted engine.

The ECTS does not influence fuel pressure. Fuel pressure is controlled by the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The FPR responds to a vacuum signal from the engine but has no electrical signal and is therefore largely independent of the ECM.

Fuel mixture is controlled by the Engine Control Module. The ECM makes the mixture richer or leaner by changing the duty cycle (the "on-time") of the injectors. When the engine is cold, the ECM operates in Open Loop mode and relies on signals from the ECTS. When the engine is warm, the ECM operates in Closed Loop mode and relies on signals from the front Oxygen Sensors.

When your engine is running the fuel rail pressure should stay in the 34 - 43 psi range. This is true for all conditions: cold engine or warm. When your engine is switched off that pressure should be maintained. This is called residual pressure. If your fuel rail loses pressure the engine will not start immediately at the next start-up... unless you give it the "brief delay" to build pressure.

The "brief delay" technique is a diagnostic measure, not a remedial one. It circumvents a problem but does not fix anything.

 

Thanks for the tips on starting guys. I thought about the remote starter then read that you can't get it on a 5 speed. Not sure if that was entirely true. But I do warm the car about 10 minutes or so before I drive it.

 

for looking up the info on the silicon spray. So overall it has been very good for you? I just don't want it to turn into my silicon spray and slow my windows down.

by chance--I heard that wd40 is bad for clean your window tracks--is that true?


[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jason96GLE
[I]I don't know the brand of silicon I used. I'll check when I go home tonight. I do know I bought it at Home Depot and they only had one choice, pretty simple.

 

There was a discussion a while back about having the ability to install the remote starter in the 5speed by bypassing some clutch switch, but it would be impossible to get a shop to do it for the liability risk. You could still possibly do it yourself. Do a search on the topic. Any you shouldn't have to warm up your car that long, a minute is fine, unless your waiting for the climate control to start before you drive off.

 

Well the reason I let it run is, cause i start it up, fire up the rear defrosters and winshield one, so I don't have to scrape it off. Plus its nice and toasty inside with the heat and heated seats.

 

thAT sux that you cant get a remote started for a manual. guess auto does have its advant over manual. later.

 

thAT sux that you cant get a remote starter for a manual. guess auto has some advant over manual. later.

 

Humaras-

You don't want to use WD-40 because it will dry out the seals and it will evaporate within time. Silicon is an excellant rubber protectant. If you use it your windows will go up and down a lot better.

 

Jason, did you by chance find out the name/ brand of the silicon lubricant you are using?

I think I am going to go to HD to find some--
but if you cna tell me what you are using that would be excellent!!

thanks...

Brian