It says $560 now... did it change?
http://www.avalonracing.net/avstore/...ax5-nmf00.html

Besides that, is there any benefit to ordering from JWT directly? Otherwise I don't see why not save some money and order through Avalon Racing.

 

yes it used to be $525, you may want to shoot them an email saying that other members have gotten it for $525 + shipping and see what they say.

--Paul

 

I went directly through JWT thinking it would be faster. It took 10 weeks if that tells you anything.

 

Anish, don't waste time with JWT...got thru avalon, esp. after he takes care of duties!! Paul's a great guy to do business with!

 

Thanks guys... I'll give Avalon Racing a call and ask for Paul. I'm still trying to decide on where to set my rev limit up to. I can't find a phone # for them. Does anyone have it?

How does he take care of duties anyway?

Justin, I really hope that we can switch the ECU this weekend. I've been waiting for so long to ship this ECU! lol

 

Using Requin6's dyno in cartest, the optimal shift points are:

7200
7200
6980

I'll have my own dyno saturday so we will have more data to compare. I'm dynoing both stock and JWT ECU and I will also attempt to put ANOTHER mystery to rest. I am going to do a pull with my JWT ECU then with the stock ECU then with the JWT again to see once and for all if ECUs really do "learn" and make more power after weeks of installation than they do the second they are installed.

 

Avalon - 603.425.2270

i happened to call them this morning

--Paul

 

I am very curious about the ECU comparison. If you remeber neal, I only gained .14 when I swapped your ECU in. The ECU was in my car for maybe 5 minutes before I ran.

 

for the record, i had the JWT ECU in for about a week/week and a half before i went to the dyno with it. i ran it first and then swapped in the stocker after the JWT run. also...i had just installed my MEVI the night before the dyno.

--Paul

 

How'd the dynos go Neal?

Here's mine: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=239838

+10HP, +6TQ from my pulley and plugs (my old plugs were platinums with 38000 miles)

 

DUH... I wasn't looking in the right place on their site... got it now... thanks.

What time do they open? lol... I've been trying to call all morning... wow it's only 10am... I guess it seems so late cuz I start at 7am! haha

I hope that Paul can lend me some insight on where I should put my rev limiter... I'm thinking 7200... at the very least. I wonder if 7400 would benefit me at all... that 2-3 or 3-4 shift would keep me in the red zone at all times if I shift that high - maybe that's not a good thing.

 

Your valve train won't be able to safely rev above 7200rpms. Go with either the 7000 or 7200 limiter.


Dave

 

did you ever get through to them?

 

yeah, 7000 or 7200...anymore you are looking at doing some real damage to your valvetrain. i am sure Paul at Avalon will tell you the same thing.

--Paul

 

I was thinking about the shift points... if 7200RPM is the optimal shift point for 1 to 2, then why not set the limiter at 7300RPM so you don't bounce off the limiter everytime you go 1-2 at the track?

 

bump

I was hoping to get an opinion on setting the rev limit to 7300 RPM since it was mentioned earlier that the optimal shift point from 1 - 2 is 7200RPM. That way you don't bounce off the rev limiter in 1st gear.

Also, keeping it at 7300RPM and not any higher should be safe for the motor too (otherwise I would love to go to higher if at all possible).

Any input?

 

I find this whole thread ammusing how you guys wanna make it rev like a honda @ 7000 or even @ 8000 s2000 style.

IMO_ get real mods and if you decided to rev this high, dont expect your ride to last. honda can take the abuse. dont know about a maxima sedan.

good luck though everyone.

 

What does it "sedan" have to do with it?

 

The S2000 revs to 9000 RPM.

 

What? We want to make our cars faster, we aren't out to make them rev like a Honda. And yes, what does the number of doors have to do with anything? What sort of real mods would you suggest I get, Bob, that I should sell my "wannabe honda" ECU that enabled me to gain a consistent 3mph through the traps for $600? If there's a better N/A bang for the buck out there I'm all ears. Perhaps the non-functional hood scoop in your sig would help me out? Or would that make me a wannabe Subaru? http://images.cardomain.com/member_i.../260375_38.jpg

 

hahaha nice...

Now let's get back on topic...

 

bump bump

I was hoping to get an opinion on setting the rev limit to 7300 RPM since it was mentioned earlier that the optimal shift point from 1 - 2 is 7200RPM. That way you don't bounce off the rev limiter in 1st gear.

Also, keeping it at 7300RPM and not any higher should be safe for the motor too (otherwise I would love to go to higher if at all possible).

Any input?

 

the optimal shift point is about 7500 actually. People are just saying 7200 because no one has tried anything higher. Dont split hairs over 100rpm differences. On any given day (last wednesday for example) I run between 14.1 and 14.4 depending on my launch (street tires). The .1 seconds you gain from going with 7200 instead of 7000 is negligable when you take into consideration that your times for the day will vary by .3 seconds.

 

What if I did get JWT to set my rev limiter to 7500RPM just so that I could shift at 7500RPM from 1-2... and then keep it under 7200RPM for the other shift points? Would I really be doing that much harm to my motor in that case?

 

I dont think JWT would do it, they have been refusing to do the 7200 limiter as of late. Anyhow it wouldn't gain you anything anyways, you're looking at like a .01 second difference. Literally hundredths of a second. That shift happens so fast you would never ever be able to tell the difference between 7500 and 7200 limiters on timeslips. I think you are just opening your self up to engine damage by going higher than 7200. All it takes is one time that you forget to shift soon enough, you run it out to 7500 in 2nd or 3rd on accident, and bam you need a new motor.

 

Look, I know we want to make em faster. I was just saying that you guys seem to be worried about another 300 rpms from 7000 - 7300, and some of you wanna go 8000rpms. Seriously, An engine isn't designed for that with stock internals. What I "meant" by real mods was do everything else (cat,ingnition,y,urpd,intake,etc..) Before you guys try to push-push your engine that far.
Remember i said IMO (in my opinion)

4-Doors has nothing to do with it, do know where that came from.

the hood scoop? mines original.

good day.mwest

 

Preach on, brutha.

Valve float can result in a nasty outcome.


Dave

 

Raising the rev limiter on a MEVI'd VQ30de is about as real of a mod as you get. Most of us posting in this thread have all, or close to all, the bolt on mods already, so you obviously don't know what your talking about.

What I would like to see is you elabortae on you list of real mods. Cat, ignition.....

 

Yep that is 100% correct. If anyone doubts me I can show you what happens when you float the valves. Now I don't have my #2 cylinder broken exhaust valve or rocker arm (both broke in half). But I still have pics of the hole in the #2 piston and the valve head lodged in it. Just think this was a VG30E that has a stock rev limit of 6400rpm with ISKY 262 cams. However holding an engine in the redline for an extended time aka rev limiter in 3rd gear (auto) will float valves. The VQ doesn't have any worrys since the rev limit stock is 6500. With the ecu 6900rpm won't be much of a bigger deal if the engine isn't held there for very long.

 

Wow ,this engine is really underestimated . The talk of valve float at 7200 rpm i dont belive it . Ive been 7700-7900rpm at least 200 times in first and second .The second gear goes nice up to 7900 Havent been over 7300 in third. But i also have a geardown . They at JWT just made that # up im sure ,so they werent liable. A engineer at JWT last week argued with me that the 2000 injectors were the same as 96 and the 2000 injectors had nothing to do with the 350 Z. But even if the damage occures at third gear in the high revs I will never get higher than 7300-7400 rpm in third.
There just as stupid as my local dealer, If my engine did blow that would be fine because it has around 200,000 miles ,one with 30,000 would rev there forever.
But maybe it will let go at 8500 rpm

 

hmmmmmmm im remember when the org was this interesting. what happend to threads like this?????

 

krismax, that is good to hear! But where did you get JWT to set your rev limit at?? Or did you have them totally uncap it for you?

One thing to consider however - how are you taking these RPM readings of 7700 or 7900? If it is just by looking at your tach, that might be off by a couple of hundred RPM. But you're still up at about 7500RPM at least from the looks of it.

 

Actually its the other way around when it shows 7850 its at 8000 ,thats my fuel cut

 

How long did it take you to get your ECU back? I don't have a MEVI but I'm very interested in doing this as long as it don't leave me carless for 2-3 weeks

 

over two months