jettatdi

iTrader: (2)

OK I cleaned the TB & the IACV. (They were really dirty) replaced the coolant temp sensor and cleaned the crank position sensors. I also changed the spark plugs and the PCV valve. Once it is running it does run a HECK of a lot better, but it is still a pain to start in the morning or when the engine is cold. If I give it a little boost of the gas pedal she will fire up though. I am thinking maybe the crank sensor is bad now and will replace that. What do you all think? I don't have a CEL, no ghost codes either. It has 150k miles on it and I have never had to replace any sensors at all, so at this point it could be about anything.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

I know this isn't any help...but...

After replacing my engine I had the EXACT same symptoms that you do. The car would start with a blip of the throttle and then run just fine.

It just went away. After awhile the car just started starting perfectly. I wish I knew why.

jettatdi

iTrader: (2)

bump bump...

Pappa Grande

Have you replaced your starter yet? With your milage your about due. When you start your car, you should turn the car half way for 2-4 seconds and then fully crank it.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

change feul filter, http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...k_service.html

after u turn on car does it go VEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH???????? if so regrease ur starter. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php

jettatdi

iTrader: (2)

Already did the fuel filter, that was my first guess. I still have the original starter on the car, so that could likely use a good lube after over 150k miles. I don't think that's the problem though.

Thanks for the tips though.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

have u replaced ur air filter recently?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

this might also help, have u tried cleaning ur MAF sensor?
all you do is take some rubbing alcahol and a Q-tip, clean inside hte MAF sensor
it might help.

i have looking for this too. [quote from Daniel B. Martin - Try this experiment. With the engine cold, turn the key to "on", wait ten
seconds, and then turn the key to "start". That delay gives the fuel pump
some extra time to build up pressure in the fuel rail. If the engine fires
readily and runs normally after this brief delay, there may be a problem
with fuel pressure (weak pump, leaky check valve). ]

more from him - Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Eric L.
Regarding the post about the car being flooded...isn't that really rare for fuel injected engines? ... ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, it's rare for a healthy engine to flood.

When you switch off your engine, the fuel injection system is supposed to maintain it's pressure. This is called "residual pressure" and it helps the engine start easily at the next start-up. If your engine has lost the residual pressure, the engine will not start with the usual ease.

How could the engine lose residual pressure?

#1) The fuel pump check valve leaks. The fuel returns to the fuel tank. The engine IS NOT flooded.

#2) The engine has one or more fuel injectors which don't close properly. The fuel leaks into the intake manifold, and sits there until the next start-up. The engine IS flooded.

You may do some simple tests to determine if your engine is hard to start because it has lost residual pressure.

Test #1, for leaky check valve. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, turn the ignition switch to ON, wait ten or fifteen seconds, and then twist the key to START. This brief delay gives the fuel pump time to build up the normal fuel pressure. If your engine starts and runs readily after this brief delay, you may have a leaky check valve.

Test #2, for leaky injectors. When the engine is cold and you expect a difficult start-up, press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.


Remedy for #1, leaky check valve. I suggest you just "learn to live with it" and make the ten-second delay part of your normal routine. The check valve is part of the fuel pump, situated inside the gas tank. This is an expensive repair.

Remedy for #2, leaky injectors. Buy three cans of name-brand fuel injector cleaner. Follow instructions on the can, and treat three successive tankfuls of gasoline. I've had good results with this kind of "snake oil". The three cans cost only US$5, so it is an inexpensive gamble. If the cleaner fails you may have to replace the leaky injectors and that is an expensive repair.