My EVAP system is confused, i think...
#1
My EVAP system is confused, i think...
My CEL is on and i ran the codes and got 1008, which can be either a canister purge control valve circuit fault, or the canister purge volume control valve. Anyone ever get these before? How difficult is it to repair? Also, does it affect fuel consumption in any way? Please help, I can't stand that bright orange light in my eyes.
#4
1008
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
from my sig/3rd link on hte sticky "Help my check engine light is on"
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
from my sig/3rd link on hte sticky "Help my check engine light is on"
#7
According to Chilton , this is the EVAP Canister purge control valve, not the solenoid (Code 08 07) as mentioned above and in the FAQ. Is this why we all are unable to get rid of the 10 08 code? What is the part number? HELP.....
#8
I think I finally fixed the 10 08 code. I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima and the replacement EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve was redesigned. I contacted one Nissan Dealer and they had no idea, so I called another dealer who was able to help me with the parts I needed.
I opened up the old valve and could see the contacts were all corroded and that's probably why it didn't work. The new valve requires an adapter bracket and two new hoses. These are slighly longer than the ones currently on the valve.
Now, I need to fix my starter noise.......
I opened up the old valve and could see the contacts were all corroded and that's probably why it didn't work. The new valve requires an adapter bracket and two new hoses. These are slighly longer than the ones currently on the valve.
Now, I need to fix my starter noise.......
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