plrod Black 95 SE

I just finished installing H&R's on my 2 month old KYB's. Also replaced be KYB isolators with OEM. The problem I had with rubber on rubber noise when turning the wheel at very slow speeds is gone, problem was with the KYB isolators which are different than the OEM. Bottom rubber piece is wafered on the OEM and straight round on the KYB's.

Anyway, I followed the OEM instructions exactly including setting the car in unladden position when tightening the strut shaft bolts. I also installed 18s afterwards.

My car rides beautifully. Doesn't pull left or right, just goes straight down the road. Other than a little more tire noise I now get with the 18's, I'm totally satisfied with the drop and ride.

Noticed a few more rattles in the car on bumpy roads that I'd never noticed before, suppose it's due to the stiffer springs. This is maybe why I've heard so many people complain of rattles in these cars; I'd previously not noticed significant rattles with the stock suspension.

So my question is: If the front end feels right, should I take the car to have it aligned anyway?

Daniel B. Martin

No. I think it is safe to trust your own judgement regarding the car's driving characteristics. Keep a close eye on the wear pattern of those new tires.

dch95

Yes you should because here is what has happened. I know this from personal experience. After you lowered the car, you did effected the toe in/out characteristics of the alignment. Depending on how low you dropped will depend on how much. You don,t really notice it because you have equally tampered (with out even noticing) the toe out adjustment. The lower you go on your drop, the more of an angle the toe will be. But like I said both tires now have pretty much the same angle of toe out that the steering wheel doesn,t move. Try this test. Go out to your car and adjust (with your eyes) the front left tire to appear as straight as your left rear tire. Then go to the right side of the car and you may actually see that the tire seems to be pointing to the right. I did this on my own and saw a big difference on the right front/rear tires. The steering wheel, at this time, was not straight any more. I know this sounds weird but give it a shot and see what you think. I don,t normally EVER disagree with Daniel B. Maxima, but in this case I respectfully do so. Hope this helps out. I did drive it for a while like this but I did get the front end aligned and it seemed just a tad bit better than before.

Daniel B. Martin

David Haygood makes a good point, one that I did not think of. He is right; I was wrong. It's worth your money to get an alignment. Please ask your alignment man to give you a "Before and After" printout. That will show how much toe correction was needed, and will be instructive to all of us.

Dave B

I recommend you let the springs settle before you align the car. Your "toe" will be off. What I noticed after the spring install was more "dartiness" with steering input even though the car tracked fine. After the spring settled (~3 weeks), I got the car aligned and the toe was quite bit off. After the alignment, the steering felt much firmer.


Dave

plrod Black 95 SE

Thanks for the input. It makes sense and I will do just that. By the way can you equate 3 weeks to a mileage amount, I don't drive the car that much and in 3 weeks I may not have put many miles on the car.

dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

I just bought Intrax spring and will be putting on 16" Enkei with some high performance tires. The springs are used, should i get the alignment right then or should i wait. the springs should already be settled right?? Also the car does need an alignment, pulls left and shakes over about 90mph.
________
California medical marijuana

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

If I were you I'd get a car wash first!!! hehehe!!!

plrod Black 95 SE

funny, I was thinking the same thing, LOL

dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

funny very funny, the sad thing is that it was washed just a couple days before i took the pictures. Gotta love winter in new england
________
LIVE SEX WEBSHOWS

cyclemax

iTrader: (1)

see http://www.ingallseng.com/performance/camberchange.htm

I bought the "correction bolts", but haven't installed them just yet (or had an alignment for that matter).

After the spring installatin (H&R) the car drives straight, but indeed feels "darty" and seems to follow cracks in the road-both symptoms of excessive neg camber. Plus, my $250/ea Dunlops are showing a little bit of "feather-edging" on the innermost tread block (fronts only). Could be toed-out too.

Gotta get to the alignment shop....

dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

What does everyone think of this item http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/3542.htm
It's only 15 dollars and if it will help at all i will get it, I'm planning on lowering 1.75 with intrax springs. Do i need one or two of those kits?? CYCLEMAX, your still alive, i haven't heard from you in a while. How you been. Even get around to using that AOL account i set up. Hope to see you and your shweet ride at the next meet.
________
LustyNata cam

dch95

I ordered them and after receiving them, I personally think they suck. You are putting a bolt in that at the shank is about 1/2 thichness of OEM. Doesn,t instill a lot of confidence in me. What I did to correct for camber was use a 1/2 inch thick bolt since OEM is 14mm, this would be the next step down. If that wouldn,t have worked, I would have went with a 12mm instead. They will allow for the camber adjustment, are easy to find (NAPA) and have more shank then those Ingalls Camber Bolts.

dch95

I ordered them and after receiving them, I personally think they suck. You are putting a bolt in that at the shank is about 1/2 thichness of OEM. Doesn,t instill a lot of confidence in me. What I did to correct for camber was use a 1/2 inch thick bolt since OEM is 14mm, this would be the next step down. If that wouldn,t have worked, I would have went with a 12mm instead. They will allow for the camber adjustment, are easy to find (NAPA),have more shank then those Ingalls Camber Bolts and are cheaper as well. One for each side will be enough to do the job.

cyclemax

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, me and the Maxima are still alive. I just got back from the Carribbean and have been way busy lately so I've been laying low on the Maxima scene. Mine could use a good wash too. When's the next meet? I hope to make it.

Anyway, I got the bolts for like $11 ea. (they sell them individually) from BMP performance on the web (I think that's their name). Seemed like a really good source (polite and speedy delivery).

dch95 is correct in that they have a smaller shank than the originals, although I don't think it's half size. The bolt may be a higher grade than the original to retain the strength, but I'll have to check to be sure.

Hey dch95, do you remember what your specs were b4 and after the correction with the .5" bolts? I suspect the 1.3mm (.050") difference wouldn't be enough to correct for a typical 1.5" drop, which can be a whole degree or more. Is your car lowered or were you just looking to perfect the geometry on a stock setup?

Steve, I'd wait on the bolts for now. At least until you are ready to do the springs. I'll let you know what my numbers are once it's measured.

Eric L.

Well, I would recommend getting a lifetime alignment deal somewhere. You will need an alignment eventually (lowered suspension goes out of whack more quickly than normal), so why not get a lifetime deal somewhere. I paid $120 for a lifetime alignment at Firestone, and have gotten my money's worth already with three alignments in the past one and a half years.

dch95

Actually I was just told that they were able to get the camber within spec with the bolts I had installed. The car was lowered with Progress Springs which dropped quite a bit after settling but the bolts seemed to do the trick. Perhaps the grade of steel used was of higher quality then stock but I don,t know. They just did not seem right.