Dyno pre install Cattman Header & Catback insta

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10-24-2003, 03:01 PM

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Dyno pre install Cattman Header & Catback insta

Very disappointed with my Dyno but willing to face reality. Are these number's normal for my Max ? All I have is UD Pulley upgrade and PR CAI,
also just installed all new coil packs and NGk copper spark plugs at .045 gap. I do have 18" Konig Holes.
Here it is :
1st. run 10/24/03 @ 3:44 PM 127.9 Max Power/Max Torque 157.7
2nd. run 10/24/03 @ 3:47 PM 124.2 Max Power/Max Torque 156.8
3rd. run 10/24/03 @ 4:01 PM 129.8 Max Power/max Torque 153.2
Sorry I don't have a scanner. I might take a picture with a digital
camera later on, but doe's that suck or what?
Now I'm ****ed!!!!!! can't wait for the install next week.
Forget the Nitrous, I'm going to Super Charge it 1st Quarter next year!
My follow up Dyno will come up after the Header & Catback install.
Hope everyone is happy now. Buy the way the guy's over at
Cartek Tuning in "Davie" are very cool. $75.00 for three runs. Next Saturday
is Dyno Day and they will have a special promo price for you guy's here
in South Florida "Go Marlins". Let me know what you guy's think.
Reality sometime's hurt's but it's worse not react on the outcomes. Wish me luck.

10-24-2003, 03:04 PM

ivelweyz

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.045 gap is too much, .039-.044 is our spec. The numbers are TERRIBLE. You're missing about 30hp/tq...

10-24-2003, 03:10 PM

Kevlo911

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i think u have a DEAD KNOCK SENSOR, search for more info

stock auto's dish out 150 hp to the wheel and stock manual dish out 165+

10-24-2003, 03:11 PM

SLC98Max

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NOMAD MAXIMA

Those numbers are really low. You should be in the 150-160ish range for horsepower stock. I beleive torque should be 160-170ish depending on the dyno you use. Was it a dynojet? I got 180fwhp and 192fwTq with just a short ram intake, Ypipe and obx exhaust.

I would check your knock sensor. It's really easy to check and is a common problem on the 4th gens. There are intructions on how to check it in the FAQ section.

Edit: I just saw you had 18 inch rims.....That will lower your numbers but I don't think they should lower them that much. BTW thanks for the before and after dynos of the headers.

10-24-2003, 03:22 PM

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kevlo911

i think u have a DEAD KNOCK SENSOR, search for more info

stock auto's dish out 150 hp to the wheel and stock manual dish out 165+

I had some work done at the dealer not to long ago and they said they had a special promotion I missed out on which included all kinds of sensor's being replaced for free. They guy said it was about $1000.00 worth of sensor's! I was like yeah right to myself but I'm going to have the knock sensor checked anyway. I was at the game last night her in Miami, It was great. The Yankee's where alway's a favorite of mine and my dad, but know we have a team that's kicking ****. Let's see Mr. N.Y.

10-24-2003, 03:46 PM

Dave B

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It would be good to know what kind of dyno you ran on. Dynojet, Mustang, Dynapack, ......? They all read differently.

Dave

10-24-2003, 03:51 PM

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ivelweyz

.045 gap is too much, .039-.044 is our spec. The numbers are TERRIBLE. You're missing about 30hp/tq...

When I took out the original platinum's they where about .047!!
Acourding to some of the other threads here on the org .045 for the
NGK coppers are fine . Correct me if I'm wrong and I'll go back in there in the AM. These numbers however are freaking me out. The car did seem to have more pep after the coilpacks and plug change.

10-24-2003, 03:53 PM

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave B

It would be good to know what kind of dyno you ran on. Dynojet, Mustang, Dynapack, ......? They all read differently.

Dave

It was a WinPEP.

10-24-2003, 03:55 PM

Sentinal

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yeah those numbers seem low. u should perform a tune-up (clean TB, change PCV valve, new sparkies, check knock sensor, etc), you should notice a difference after u do this....And yeah MARLINS! all the way!

10-24-2003, 04:01 PM

#10

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SLC98Max

Hey, what ever I can do for our people here on the org. I've gotten so much info here it's making my friend with a Tubo Volvo jealous. These numbers are eating me alive!!

10-24-2003, 04:14 PM

#11

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 98maxgle

Killer all of that has been done. You didn't read my post right. Not only plugs but also coilpacks are new, installed today!! And my TB was cleaned not to long ago but, the knock sensor thing really has me wondering. My car idles great, no misfiring at all. I mean doe's it just go bad and that's it ? What else beside's embarrasing Dyno's are the sign's and symptom's? Now I sound medical! GO Marlins!!

10-24-2003, 04:21 PM

#12

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NOMAD MAXIMA

Also I forgot to mention the guy said he new people that would kill to have my air fuel ratio. It was pretty straight all across!! The plot thickens.

10-24-2003, 04:34 PM

#13

ivelweyz

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I thought the a/f ratio is NOT supposed to be flat...

10-24-2003, 04:37 PM

#14

ivelweyz

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NOMAD MAXIMA

All the manuals say .039-.044. I'm guessing that those are SAFE numbers. The perfect number is probably like .041-.042 and the lower and higher ones are like tolerances...

10-24-2003, 04:53 PM

#15

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ivelweyz

I thought the a/f ratio is NOT supposed to be flat...

No it's not flat! They way it was discribed is that I'm getting the right amount of fuel for the RPM's. There is no "spiking". He took it up to about 6400 RPM's at about 130 MPH's. Did you ever have a Dyno done on your car? I mean it's scary and cool at the same time but it's a great learning experiance. Your like, if it doesn't "explode" you've been taking car of your car the right way.

10-24-2003, 05:04 PM

#16

mzmtg

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NOMAD MAXIMA

I was like yeah right to myself but I'm going to have the knock sensor checked anyway.

You dont need to "have it checked." Check the ECU for the code yourself. If required, change it yourself. Dont pay other people to do this simple stuff.

Also, if you ask how to check the ECU codes, or change the knock sensor, you will be banned.

10-24-2003, 05:11 PM

#17

NOMAD MAXIMA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mzmtg

OK, OK I'll look it up. Sh** Dude! Thanks.

10-24-2003, 07:51 PM

#18

2naboy

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a symptom is if your car lags when you press the pedal. If there is a hesitation then it kicks in that is a pretty good indication of a bad knock sensor. Run your codes it should come up i think its 0304.

10-24-2003, 10:03 PM

#19

mforrest100

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The thing is that most of the time the knock sensor will not throw a code. You just need to have it checked. Mine never threw a code and when I had it changed because of the symptoms when I looked at it, it was cracked. Just have it checked or change it regardless of code or not.