I give up. (MEVI)
#1
I give up. (MEVI)
Well I went to rewire it all b/c it wasnt done the way I wanted it. But before that I put a led in my gauge cluster to show when it was activated. I think that may have messed up the harlan. The harlan is showing it is coming on at the set point but no output I am guessing. The relay is working b/c I can switch the points up and it clicks. Where are you guys getting your RPM switches from besides harlan. Summit Racing? Just mad b/c tonight is the last time the track is open until next spring.
#2
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D830449
Solved all my VI activation problems. You can't set the dip switches to your desired rpm since it's not made for 6 cylinder applications. You kinda have to play around to see what works best for you. I have mine at 3400 and it opens at 5400
Solved all my VI activation problems. You can't set the dip switches to your desired rpm since it's not made for 6 cylinder applications. You kinda have to play around to see what works best for you. I have mine at 3400 and it opens at 5400
#7
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D830449
Solved all my VI activation problems. You can't set the dip switches to your desired rpm since it's not made for 6 cylinder applications. You kinda have to play around to see what works best for you. I have mine at 3400 and it opens at 5400
Solved all my VI activation problems. You can't set the dip switches to your desired rpm since it's not made for 6 cylinder applications. You kinda have to play around to see what works best for you. I have mine at 3400 and it opens at 5400
#8
Originally Posted by LastBoyScout
wonder what the difference is between the Middle East version and the standard Japanese version VI's...... if any
TK
#9
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Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
So what would you set it to to open at 5000? Also are you running a relay? It says it uses "extensive input protection circuitry to keep the switch from blowing up if you connect it to something that draws too much current." So no need for relay? Can I still use my led in the gauge cluster, I am assuming I can. The harlan was starting to play out. It works sometimes and sometimes dont.
Don't need a relay with this switch. Just power it off the cig lighter fuse.
There would be no problem using an LED, actually there will be an unused wire and it powers off at the given rpm. So you could use that one.
#10
they all originate in japan... mevi's just wind up in the middle east... oh.. one difference, the egr port is plugged if you actually get one from the middle east.
Originally Posted by LastBoyScout
wonder what the difference is between the Middle East version and the standard Japanese version VI's...... if any
#11
Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
Well I went to rewire it all b/c it wasnt done the way I wanted it. But before that I put a led in my gauge cluster to show when it was activated. I think that may have messed up the harlan. The harlan is showing it is coming on at the set point but no output I am guessing. The relay is working b/c I can switch the points up and it clicks. Where are you guys getting your RPM switches from besides harlan. Summit Racing? Just mad b/c tonight is the last time the track is open until next spring.
Now you see why I got so frustrated. A whole damn week of that BS.
Get the one from Summit Racing.
#12
Originally Posted by LastBoyScout
wonder what the difference is between the Middle East version and the standard Japanese version VI's...... if any
#14
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
You would have to play with it a bit to get it to open at 500, maybe 3K?? I used the track to find my best setting. If I go any lower or higher I loose a little bit of trap speed.
Don't need a relay with this switch. Just power it off the cig lighter fuse.
There would be no problem using an LED, actually there will be an unused wire and it powers off at the given rpm. So you could use that one.
Don't need a relay with this switch. Just power it off the cig lighter fuse.
There would be no problem using an LED, actually there will be an unused wire and it powers off at the given rpm. So you could use that one.
ejj - you said you been using them for years, does that mean you had to buy another one?
#15
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Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
So wired off the cig lighter means it only comes on when the car is on, my harlan was wired up to stay on all the time so it didnt lose the settings. I wont lose the settings if I wire it up like that?,(but this one has a dial so it might work like that?) or does it have a constant power wire and a off/on wire? BTW, I ordered one today. $45.99. And it has two output wires?
It does have two out put wires. One that has power until the desired rpms is reached and another that has power once the desired rpm is reached. Of course you will use the one that does not send a signal until the desired rpm is reached. The other could be used to power your led, but it would work backwards and be on all the time unitl the VI activated. The summit is much easier to use than the harlan.
#17
Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
ejj - you said you been using them for years, does that mean you had to buy another one?
#18
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
You did not have to have the harlan powred by the battery because it would not have lost it's setting if it did not have power. Either will the summit switch, so you will have no problems using the cig for power. The summit can not have power and it will retain it's settings.
It does have two out put wires. One that has power until the desired rpms is reached and another that has power once the desired rpm is reached. Of course you will use the one that does not send a signal until the desired rpm is reached. The other could be used to power your led, but it would work backwards and be on all the time unitl the VI activated. The summit is much easier to use than the harlan.
It does have two out put wires. One that has power until the desired rpms is reached and another that has power once the desired rpm is reached. Of course you will use the one that does not send a signal until the desired rpm is reached. The other could be used to power your led, but it would work backwards and be on all the time unitl the VI activated. The summit is much easier to use than the harlan.
#20
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Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Maybe I just got lucky, but my Harlan has never failed me.
where are you guys getting the power for relay and RPM switch? I have a harlan and is worked fine so far. If it dont get RPM signal is my fault as the wire is not positioneed properly. I have to redo it again when I get a chance.
I got my power from the ECU and ran a long wire to the battery to get a positive. The cigarette lighter is not a good positive in my car. Shorts out
#22
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constant for both positives. The cig lighter was not a good positive. It would work sometimes and others it would die. I just ran a long wire to st8t to the positive side of the battery. Works just fine now.
#24
Man, I dont have the Mid-Eastern Variable Intake, but uh, why the hell does my Car pull hard all the way to red-line? She pulls harder the high the RPMS... Im sorry and it's proble hard to belive, but my max has no MEVI to my knowledge, but, she doesn't lose any power until 7k rpms(red-line).
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
#25
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Originally Posted by Tight_Whip
Man, I dont have the Mid-Eastern Variable Intake, but uh, why the hell does my Car pull hard all the way to red-line? She pulls harder the high the RPMS... Im sorry and it's proble hard to belive, but my max has no MEVI to my knowledge, but, she doesn't lose any power until 7k rpms(red-line).
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
#26
Originally Posted by Tight_Whip
Man, I dont have the Mid-Eastern Variable Intake, but uh, why the hell does my Car pull hard all the way to red-line? She pulls harder the high the RPMS... Im sorry and it's proble hard to belive, but my max has no MEVI to my knowledge, but, she doesn't lose any power until 7k rpms(red-line).
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
#27
Originally Posted by JAY25
where are you guys getting the power for relay and RPM switch? I have a harlan and is worked fine so far. If it dont get RPM signal is my fault as the wire is not positioneed properly. I have to redo it again when I get a chance.
I got my power from the ECU and ran a long wire to the battery to get a positive. The cigarette lighter is not a good positive in my car. Shorts out
I got my power from the ECU and ran a long wire to the battery to get a positive. The cigarette lighter is not a good positive in my car. Shorts out
#28
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Originally Posted by Tight_Whip
Man, I dont have the Mid-Eastern Variable Intake, but uh, why the hell does my Car pull hard all the way to red-line? She pulls harder the high the RPMS... Im sorry and it's proble hard to belive, but my max has no MEVI to my knowledge, but, she doesn't lose any power until 7k rpms(red-line).
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
put your car on the dyno and watch your HP and torque curve. I bet after thoroughly looking at the dyno sheet, youll be on the horn ordering a MEVI.
#29
Originally Posted by JAY25
What type of ECU do you have?
put your car on the dyno and watch your HP and torque curve. I bet after thoroughly looking at the dyno sheet, youll be on the horn ordering a MEVI.
put your car on the dyno and watch your HP and torque curve. I bet after thoroughly looking at the dyno sheet, youll be on the horn ordering a MEVI.
#30
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That really sounds like BS. The engine starts losing power like crazy close to 6000rpm or so, maybe earlier. You staying on it til redline, 6600rpm not 7000, you are not doing yourself a favor. Also why would you shift at 5krpm when the max hp is at 5600rpm or so...
#31
Because you dono better? I don't think you know the difference till you ride in a car with a VI or see a video of the tach of a car with VI.
Originally Posted by Tight_Whip
Man, I dont have the Mid-Eastern Variable Intake, but uh, why the hell does my Car pull hard all the way to red-line? She pulls harder the high the RPMS... Im sorry and it's proble hard to belive, but my max has no MEVI to my knowledge, but, she doesn't lose any power until 7k rpms(red-line).
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
Don't Criticize. Just tell me why you think Im pulling hard all the way to 7k rpms with acually a gain in power at higher RPMS. No SC or TC, only WS Y-pipe & PR CAI.
Automatic GXE 1998
#32
Originally Posted by Tight_Whip
LOL, yeah proble, but, if i shifted at 5k when racing, the other guy would tear me a new @ss hole, the longer i stay in gear the further away I pull. Atleast this is what i've learned through all my races. Hey, im more than willing to hear any other tips you guys have for racing with an automatic. 1-2-D are my only options. Only thing i really could to is keep it in Drive and let the autoshift the gears @ 6500.
1-2 6600
2-3 6200
3-4 6100
As you can see, shift points don't always coincide with peak power rpm.
Dave
#33
if u want to run a LED u have to tap into the vacuum power leads(comming off the harlan) this is the way i hae it and it works fine and BTW im running power from cig lighter, and signal from coil... i have no problems other than a ~300rpm correction factor (ex. set at 4800rpm to activate at 5100rpm) .. but then again i dont have a cig lighter.. i removed it for a project im doing
#34
Ok I got the summit switch and it doesnt work. The solenoid works, I tested it. The coil is tapped right, tested that. Wired it up according to the instructions. Even set it at the lowest setting. NOTHING! I will be sending this POS back. Now I guess I will have to wait 8 months for another harlan.
#35
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Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
Ok I got the summit switch and it doesnt work. The solenoid works, I tested it. The coil is tapped right, tested that. Wired it up according to the instructions. Even set it at the lowest setting. NOTHING! I will be sending this POS back. Now I guess I will have to wait 8 months for another harlan.
#36
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
The summit will not work off the coil pack. You need to tap into the tach wire on the ECU.
#37
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Originally Posted by 96shogunmax
Theres the answer I was looking for. Also you said 3250 is 5400 rpm setting? So if I used 3200 flat I should be 5200ish? Now all I got to do is find that wire.
The wire you need off the ECU is White with a green stripe.
#38
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
The summit is only adjustable in 200rpm increments. I use 3400, Although I may have told you 3200 previously. 3400 gives me a VI activation at an indicated 5300-5500 rpms.
The wire you need off the ECU is White with a green stripe.
The wire you need off the ECU is White with a green stripe.
So I may try 3200 on mine. My VI seemed to do well on 5000 setting the best. Thanks alot, I tried to hit you up on AIM but you wasnt on. Thanks again.
#39
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The wire is a littel hard to find. First, looking at the ECU with the harness attached and mounted, the wire will be to the left of the harness bolt.
Remove the harness and take off the plastic cover. Cut back a few inches of the wrap that bundles the wires toghther so you have room to sort through the wires. The easiest place to find the wire is near the pin hole, but I would recomend tapping it higher up.
Remove the harness and take off the plastic cover. Cut back a few inches of the wrap that bundles the wires toghther so you have room to sort through the wires. The easiest place to find the wire is near the pin hole, but I would recomend tapping it higher up.