Air in brake lines.....have a quick question...
#1
Air in brake lines.....have a quick question...
I installed the Goodridge SS lines along with some speedbleeders at all 4 wheels and now I have air in the lines (left resevoir cap open when changing lines - dumb). The rear passenger wheel speedbleeder isn't working but the ones at the other three wheels are. My brake pedal is complete mush now, goes all the way to the floorboard.
Is it true that if there's air in the lines that the speedbleeders won't work properly? Do I have to go around and re-install the stock bleeder at each wheel and bleed the line the normal way (push in brake pedal, open stock bleeder, let out fluid, close bleeder, release pedal) before re-installing the speedbleeder? I read somewhere that someone had a similar problem with his speedbleeder not working and he reinstalled it to cure the problem. Dunno if that will work in my case though.
Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving....
Is it true that if there's air in the lines that the speedbleeders won't work properly? Do I have to go around and re-install the stock bleeder at each wheel and bleed the line the normal way (push in brake pedal, open stock bleeder, let out fluid, close bleeder, release pedal) before re-installing the speedbleeder? I read somewhere that someone had a similar problem with his speedbleeder not working and he reinstalled it to cure the problem. Dunno if that will work in my case though.
Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving....
#2
The only thing I can figure is this: If you have a lot of air in that line, when you press the pedal, the air compresses so much that there is not enough pressure transmited to the speedbleeder to open the spring loaded check valve.
Try putting the regular bleeder back in and getting the air out that way...
Try putting the regular bleeder back in and getting the air out that way...
#4
Thanks guys. One more ?...
Can I assume that since the other three lines bled properly, that there is air in only the 4th brake line and not the master cylinder or the other three lines?
I guess I can just re-bleed the 4th line and see if that clears up the mushy pedal problem.
Can I assume that since the other three lines bled properly, that there is air in only the 4th brake line and not the master cylinder or the other three lines?
I guess I can just re-bleed the 4th line and see if that clears up the mushy pedal problem.
#6
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Did I stutter?? hehe. It's all the lines or nothing. Actually to all of them over again
Right? I'm just trying to understand what's going on here before I dive back into this later today...
#8
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well the point of bleeding the lines is to get the air out. If speedbleeders don't work if there is air in the lines, what's the point of them?
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
If there's air in the MC, you have to bleed it seperately.
#10
Originally Posted by sbslacker
I installed the Goodridge SS lines along with some speedbleeders at all 4 wheels and now I have air in the lines (left resevoir cap open when changing lines - dumb). The rear passenger wheel speedbleeder isn't working but the ones at the other three wheels are. My brake pedal is complete mush now, goes all the way to the floorboard.
Is it true that if there's air in the lines that the speedbleeders won't work properly? Do I have to go around and re-install the stock bleeder at each wheel and bleed the line the normal way (push in brake pedal, open stock bleeder, let out fluid, close bleeder, release pedal) before re-installing the speedbleeder? I read somewhere that someone had a similar problem with his speedbleeder not working and he reinstalled it to cure the problem. Dunno if that will work in my case though.
Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving....
Is it true that if there's air in the lines that the speedbleeders won't work properly? Do I have to go around and re-install the stock bleeder at each wheel and bleed the line the normal way (push in brake pedal, open stock bleeder, let out fluid, close bleeder, release pedal) before re-installing the speedbleeder? I read somewhere that someone had a similar problem with his speedbleeder not working and he reinstalled it to cure the problem. Dunno if that will work in my case though.
Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving....
ok - had the same scenario - installed SS lines and speedbleeders
the rear passenger seemed not to work like the rest of them - the fluid was barely coming out of it when attempting to bleed that line , also the bleeder screw was leaking from under the rubber cap ( emailed speedbleeder 6 times with not a single resopnse )
I thought that my caliper was bad so i almost bought new rear caliper
than I tried to bleed it again and it did bleed ( but i still think that rear caliper is not working properly - i checked the temp of rotor after short drive and it was much cooler then drvier passenger side)
as is stands now - I used some teflon lock tie to seal of the threads of the bleeder and left it that way.
one question though: Did you follow the bleeding sequence ????
becouse i did not , and i think this could be the cause
I will rebleed with the proper sequence next week or so
and there is nothing wrong with leaving MC cap off during changin brake lines
You want it to be open - so it doesn't explode with brake fluid under the hood
my brakes are fine though , car stops on the spot
is just that one rear passenger speebleeder bugging me
Nick
#11
Originally Posted by nick
ok - had the same scenario - installed SS lines and speedbleeders
the rear passenger seemed not to work like the rest of them - the fluid was barely coming out of it when attempting to bleed that line , also the bleeder screw was leaking from under the rubber cap ( emailed speedbleeder 6 times with not a single resopnse )
I thought that my caliper was bad so i almost bought new rear caliper
than I tried to bleed it again and it did bleed ( but i still think that rear caliper is not working properly - i checked the temp of rotor after short drive and it was much cooler then drvier passenger side)
as is stands now - I used some teflon lock tie to seal of the threads of the bleeder and left it that way.
one question though: Did you follow the bleeding sequence ????
becouse i did not , and i think this could be the cause
I will rebleed with the proper sequence next week or so
and there is nothing wrong with leaving MC cap off during changin brake lines
You want it to be open - so it doesn't explode with brake fluid under the hood
my brakes are fine though , car stops on the spot
is just that one rear passenger speebleeder bugging me
Nick
the rear passenger seemed not to work like the rest of them - the fluid was barely coming out of it when attempting to bleed that line , also the bleeder screw was leaking from under the rubber cap ( emailed speedbleeder 6 times with not a single resopnse )
I thought that my caliper was bad so i almost bought new rear caliper
than I tried to bleed it again and it did bleed ( but i still think that rear caliper is not working properly - i checked the temp of rotor after short drive and it was much cooler then drvier passenger side)
as is stands now - I used some teflon lock tie to seal of the threads of the bleeder and left it that way.
one question though: Did you follow the bleeding sequence ????
becouse i did not , and i think this could be the cause
I will rebleed with the proper sequence next week or so
and there is nothing wrong with leaving MC cap off during changin brake lines
You want it to be open - so it doesn't explode with brake fluid under the hood
my brakes are fine though , car stops on the spot
is just that one rear passenger speebleeder bugging me
Nick
Well, I assumed that since I left the cap off when I changed the lines, that allowed the resevoir to drain completely and allowed air into the system. I figured that if I left the cap on, the fluid would have still drained out of the lines, but the MC and resevoir would have stayed relatively full and not allowed any air into the system.
I'm going to try rebleeding the pass. rear this afternoon and then the rest of them if that doesn't work.
#12
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