At 90,000km i decided to change my oil to synthetic (mobile1 5w-30). i now can only run 400-420km on a full tank. Before the oil change, i was hitting 540-580km consistently. *with this given - there was no other significant change in weather, grade of gas, driving aggression, and etc.

1) what's going on? what happened to the 140-160km?

If you did a straight switch without cleansers, etc, it's possible you might be still mixing synthetic with regular a bit.. You may also have loosened up some of the carbon deposits and things.. Run it for a couple tanks, then do another oil change and run some fuel system cleaner in your gas.

Just a guess..

i got the opposite reaction after switching to mobil 1??

man u biatches grow money or something? how can u spend 55 bux on oil lol

we arent like 17

Edit: come to think of it, i dont even know if its you I'm thinkin of and if it IS you, that just got the max at like 16-17 and its mint with really low miles, i didnt intend any offense by that either

did thats too mine too but I use Royal Purple 5-30 But I cleaned out my fuel system with something called c-foam or soething like and I didnt have any problems. Clean out your system Noslen

I'll try cleaning out the fuel system? what brand should i look for? and where can i get it?

PS- i live in Toronto

I've run Mobil-1 10W30 in my 98 SE auto since about 80k... (it's almost 160k now). I'm pleased with the results; the car still runs great.

Your fuel consumption issues could be related to tank-to-tank variations in when the pump shuts off.

Or something co-incidental that you may have missed.

You sure the weather in Toronto hasn't changed recently? Don't forget to check your tire pressure - it makes a big difference in tire life and fuel economy.

yea thats me lol, mint 98 se with 26k. but im not 17. im 19.5

There's a lot of amsoil resellers on this board that would be happy to sell you stuff. Otherwise, just head to your local parts store. Any brand name should be fine. I've used chevron's bottled additive in the past. Penzoil or any of that stuff should work fine too.

i think (hakk97se)jon's assumption is correct. i bought 5 quartz of 5w-30 mobile 1 supersyn with nissan oem oil fitler. the factory manual suggest about 4.5 quartz total. i say when you drain your old oil, let it leak out COMPLETELY. add about .5 quartz of synthetic and let it leak out so it will washes through your old oil, then secure the nut.

btw what kinda oil filter are you running?

because it helps your engine to last longer, increases performance, and provided better gas mileage. synthetic oil doesn't wear down as bad as non-synthetic oil, therefore better protection on the engine.
it doesn't matter how old you are. it's the maturity that counts.

and post anything under Fluids and Lubricants, bill will probably help you with most of your questions

are you saying let it drain, then put the .5 in wait until that clears then fill it up?

While its good thinking, this accomplishes absolutley nothing except waste .5l of synthetic oil. You would get more of the old oil out by takeing off your oil pan and taking a degreaser to it, letting it dry and installing it, and even that does almost nothing.

you will not get the oil out of the lifters and oil passages until you run the engine for abit. running fresh oil threw the filler to the oil catch pan only touches half of the motor (and nothing important at that). You need to run the motor with the new oil first.

Next time you feel like dumping that extra .5 down the engine, set it aside, and start a do 9 get one free (oil change) program for yourself.

i was just throwing out ideas since Noslen didn't seemed to be fully "synthetic" yet. personally i did not have that problem when i switched to synthetic. i just did my normal oil change and it all worked out fine.

cool.

just didnt want to see you throwing away .5quarts every oil change or something

yea i know. he thought i was 17 and i told him that im not, thats it.....

Are you kidding, Mobil 1 is like $24 a six pack where I'm at

how many miles ya got????? you are like al bundy with his dodge....

one more thing....it is hard to take the oil pan off. I am not really expsirenced, i can change oil easily, you know. Mine is leaking i think.

Well km vs mph throws me off but (25% decrease?):

thinner oil tends to decrease compression. What weight did you use before? Synthetic tends to be thinner overall (and very much cleaner/less sludge).

If your piston rings are old, thinner oil could lessen the amount of compression you have...thereby decreasing the amount of power you get out of every stroke.

Sludge can build up over time using dino oils, and recently...at about 210K miles, I ran an engine cleaner. I literally saw alot of sludge on the cam go away. Use engine cleaners sparingly due to seal purposes. Taking off the oil pan...is a good way to clean out sludge that falls to the bottom of the engine, but that doesn't affect sludge everywhere else. Caution: Sludge everywhere else may very well be help sealing oil leaks everywhere else. So think about...think before you use engine degreasers and thin oils if you got a really old engine.

be happie u get that much i get about 315-320 on a full tank and i use reg mobile motor oil. well i guess the amount u dropped at would make anyone mad.

i guess i gotta start changin my own oil

Uh synthetic oils are NOT thinner. Just more consistent in size.

What do you mean? Keeping a car until it dies, 'cause I can't afford a new one? I guess that describes me pretty well. When the Max dies, it will probably be replaced with a minivan, so...

I have been very impressed with the durability of the VQ30DE motor and the Max in general. Aside from consumables, the only work I have had to do to it was getting the injectors cleaned once and replacing a bad canister vent valve ($30). Like I said, the car still runs great and consumes about a half a quart of oil or less per five thousand miles. And it's still nice on the exterior and interior. (Exterior would be nicer if people would quit running into my wife!)

Now my wife drives the max mostly. I prefer my 1986 VW Jetta Diesel for my short daily commute... it's got 225,000 miles on it, and it's a lot more like Bundy's Dodge.

If you're not planning on keeping the car a long time, why bother with synthetic, anyway?

I'm thinking about a 200k renovation for the Max. Get a wrecked donor car and swap in a low-milage engine & 5-speed. Cover the seats in leather or replace with new seats. Replace carpet and struts... (yes, I believe my struts are original). Add y-pipe and strut tower brace. Might fight off the urge to get over my head on a G35S 6MT (Carribean Blue) purchase...

if it helps any, when i switched to synthetic (mobil 1 10W30, $24 for six quarts) i got the worst gas mileage for like 5,000 miles afterwards. I was getting like 220 miles to the tank at the most. Now, i get double that. Granted i also do regular maintence (fuel filter, TB cleaning, etc), and that might've helped.


PS: when i got the max, i was 20 and it had 28k mi. now i'm 21 1/2 and the car has 60k mi.

[QUOTE=fearthegecko]if it helps any, when i switched to synthetic (mobil 1 10W30, $24 for six quarts) i got the worst gas mileage for like 5,000 miles afterwards. I was getting like 220 miles to the tank at the most. Now, i get double that. Granted i also do regular maintence (fuel filter, TB cleaning, etc), and that might've helped.QUOTE]


you know what guys?!?! this is what i'm starting to see, better gas mileage. i am 1/2 though my tank and its was at 240km. and yet i haven't done anything (no cleaners, and etc). This is very weird, i'm gonna have to keep on driving and see what happens.