kchida

OK I would search all this info but since the 'search' feature's down I'll ask you all. Flame if you would like, I'm just in a very desparate situation. My CV boot just died and there's grease flying everywhere.

Since I figure I'll be changing out the CV axles I thought I'll go ahead and change the shocks/struts as well (I think they're factory originals with 130k on them ) and axle seals. So, I just have a couple suspension related questions. I'm planning to install KYB GR-2's all around with stock SE springs. Now here are the questions:

Do I need to cut the bumpstops on the dust boots? (I want to maximize travel but not interested in buying Motivational rear mounts)

Do I really need to change rear shock mounts? (I'll definitely change front strut mounts)

Any noticable difference with all new Energy Suspension bushings up front? Is it worth the $60is dollars for all the bushings?

Any bad experiences with reman. axles from Pepboys, Kragen, Autozone, etc? They're only $71 each with core exchange. Or should I go with raxle.com

OK, that's it for now. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also, where do you all get your parts?

Happy holidays!

nismology

iTrader: (8)

How do you know you need to replace the whole shaft? Just because the boot is ripped doesn't mean the joint needs replacing. Find out for sure first whether or not the joint is in bad shape then replace as needed. Even then it might just be the outer CV joint. The only reason you should have to replace the whole axle is if the inner and outer joints are worn, and if the shaft itself is bent.

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

You don't need to change the rear mounts b/c Dave B at the Nissan dealer said they were metal or something and that they don't go bad. You're not lowering your car so don't worry about Motivational mounts.

Your dustboots are fine after 130k miles? You can cut the bumpstops or buy KYB dustboots. Don't forget to change the front strut bearings since you do have 130k miles on them. Also, don't forget to wrap your springs with vinyl tubing or wire wrap so you don't hear any noise.

You can get the GR-2s from eBay or www.taylorautomotive.com
OEM front strut mounts and OEM front strut bearings from an online Nissan dealer like http://www.nissandealer.com/jerry-rome/part_catalog.cgi (25% off using the promo code "maxima")

kchida

thanks for all the good info guys

I don't think changing the CV boot is time/cost effective. CV boot kit for each axle costs $30 plus misc. tools like the band tightener, new retaining rings, i might need a slide hammer and/or heavy rubber mallet, etc. I think $71 for a reman. CV axle isn't bad. I just question the durability of the thing.

Do you put the polyurethane tubing on the bottom and the top of the spring or just the bottom? Where is the best place to obtain this tubing?

I don't need an axle oil seal press do I? Can i just press it in with a suitable tool?

For those of you who have done this, what's the best way to pull the axle out of the transmission? slide hammer or plain ol yanking

thanks again

kchida

I agree, that does sound the most cost effective. However, I'm having trouble locating a reasonably priced CV boot kit w/ all the retaining rings and stuff. I need to finish all this in approx. 1 day and I've never done this before so I just want to make sure I fix it right the first time, on time. Just doing all this DIY repairing cause I can't afford to pay a mechanic. All University of California campuses raised their tuition to approx. $1950 from $1350 for a 3-month quarter. I'm pretty sick of living like a starving student (read bum).

Again, thanks for all your help guys! I really appreciate it!

vsamoylov

I got axles if you wat them. came from a car without abs though.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

what comes in your cv boot kit? $30 is 2x more than what I buy. Just wondering if I'm buying crap quality or missing parts. Mine has the boot, grease, and bands.

I use a 1 7/16" socket to get the axle nut off. I attach it to a breaker bar, then extend w/pipe to 4' cuz those nuts are tq'd to something like 150lb/ft.

You don't hafta remove the tie-rod (steering thingy). Just unhook the strut and pull the rotor out and push the axle in.

Give the axle a good yank outta the tranny. You might wanna pry the tranny/axle side w/a screwdriver to get started. Easiest w/1 person under, 1 person outside tuggiin. Btw, be sure to catch the tranny oil, or drain before starting.

diff oil seal ring... mine's still leaking despite changing it 3x. I used a large socket and tapped it in.

good luck

Jae

Dreizehn

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't worry about wrapping the coils if you are using the stock SE springs. The coils won't clank together like the aftermarket coils.

The bumpstop shouldn't need to be cut also because you aren't modifying the ride height. (STOCK SE springs)

The strut bearings though, I would definately replace those after 130K.

As far as getting the axle out, I've always just used the good ol tug method.

G20Flyer

I would get them from Raxles.

http://www.raxles.com/

G20Flyer

I would say that you might as well get remaned axles and change them out anyways becuase the labor will be just as much as to change the boot, so you might as well get a new axle out of it