SXN

.... helps guys

At idle, at a stop light/sign, it is its loudest. It sounds like a tapping, and reminds me of the sound of an engine running with low oil, kinda like valves. As I speed up, and the revs increase, the sound seems to diminish. I was wondering if my oil was low. When I got to where I was going, I checked out the dip stick...oil level was fine, but the car was warm. I checked it after it sat around for a while and cooled...still fine. I am getting no CEL, and I'm going to check the codes later to see if anything comes up.

The noise just started tonight, it didn't happen yesterday, day before etc., and I've never heard my car make this sound before. I've had an oil change within a couple hundred miles, and I've had all the according maintenance recently.

I asked a couple guys, and Optimus310 told me that GTR_Rider had this problem a while ago, and it was caused by a vacuum line, and that he solved the problem easily, even took video of the sound, etc. I tried to contact him over AIM, but he was away. anyone else remember this?

What do you guys think it could be? Please help me!....i don't want my car to die

SXN

sorry for the shameless bump...but my car is really not sounding good. any suggestions at all would be wonderful!

Nismotic

iTrader: (25)

ever since i changed my belts out i've been getting the same thing as well. Anything up w/the belts maybe?

SXN

i havent recently changed them, but they arent overly worn...i dont see how the belts could cause it

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

did you actually manually pull the ECU code even though the CEL light is not on? if you didn't, do that. there mite be a possible chance that you have 0304 ghost code like me.

possible signs of ghost 0304:
1. knocking sound at cold start.
2. after the car is warmed up, automatic on 3rd gear with OD off will lag between 3,000rpm.
3. noticible WHP difference between cold engine vs. high engine.

ghost 0304 will not give you a CEL.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

is the sound comming from the timing chain area? the alternator area?

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

sounds like the timing chain tensioner for sure. Easiest way to check is to get a stethescope(regular or mechanics) and put in right on the timing chain tensioner cover(black plastic plate on the passenger side of the motor right behind the motor mount). In this picture it is where you see the timing chain exposed. If you can hear it there that's what it is.

Pm me if you need a better picture, i've got lots of 'em from the water pump swap.

vsamoylov

what gas are u using? cause my engine used to knock just like that when i used cheap gas and when i put premium in it, it went away. i guess 2k2 engines are made to run on premium only.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

vsamoylov - i thought you had 01 engine. 2k2 use vq35

BTW all VQ's are made to be used with premium.






http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain

It might be the pully, i had same noise, dealer thought it was tensioner but it turned out to be a bad bearing in hte pully.

after 97 they fixed the tensioner prob so i dought it is that. have ur pully check since its right next to the tensioner cover.

InfamousG

I think i got the same problem, does it sound like ticking behind the intake Manifold on the right side near the IAC, only when stopped? i replaced my IAC thinking that was causing it but it wasnt, i now thinking that its the "EGR" but im not sure. If you figure this problem out let me know, i'll do the same.

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

I still have the problem, its the tensioner

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

it costs 200 to change or you can do it yourself. My dealer charged 200 and 2 free oil changes. Find a good dealer off nissan's webiste. find one that has won the customer satisfaction award.

SXN

alright, thanks guys. today im going to
A. pull the codes
B. take a listen to the engine
C. take some vid of the noise with my digi camera, maybe help me show you guys the sound.

someone told me the tensioner sound went away after a short while, but my sound keeps going for a bit longer. It is much worse on a cold engine though, and has sounded better since i've been garaging it.

thanks guys. additionally, with the norcal dyno meet coming up, do you thing its safe to dyno a car with this problem? The two main issues brought up were a bad tensioner, and a pulley bearing, would those be....deadly to my car

thanks a lot guys! btw, im an auto

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

any car that can that's drivable can be dyno, regardless with problems. of course, your dyno #s will not be accurate.

kinda like me, didn't have time to get the knock sensor in time. so i will be dyno-ing with ghost 0304. and my dyno # isn't gonna look pretty. most likely it'll run super rich.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

what kind of oil do you use, and oil filter. i read about some max's using thicker oil to solve the prob.

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

mobil 1 supersyn 5w/30 with nissan OEM oil filter, 91 octane.

never heard a single knock ever since, even though i still suspect my stoopid ghost 0304

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

opps sorry i was talking to SXN.


but for you, you should but hte your thread

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

his pulls should be accurate actually.
and, you MIGHT be a little rich, but it's the lack of timing advance from the bad KS that will hurt you.

SXN

i use the recomended weight of oil, but um i go to speede oil change (unless i do it myself) so the car isnt getting nissan oil filters (atleast i dont think , i should look into that )

i listened to the car today (and shot some vids im struggling with) and it is definately coming from the passanger side of the engine, from that aluminum case on the side of the engine, where the timing chain and tensioner are. This makes me naturally assume its the tensioner...but what would have caused this? why was it such an instant change?

my canon camera is being very annoying...but i will try to get those vids up asap

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

the plunger spring just "goes out" sometimes

SXN

so its still fine to drive and dyno then? the tensioner cant get any worse from here?

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

you're fine buddy. For the timing chain to actually fall off/out of place, the tensioner would have to fall off completely(not gonna happen). I'm not saying to ignore it, but you are good to go.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I redlined my car a few times with a bad tensioner. nothing wrong. But first, change your oil and try a nissan filter. It might lube the plunger better and the noise might stop. I read about some max's where the noise stopped after an oil cahnge. Did you check out hte link I posted?

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

hummm...that's wierd because mine always got louder when I changed the oil?

SXN

you mean the link you gave me when we talked earlier? Yes i did, and book marked it at that...gonna come in handy.

thanks cullen, good to know my car isnt doing that bad

is it possible that when you change the oil, it temporarily is dry so gets louder? but once the system re-lubes everything, it would go back to normal volume level? that would explain a temporary noise increase

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

if u don't wanna use synthetic just get regular valvoline 5W/30 + nissan filter, it should run fine within 3,000mi interval.

DON'T GET FRAM oil filter. cuz they suck

Dave B

It would make sense that it would take a while (10 minutes) for the tensioner and all the chains and gears inside the timing chain area to get fully lubed because there is very minimal oil movement in that area. It's just enough to put a thin film on everything. In colder climates, everything takes longer to warm up and get oiled.


Dave

ChrisA

I did mine myself. Its not that hard. If you're not confident doing it yourself and know someone that can help it may make it easier. Otherwise if someone will do it for $200 or less I'd just get it done and over with. I think I posted pics of mine when I did it, I know I took pics and may still have them. I just did it in October.

SXN

i will keep an eye out for those pics...if you want to repost them, be my guest

hey guys, any good places to host my vids so you can see them? if so, pleaaaase list the addy so i can upload them

anyone want me to e-mail them one/several of the vids? if so, list your e-mail, and i will send them your way, most likely tomorrow.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

i have a knocking or clicking sound from my engine bay on the passenger side as well, but only when cold...happened when I did an oil change from valvoline maxlife 10w30 with fram filter, to mobil 1 supersyn 10w30 with mobil 1 filter....dunno why an oil change would all of a sudden cause this to happen, it does however, go away after my cars warmed up! in either case, maybe it will go away with my next oil change!

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

im gonna try that professional bg 44k stuff as well and maybe get a full engine flush....will see if that solves the problem...

SXN

vid one, start up

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

vid two, sound going from right to left

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

vid three, further from the engine, general sound

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

vid four, focusing on the sound on the left side

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

right click save as......tell me what you think

izzydig

That's pretty loud. Sounds like your timing chain/s are slapping around in there. Slapping chains break easier. Broken timing chains means toasted engine.

I'd suggest you take off the tensioner cover plate, and see if you feel alot of slack on the chain. There should be no slack, or atleast nothing you could press easily with your fingers wedged in there. If you do feel plenty of slack, it could be either a bad tensioner or worn guide, and/or old and stretched chain. Tensioners are cheap and considerably easy to install. Feel the guide and see if it has worn through to metal. I would personally check the tensioner first, because the tensioner cover can easily be taken off and put back on with some RTV ($3). If you do feel slack, it may be the tensioner. The tensioner has a plunger, that SHOULD remain pressurized when the engine is off. If the plunger easily pushes into the tensioner, by moving the guide, then the seal is gone.

If it's not that, then there can be more to check. Oh yeah...disconnect the negative battery cable if you're corcerned about losing your fingers when you check these things.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I agree with izzydig, my noise never got that bad. I would get it fixed quick. If you're gonna do it, go ahead and oder hte kit. If not, then call the dealer and find one that will do it under 250.

CullenJ76

iTrader: (3)

sounds pretty loud, but I still say it's just the tensioner itself.

SXN

not what i wanted to hear

but better i deal with it... so with it being that bad of an issue, do you still think dynoing/running will damage the car?

What is my time frame for changing this tensioner? Is is an *emergency....immediate* thing, or just as soon as i can? What could have caused it to go from no noise, to this ammount of noise...so instantly?

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

i wouldnt take a chance with a clacking tensioner, once that chain goes, it takes everything with it, instead of potential $250 , it could be a few grand cuz itll destroy the valves from what ive read, change it ASAP

SXN

another bad thing i didnt want to hear about. i will try and update you guys

TooMAX

iTrader: (1)

What codec is needed to view those avi files? My media player is clueless.

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

if you have a high speed connection do a search for Ace codec megapack, it slike 50+ megabytes, itll run virtually any media file, havnet come across anyting i havent been able to run