Kyndig

Hey guys, I just bought a 99 Maxima SE Limited Edition (95K) and I'm working on getting her into shape. My SRS light flashes (.5s/.5s) and the CEL is on with codes 0304 (Knock) and 0201 (Ignition Signal Primary Circuit Fault). I plan to take the car to the dealership to check out the airbag (I tried to reset already) and I'm going to replace the Knock Sensor myself. The thing I can't figure out is this SLIP light.

Every once in a while when it's cold, I'll start the car and the TCS Off and SLIP lights will come on and stay on. The car will also run rough, with a rhythmic shudder while idling. The shuddering slowly goes away, but the lights stay on. It will do this for the next couple of starts then, for reasons I can't figure out, I'll start the car and everything will be fine. The SLIP and TCS Off lights will be off and no shudder.

Anyone have any ideas?

Mmmaxx

Ignition Signal Primary Circuit Fault
Is the same code I got when I had a broken coil pack. That would likely be what is causing the "shuddering" as it would cause a Mis-fire in one of the cylinders. Also when I had that code, if I drove with it for a few minute it would also eventually go away and fire normally. (I had to drive it, no choice at the time) luckily no other harm was done during the process.

dmplus

You may want to pose your TCS question in the 5th gen forums too since there will be far more owners in there that have TCS than 4th gen.

Kyndig

Did you take it into the dealership to have it fixed, or did you do the repair yourself? Do you mind if I ask how much it cost?

d_hammmer

If your Check engine light is on, the SLIP and TCS off lights may also go on.

I had the same situation. 02 01 and 03 04. A bad ignition coil and knock sensor. Once I replaced the bad coil, and reset the ECU, the check engine light, TCS off, and SLIP lights all went away.

I still have to replace the knock sensor, but I put a 470,000 ohm resister in for now until the spring weather arrives

Kyndig

That's good to hear. I called the dealership and they said that, if you replace one coil, you have to replace them all. They gave me a quote of $800. Did you have all of you coils replaced? Did you do the work yourself?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit

A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.

I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days.



0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.






Disreguard the fuel injector stuff.

Kyndig

Wow! This is absolutely perfect! I found directions on replacing the coil packs under the Spark Plug How-To and Brudaddy suggested jerryromenissan.com for parts in the Bad Coil thread. It looks like a relatively simple job now that I have such good instructions.

So anyway, thanks. I'll post more once I start working and let you guys know how it goes...

Mmmaxx

Yes I did bring it to the dealership to fix it, since they offer limited lifetime warranty on all parts they install (for the time I have the car) and no you don't have to replace them all if one goes, however 5 times out 10 the coil pack will throw a code, but it wont say which is the mis-firing cylinder to replace the correct one, this can somewhat easily be discovered by disconnecting each coil pack during the ruff idle, if you unplug one and the roughness gets rougher then its ok, if it doesn't get worse then thats the problem child. In my case since I went to the dealer they were more than reluctant to test that way, so instead of waiting even longer with it broken i had them replace all 6 and it cost me 100 per coil pack labor included.