FastTimes

I've been riding on a bad coil for a while now -- the dealer wants to charge me $800 to put a whole new pack in. He said replacing one coil takes too long and "I will just be back" to have more done unless I do the whole thing at once. I noticed after my last oil change that my MPG has dropped off *dramatically*. I used to get about 350 miles until the fuel light came on, now its down to less than 300.

Does a bad coil contribute to poor mileage? I keep waiting for the darn light to come on so they can find the bad coil so I don't have to replace the whole pack. Any suggestions?

-Mike

techie

Unless I'm misunderstanding the problem, which I could be, how can he say replacing one coil pack will take longer than replacing all 6? Find out which one it is and start with that one. If others fail, take care of them then, if they fail at all.

Black95Se

iTrader: (2)

the way i understand it is, since you are running on less than 6 cylinders, the engine has to work harder to maintain speed. Therefore, i would think gas milage would go down tho dont quote me on this. Also, tell your dealer to stick it up their *** cause 800 is crazy.

Ian

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Yup, plus the injector is still spitting fuel into the cylinder chamber with the bad coil causing the fuel to be unburned = lower MPG

deezo

iTrader: (3)

ARG!!!!!!

Go to another dealership and buy the coil. This really ****es me of because you get buy coil packs for a decent price and remove 2 screws to get in off the engine. Whoever told you this was an $800 job, go smack them.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

yeah, I have seen them for like $70 a piece. that is way cheaper. I mean, it can still add up if you have to do all 6, but you probably won't have to do that. Let it sputter or whatever it is doing, and then check your ECU for a code. It will probabaly tell you a misfire or something in one of the cylinders. I would change that one and then try it again. Keep on until it stops. (on the 1999's there seems to be only a problem with the top three coil packs, by the windshield.) and buy the Mitsibishi ones, not the Hanshin ones.

FastTimes

For the cost of replacing the coils, here is the results of some of my research: (btw, I live in Nothern VA)

I talked to ANOTHER dealer, and he CONFIRMED the same price as the other dealer. About $800 including labor and taxes.

I called an indy shop, and he told me it would cost $600 total. I called my family mechanic (out of the way location, but they are honest) and he confirmed the $600 to replace all the coils.

I asked everyone if they could find the bad coil, and they all said it wasn't easy if the car wasn't throwing a code. The all said it would be cost prohibitive to me to have them hunt for the bad coil. It's been like this for about 8 months, however the poor mileage is quite recent (after oil change and new air filter)


Does the above jive with everyone?

My family mech told me it might not even be a coil, some vacumn leak or something in the fuel line. I'm going to bring it in to him and let him search for the problem.

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

Talk about RIP OFF... Some online Nissan dealers give 25% off OEM parts so all 6 of them will only be about $300. Buy them and replace them YOURSELF!!! Look at the changing spark plugs link in the How To thread stickied at the top of the forum for directions You'll laugh at how easy it is and how much the stealership is charging for labor...

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

I just told you this..........they are cheaper...it does not jive!

Go to JerryRomeNissan.com and tell them that you are referred from the Maxima.org. They should give you like a 25% discount. Then, just read how-to, and do them yourself.!

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Aty this point FastTimes, don't talk to anyone else. Everyone is acting like you have to remove the engine to do this. That's just as bad as people getting quoted $1000 to fix a sticking sunroof.

dpassino

how can we tell which pack is bad. I heard something like, unplug one of the packs while the car is running and listen to how the car sounds... and then plug it back in and move to the next coil pack... 3 questions...

1) is this the right way to check... if so....

2) will it hurt the car in any way

3) do I actually have to drive with a coil pack disconnected to see if it is a bad one?

FastTimes

That is what I have been asking, but have not found a good answer. I've had 2 dealers and one indy tell me its very hard to find the bad coil. The other indy told me he wasn't sure and wanted to look at other things before the coil first.

BTW, if I do have a bad coil, should I notice it while driving? I only seem to notice the problem when at idle.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Disconnecting the coil packs one by one will make the engine run rough (which should be happening with FastTime's car due to having a bad coil). The other thing that may work is get a voltmeter and check the resistance of each coil. The highest reading should show the bad coil.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

I have read multiple people on .org that have done this:
1. Drive until you get that hesitation in your car
2. stop, check the ECU for codes
3. Figure out what the code is (others have said that it will say something like "misfire cyl 1")
4. replace that coil pack
5. repeat as necessary steps 1-4

See this thread....lots of good stuff:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=286287

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

FastTimes...........................at Ridgemont High...ha ha ha I am just clowning.

Really, I forgot to say that from what I have heard, it is only the top three(by the windshield) that really have to be replaced. However, they may not all need it.

dpassino

the reason i was asking is becuase my car seems sluggish, and when I am going 30-40mph in second in a steady acceleration climb I can hear ticking/pinging/clanking (very softly though). I was wondering if coil packs could cause this because I am not throwing any codes.

hotshtsr20

its going to be either 1,3 or 5. the bank of cylinders against the firewall.

do it yourself, it is beyond easy. you just need to buy one of those green handled screwdrivers with the 4 different tips in it. use the bigger side without the screwdriver attachment and it fits perfectly over the bolts that hold the coils in place. you could use an 8mm ratchet if you want instead. remove the 2 bolts that hold the coil in place, remove the coil pack (make sure to leave the screws in the coil pack, this makes it easier to remove the screws without much fishing) put the screws in the new coil pack, lower it into the hole, tighten the screws.

should take about 5 minutes.

to diagnose which cylinder it is, drive the crap out of the car until the check engine light turns on, then run the codes per the sticky in this part of the forum showing how to run the codes.

tell me which cylinder # it is giving you a code for, and i will tell you which one it is on the engine (it goes by firing order, not location, so cylinder #3, for example, is on the bank on the firewall, in the middle).

lefty

I can say that I had no clue in automechanics but I had to change my coil packs like you so I read up on how to do it.

I can change the coil pack faster than an oil change i some cases.

Easy to do.

K.

FastTimes

I have the EXACT same problem on acceleration! It almost sounds like there is something loose rattling around, then when you let off the accelerator, it goes away right?


BTW -- I'm thinking of buying a 6 pack of Mistsubishi's and taking it to a local garage and have them install them. How long should it take for them to do the whole thing? I'm NOT going to pay their rate/per coil, only the actual time

-M

hotshtsr20

uhh, does it sound like when you put gravel in a glass aquarium? kind of like light hail hitting some glass really rapidly?

if thats what it sounds like, its probably detonation. make sure youre running 91+ octane. check to make sure your MAF is clean (if you havent ever cleaned it, do so, use electrical contact cleaner and spray the shikaka out of it, let dry).

that sound is bad. like engine go boom boom bad.

dpassino

when you say clean the MAF, are you talking about that square boxy looking thing right before my frankencar midpipe? do I have to take the MAF apart or aynthing <--not so automechancially smart, but can follow directions.

but yes, rattling sound. not a happy sound. and car seems sluggish

could it be a knock sensor that I am hearing so much about? easy way to tell? how much to replace including labor ?

FastTimes

As I said before, I have the same problem (though its VERY intermittent, maybe once or twice a week do I notice it). Do you also have a problem with "engine bumps" while at red lights? I'm replacing all my coils this week, and I'll let you know how that goes.

hotshtsr20

round thing in the intake with the electrical connector in it.

knock sensor throws a code and automatically and retards timing. do you have a CEL?