Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

I just got the Max back after new clutch and 5 lb flywheel. I decided to take the risk of having less daily-drivability for increased performance.. and it seems to have paid off. The car is not any less driveable IMHO. The revs do not fall off that quickly (In fact they dont seem to fall off much quicker at all, possibly in part because I am using lightweight 5-50 synthetic oil?) Anyway-

Not to sound like I am braggin but I still feel that I can modulate the RPM rather easily for drag launching.
By far the biggest noticeable difference is that it revs up PDQ!

So just an FYI I thought I should add my perspective that its not like you are screwing up your car if you go for the 5 pound fly.. At least thats my initial .02

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

man..you mod way too fast for me...

btw... howcome you're use 5-50 synthetic oil?

Turbo95Max

iTrader: (25)

what brand is your flywheel? ive never heard of one that light...juss curious.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

i would guess unorthodox racing ?

maxfreak_98

Any idea how much labor is involved for just the flywheel install only?

maxima98vspec

that just proves that some of these people on the org over exagerate when it come to stuff like that.....talking about that they flywheel is tooo light for daily driving.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

No, it goes to show that people have different opinions. I don't know how he can think the rev's don't drop much faster. I have a 11lb flywheel and the rev drop and rise is a night and day difference. Neal drove my car once and noticed right away how fast the rev's drop.

This is why you can't trust what someone say's about suspensions set-up's and such....one persons firm ride is anothers bone jarring ride.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Good Point MikeI30... its personal preference working (But its also human nature to justify what people want or already bought.. )

But I gotta say that my car is not any more difficult to drive, even though I am babying it, dont want to change gears at high revs, and am engaging the clutch slowly.
Heres where I got the flywheel. Not sure about the amount of effort for flywheel install only, but I believe its enough of a pain in the butt to justify changing the clutch while the tranny is off.

http://www.stillen.com/sportscars_pr...nd=&subcat=206

And why do I use 5-50 synthetic oil? More POWER of course
Well, more power resulting from less engine friction! Same idea with the lightweight (less viscous) gear oil.

Unfortunately, I am kinda broke so I cant dyno the car to see just what a new clutch/fly has got gainwise for me. When discussing the UDP, STILLEN writes that "An average of 2.7 HP is gained from every pound lost off the crank shaft."

I wonder if that applies directly to flywheel? Not likely. Since someone said the stock fly was 18 lbs, I might have gained quite a few ponies if that was the case.

Max_Gator

What clutch/flywheel did you go with?

I need to replace my clutch on my 5th gen and am trying to determine what to go with.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Went with this clutch: It was highly recommended by another Maxima (5th gen) guy.

http://www.clutchnet.com/make/prodDesc.html

Performance "KEVLAR-KEVLAR PRO" Sprung Hub
Performance and Racing Pressure Plate

The link to the flywheel is in my previous post

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Hmmm I guess you should reserve your final opinion until you break in the clutch. And when you are sitting on a steep hill with 4 people in the car.

5w50 oil? Synthetic version will have good friction. But 50 weight is 50 weight. Don't know how a higher viscosity oil is going to help performance?

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Becuase you know it won't.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That's why we have handbrakes! Well, okay, they also work pretty good as parking brakes, too.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I personally don't have experience with these ultralight flywheels but I've read plenty of posts from DaveB complaining about his. Even with a parking brake, you are still going to have to slip the clutch pretty good

venompwr2

iTrader: (27)

stillen makes a 5lb flywheel dont they?

maxima98vspec

yea thanx for correcting me on that, that's what i was aiming at, that's y when you look for something like springs......try no to listen what people have to say about their suspensions, because at the ORG i notice alot of older people like over 30 and stuff and they are all really sensetive about their ride and comfort, but for me i don't really care that much just as long as its reasonable. I don't care if my car drops the rpms quick just as long as the car is safe to drive on the road and the most important thing to me is, if the car can be controlled then its fine with me......IMO.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

I was told that 5-50 was the least viscous oil that I could use safely. Zero weight would be pushing it I was told (for the weather conditions I might see on a track out here e.g. 95 degree weather). So in my understanding, the oil was a 5 weight and would suffice/ work between that range and 50 weight. I assumed it was like full synthetic oil magic that a less viscous oil could span that range. Someone correct me if I got this wrong. Should I go for like a 5-20 weight if that even exists.. and would that imply that it is less viscous? Confused ...

And I will update as the clutch gets broken in if it becomes more difficult... But I gotta admit (even though it makes me sound like a snot) that my attitude is such that even if it is difficult I will be able to adjust my driving style to accomodate w/o problems. But Im a cocky chap, I must admit!! Especially for knowing so little about mechanical stuff

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You are using 5W50 oil synthentic:

"5W" is the viscosity of the oil when the engine's oil is cold. So it will only act like a 5 for a short time. Low viscosity to allow the engine to get oil fast.
"50" is the viscosity of the oil when it's warm. 50 is pretty damned viscous. And 5-50 is a HUGE viscosity range. Massive additives must be put in this oil to make it flow like a 5 and then a 50. When these additives break down, it turns into sludge. Remember that. And poke the guy that told you to use this oil in the eye a few times

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

This is very interesting thread. Spainard. before you read let me state that I am amazed at all the hardcore mods and racing you do. You say your broke just after you spent at least $800 on these two. Also, after reading all this I was very suprised. I would have thought for sure that you were very mechanical with your various attempts at the intake and all the modding you've done, err, I guess thats all the modding your local shop has done. So all you do is race the thing? Thats one way to go about it I guess.

The oil issue is a very sensative one here. Every time I go into the local Gip and Lube the guy talks to me about switching weights. One of these times I'm just gonna tell him to shut the fxck up about his d@mn oil weights and to stick with his SHO. Does oil weight really make that much of a difference? Have people dyno'ed to prove anything? Also, is it harder on the engine? Increase sludge is definitely something I don't want.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for clearing this up Jeff, much appreciated. If I only had a nickel for every time I got bad advice Id be friggin wealthy.

Youve touched on a bit of a sensitive point Broaner-
I learned to drive cars a long time before I learned about the various venues for performance driving (In my case Solo2 - started last year, and HPDE events soon thereafter)- and I have been picking up as much of the science behind it as I can from the occaisonal opportunies that I had chatting with some more knowledgeable folks. I didnt have any mentors or friends in the driving world, so to speak...
As for modding, I started that about 8 months ago beginning with what I could do and stay "Stock" in autocross which wasnt much. As I got into track events I really wanted to up the power and performance so I went to a performance shop as well as a couple other shops (the PROFESSIONALS) to make sure things were being done right. I didnt want to find out that I screwed something up when I was entering turn 1 at Thunderhill at around 90 MPH.

The ironic thing is, even though I have had "professionals" work on my car I have been amazed at the lack of professionalism that some of them had. Ive had a clutch explode within 2 days of use. The second one that they replaced it with went out after about 20K miles because a piece of metal on the disk not even that close to any moving part apparently fatigued and broke free and messed up the clutch/pressure plate operation. The disk itself was fine. WTF is that all about. Since I have upgraded my rotors to slotted and cross drilled my hard braking ability has actually suffered. One @$$hole that couldnt even figure out how to install my RSB got ****ed off when I started reading the directions to him, walked over to my wheels and over-torqued the lugnuts right in front of me. Of course I didnt find out what a ***** he was until I brought my car into a different shop and they said I might have some bearing damage because of the lugnut over-torqueing.

Part of me wants to call BS on the idiot(s) to whom I paid my hard earned $$$ only to have them *** up my shiite worse than when I brought it in. These and their lack of ability might make me lose my life at a track event. GRRR daym right Im on a rant here!

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

i hope you're not refering to daniel... he seems very professional about lot of stuff.

btw i suggest check out matthel's chop shop and pick up some Amsoil synthetic oil. he's an official dealer for Amsoil for the norcal. if you have any trouble installing anything, bring it to him. he's done them all

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

No, not daniel- good guy there. Ill gladly take the referral to matthels shop- thanks man, a good mechanic is like gold!

happyricefob

iTrader: (7)

Dave B

I think someone mentioned I had a lightened flywheel. I don't, but I did have a UDP. I didn't like the way it made my car drive.

I'm surprised Spainard isn't seeing much difference in driveability because he's removed about 70% of the weight. Naturally it should be harder to keep the car from bogging on a hard launch. Maybe it will be more noticable once he can launch the car after clutch breakin.

As for gains in the 1/4 mile, he might see .05 or so assuming he can keep the rpms up in the first 60' or so. Most of the gains should be seen in road racing.

IMO, I'd be a little worried about the flywheel warping under extreme driving. Since so much material have been removed, I'd think the metal may be more unstable under quick heating and cooling.


Dave

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Spainard, I know I touched on a sensative point. I wasn't being negative; I have extreme respect for you love of extreme driving but you proved my point that the best mechanic is you. You don't think 20K is decent for the type of driving/racing you do. That is an interesting question Dave.