Hi.
99 Maxima. has warped rotors. 45,000 miles. Softly driven. Flat country.
If I get rid of the OE rotors and replace them with aftermarket rotors, will the warping be gone forever? That is:
is the specified thickness of the rotor too thin and the aftermarket ones will warp too?
or did Nissan have a big bad batch of rotors maybe made with the wrong material or heat treatment process ?????

What is the Best aftermarket brand for NOT WARPING (not stopping power)

Thanks

 

Use a more agressive pad to help stop warping rotors. Any aftermarket rotor should be fine to use. Slotted, X-Drilled ect can warp as well.

If you use a pad thats more agressive on your rotors, they tend to keep the surface clean, smooth and the surface area even as the pad wears down the rotor slightly more. The trade off is that you will go through rotors quicker but your brakes should stay smooth. For example, if rotors last for 3 sets of stock pads, lets say 120,000 miles of driving, then a more agressive pad may go through a rotor in 80,000 miles. It's really not a big trade off considering an aftermarket rotor is about 40 bucks from your local auto parts store.

I'm currently using Axxis Metal Master pads and my brakes are as smooth as silk.

 

Brakes newb here: How do I know if my rotors are warped?

Thanks!

 

you will sense a sort of vibration or pulsation in the brakes/pedal as you apply your brakes.

warped rotors suck!

 

what caused so many complaints on the 99s about warping?

whats a good brand
Raybestos?

 

Ive had my powerslot slotted rotors on for 4 years now and they still have a lot of life left in them...I would buy them again. I cant say if they stop any better but they have never been cut or warped.

 

the oe problem then must be a heat treatment issue by Nissan - as opposed to them being too thin?
If after market ones hold up better it would seem that it is not cause they are thivker, as there is no room for thicker discs?

Anyone use AIMCO brand (autozone) or NAPA, or Advance auto parts front rotors?

 

The thickness that you are talking about is not noticeable except with a very exact caliper or machine.

What you have to realize is that the reason your OEM rotors warped is because they had probably already been re-surfaced. This makes them slightly thinner, as it takes off the outer later to make them smooth again. However, while doing this, it makes the metal not able to withstand as much heat, so if you have to brake hard or hit a puddle after braking, it will warp very easily. This happened to me.

what njmaxseltd said about using more aggressive pads does seem to help. When I got my car, I tried to re-surface the rotors because they were kind of warped. Well, they warped again within about 1k miles. That sucks! I went and bought some OEM ones($20 each from a parts store) and some aggressive pads that are a little more expensive and brake better (EBC Greenstuff). I did that in April of last year, and I have had no problems. I brake pretty hard sometimes, and they are still fine (knock on wood...ha ha). That is what I would recommend that you do.

Most people I have seen on here recommend the Raybestos Quiet Stop brake pads. They are not too expensive...prolly like $40 or so. They are supposed to be the least amount of dust from a quality pad that provides a lot of stopping power too. You can order them from www.rockauto.com like I did( use my discount code.....

- You give this discount code: 8311393101 to friends, neighbors,
relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who
works on cars or trucks.
- When someone places an order at www.rockauto.com and enters
your discount code in the "How did you hear about us" line of
the shopping cart, he or she will receive an immediate 5%
discount on that order.
- The discount code expires on May 11, 2004; so don't wait!

**Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front
of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the
discount code.**

It may also be that the content of the metal from OEM cannot handle the heat after a while. However, I have found that you just cannot re-surface the stock ones with success. You will spend $30 on re-surfacing, and you will only spend $40 on the new rotors.

 

most of the auto shops seem to sell two brands.
-one brand is a house brand say for $20 or so (seems awful cheap to me!!!!)

- the other brand is a name brand like bendix ($44) or Raybestos $55.

some/mosy of the stores say their cheap "house brand" (which they stock) are just great. they fact that that is what they stock may say thats what Meinike etc use on your car since they won't wait a day or more to get the more expensive one. in others the counter man says stay clear of the cheap ones.

Anyone bought any bendix discs??/ this is just a daily driver car..